SR60-Mod part II
Jul 17, 2012 at 9:00 PM Post #3,136 of 3,353
Quote:
 
We're meaning to say that a modded magnum setup, even with, let's say, my pad mods (which eliminate treble overshoot), have some significant flaws BUT (and it's a big "but"), a modded magnum setup is a better value for the money. You should note that it will NOT, from a purely performance standpoint, outclass a 1k flagship, or even the $700 HE-500. There are fundamental physical limitations to dynamics that create issues with certain aspects of their performance. Extension, THD, and excess resonance features are a few. Having a planar wavefront has a great number of benefits in terms of audio performance, so when you get down to the nitty gritty, the physics cap the Magnum performance.
 
TL;DR: Modded Magnum setups are not poor performers, they are in fact great values for the money. Are they Summit-Fi? No, sadly, they are not.
 
Kojaku

Yes, I knew this. I just thought for a second that maybe someone found a lot better bang for the buck with the same near grado sound. I fully understand these things arent gunna be on par with other flagships. 
I know the grado sound in general has some flaws overall, but thats part of liking them. Currently gunna have them compliment my Denon D5ks, and after that a new DAC is in the way, after that maybe some fostexs, because im young, and have plenty to experience. 
 
Looks like Ill be looking at the Fostex t50ps before im dead though, gunna have to take a look at their sound signature too. Anyways, thanks for the info guys, looks like ill be taking some sr60s and magnums. Wood cups later down the road. 
 
Jul 27, 2012 at 9:42 PM Post #3,137 of 3,353
Ok. Then upgrade the pads (Which are the best?) Maybe I could to the reverse quarter mod and new pads. Double the comfort. Can you do that? And does the reverse quarter mod need a soldering kit thing? This thread was recommended by Kojaku and it says for SR60 but I have an SR80i that I want to mod. But he said to come here for help. So help me!
tongue_smile.gif

 
Jul 27, 2012 at 11:14 PM Post #3,138 of 3,353
Ok. Then upgrade the pads (Which are the best?) Maybe I could to the reverse quarter mod and new pads. Double the comfort. Can you do that? And does the reverse quarter mod need a soldering kit thing? This thread was recommended by Kojaku and it says for SR60 but I have an SR80i that I want to mod. But he said to come here for help. So help me!:tongue_smile:


My pad mod tutorial is on here somewhere. It results in complete elimination of sibilant features.

Kojaku
 
Jul 27, 2012 at 11:18 PM Post #3,139 of 3,353
Quote:
My pad mod tutorial is on here somewhere. It results in complete elimination of sibilant features.
Kojaku

For the pad mod dont you just take the original one off and put the new one on? I was just asking for suggestions on a good pair of pads. Also does the reverse quarter mod help the comfort? Or am I thinking wrong?
 
Jul 27, 2012 at 11:24 PM Post #3,140 of 3,353
For the pad mod dont you just take the original one off and put the new one on? I was just asking for suggestions on a good pair of pads. Also does the reverse quarter mod help the comfort? Or am I thinking wrong?


Not much honestly. My mod is for optimum sound with a tad bit of additional comfort. It's tr 11th post on this page:

http://www.head-fi.org/t/560806/sr60-mod-part-ii/1335#post_7673723

Kojaku
 
Jul 27, 2012 at 11:28 PM Post #3,141 of 3,353
Quote:
Not much honestly. My mod is for optimum sound with a tad bit of additional comfort. It's tr 11th post on this page:
http://www.head-fi.org/t/560806/sr60-mod-part-ii/1335#post_7673723
Kojaku

I dont really want to put a sock on my headphones haha. What would be the best cups/pads/bowls to use for the most comfort?
 
Jul 27, 2012 at 11:29 PM Post #3,142 of 3,353
Wolfetan44
 
People will be quite happy to help - but a lot of the info is already on this site - you're going to have to do some of the work yourself ( a little research).
 
Here's an article on pad choices : http://www.head-fi.org/a/grado-pad-choices-and-mods
 
Here's one on opening the cups : http://www.head-fi.org/a/how-to-open-your-grado-headphones
(BTW - I personally recommend using a hair-dryer and taking it nice and slow)
 
If you actually read through the opening pages of this thread, there is a lot of info in the first sections - that deal with the basics of Grado modding.
 
Once you have an idea of what you want to do - and need help/reassurance /pointers - then ask your questions and you'll get plenty of help.  From your posts so far, I get a sense of your excitement - but it might be better to do a little research first - then put down in order what you want to achieve - then you can go about it in a methodical manner.
 
BTW - Magnum's refer to the drivers (different to Grado - but made to fit Grado cups).  Info here : http://www.symphones.ca/magnum.htm
 
Jul 27, 2012 at 11:34 PM Post #3,143 of 3,353
Quote:
Wolfetan44
 
People will be quite happy to help - but a lot of the info is already on this site - you're going to have to do some of the work yourself ( a little research).
 
