SR60-Mod part II
Jul 25, 2011 at 3:57 AM Post #766 of 3,353


Quote:
New thought: could I possibly have soldered the positive and negative wires to the wrong sides of the pad?  I wouldn't be surprised if I did as I was not as methodical as I could have been.  If it makes a difference I wouldn't feel too uneasy switching them around to double-check, the soldering process wasn't so hard (or so I thought).



Soldering to the wrong sides will result in no sound at all. Check the connections is all I can come up with, sorry :/
 
Jul 25, 2011 at 6:21 AM Post #768 of 3,353
After drilling some shells in Zebrawood and Cocobolo I set about making myself some Rosewood inners for my Jaben alus. I had to drill 3 rings each to give each inner the desired shape. I am sure you could do that a lot more easily with a lathe. Yet, I guess these will have to do.

 

 
Jul 25, 2011 at 6:31 AM Post #769 of 3,353
Those are looking REALLY good stratocaster. How do they sound now?
 
Looking at the finish on your cups it's totally beyond me why Jaben only sells that redish model
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Jul 25, 2011 at 6:52 AM Post #770 of 3,353


Quote:
The binding posts are a bit huge. Spades would work great... Or bare wire lol


I think it should be an easy concept. I'm running out the door to head for work.  I think you'll be able to get just a plain headphone cable to do the job.  I'll post a diagram in a few hours.
 

 
Quote:
Those are looking REALLY good stratocaster. How do they sound now?
 
Looking at the finish on your cups it's totally beyond me why Jaben only sells that redish model
tongue.gif

 
Yeah, Stratocaster is becoming the "master" with that drill press.  Nice work!!  Jaben only sells the reddish model because they attract the likes of Mr. McProgger. 
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Jul 25, 2011 at 7:24 AM Post #771 of 3,353
Great proyect, stratocaster!, what are them weight?, i see the desingh try to reduce it, very good. The weight of aluminium reduce the bass and increasse the details, i am very interesting in your listening impresions. Congratulations.
 
Greetings from Spain.
 
Jul 25, 2011 at 8:59 AM Post #772 of 3,353


Quote:
Soldering to the wrong sides will result in no sound at all. Check the connections is all I can come up with, sorry :/


I remember back in my car audio days, that if a connection (or polarity) were reversed, it could have had an impact on sound.  One speaker if wired "out of phase" could sound quite a bit different than the others.
 
 
 
Jul 25, 2011 at 9:01 AM Post #773 of 3,353


 
Quote:
      .
 
 
 
Cabillas, your picture intrigues me.  I love that combination look of the finely turned wooden inserts with the aluminum cups.  I love aluminum - it's recycleable.  However, when used alone, like in the SR-325 / SR-325i / SR-325is, I'm not such a fan of the sound.  The wooden inserts are needed.

 
Jul 25, 2011 at 10:00 AM Post #774 of 3,353
xaval,
 
I believe from your description, this is the type of cable that you need, correct?  If so, you could simply buy a headphone extenion cable and cut off the female end.  Then, open up the cable insulation.  Strip off the insulation on the tips of the wires - there should just be 3 wires present.  L, R and Ground / Negative.  You can then work with separate pieces of wire for your L +, R+, etc. and terminate them with spade connectors.  The two negative / Ground wires will have to be "summed" to the single ground wire on the cable that connects to the TRS connector.
 
This should be relatively easy, assuming you can get your hands on the materials.  I know in my situation, I could get my hands on the materials to make the cable in about 30 minutes, or over my