Here's an article on pad choices : http://www.head-fi.org/a/grado-pad-choices-and-mods
 
Here's one on opening the cups : http://www.head-fi.org/a/how-to-open-your-grado-headphones
(BTW - I personally recommend using a hair-dryer and taking it nice and slow)
 
If you actually read through the opening pages of this thread, there is a lot of info in the first sections - that deal with the basics of Grado modding.
 
Once you have an idea of what you want to do - and need help/reassurance /pointers - then ask your questions and you'll get plenty of help.  From your posts so far, I get a sense of your excitement - but it might be better to do a little research first - then put down in order what you want to achieve - then you can go about it in a methodical manner.
 
BTW - Magnum's refer to the drivers (different to Grado - but made to fit Grado cups).  Info here : http://www.symphones.ca/magnum.htm

Oh. Thanks so much! I will most likely get the G-Cush Pads as they look comfy and probably make the soundstage bigger. And I knew that the Magnums referred to the drivers (sarcasm haha.) Thanks alot! Cleared up a lot of questions! And holy crap the drivers are $400. No thanks. Too much. 
 
Jul 28, 2012 at 1:07 AM Post #3,144 of 3,353
Oh. Thanks so much! I will most likely get the G-Cush Pads as they look comfy and probably make the soundstage bigger. And I knew that the Magnums referred to the drivers (sarcasm haha.) Thanks alot! Cleared up a lot of questions! And holy crap the drivers are $400. No thanks. Too much. 


Actually the magnum drivers are around $120 if I remember correctly. The full upgrade was $400 (shells, rods and drivers). Also - be careful with the G Cush (jumbos). On lower end grados they reduce the bass, make the highs very "hot" or "sizzly" (but not in a good way IMO). They also do something wierd to the upper mids. Comfort and soundstage increase - but I'd rather sacrifice some of that for better sound quality.
 
Jul 28, 2012 at 2:12 AM Post #3,145 of 3,353
Quote:
Actually the magnum drivers are around $120 if I remember correctly. The full upgrade was $400 (shells, rods and drivers). Also - be careful with the G Cush (jumbos). On lower end grados they reduce the bass, make the highs very "hot" or "sizzly" (but not in a good way IMO). They also do something wierd to the upper mids. Comfort and soundstage increase - but I'd rather sacrifice some of that for better sound quality.

Oh. My mistake. I couldn't seem to find just the drivers for $120. Could you show me where to get them? And maybe I could quarter mod the pads it comes with? The pad topic you mentioned says it works. Or would you recommend the TTVJ Audio pads as the best ones to get?
 
Jul 28, 2012 at 2:13 AM Post #3,146 of 3,353
Quote:
Oh. My mistake. I couldn't seem to find just the drivers for $120. Could you show me where to get them? And maybe I could quarter mod the pads it comes with? The pad topic you mentioned says it works. Or would you recommend the TTVJ Audio pads as the best ones to get?

 
PM Rhydon, tell him you need drivers.
 
Tell him Chris sent you. I don't think that does anything but it's worth a try lol.
 
Jul 28, 2012 at 2:20 AM Post #3,147 of 3,353
Quote:
 
PM Rhydon, tell him you need drivers.
 
Tell him Chris sent you. I don't think that does anything but it's worth a try lol.

Ok thanks. But im not buying mods for my Grado's till I try them out and know that I like them. So I'll remember the name and go from there. Is it hard to install new drivers? 
 
Jul 28, 2012 at 3:23 AM Post #3,148 of 3,353
Quote:
Ok thanks. But im not buying mods for my Grado's till I try them out and know that I like them. So I'll remember the name and go from there. Is it hard to install new drivers? 

 
Not really, I would like to make a video on how to do it, but I don't think I could freely post it without violating Head-Fi rules.
 
You would need a pair of shells for them or at the very least an SR-325 and the aluminum rings that Symphones sells.
 
It's fairly easy, I could go over it step by step with you for free if you ever decide to take the plunge.
 
Jul 28, 2012 at 3:32 AM Post #3,149 of 3,353
Not really, I would like to make a video on how to do it, but I don't think I could freely post it without violating Head-Fi rules.

You would need a pair of shells for them or at the very least an SR-325 and the aluminum rings that Symphones sells.

It's fairly easy, I could go over it step by step with you for free if you ever decide to take the plunge.


I already made one on the partial liberation process. I'm sure Chris remembers. I should do one about actual liberation...it's a fair amount harder though.

Kojaku
 
Jul 28, 2012 at 3:50 AM Post #3,150 of 3,353
Quote:
I already made one on the partial liberation process. I'm sure Chris remembers. I should do one about actual liberation...it's a fair amount harder though.
Kojaku

 
Ok basically you heat a pot of water, hold your detached headphone cups sideways, the heat will cause the glue to loosen. This method avoids warping with the hairdryer method for those of us who are quite liberal with heat.
 
Twist and pull the two halves apart after you think they're hot enough.
 
You then need to get that driver out.. have the driver facing with the mesh up, insert a knife into the seam between driver and ring and go around, you'll basically break off the inner shell sometimes with this method, but they're useless to you anyway in the long run.
 

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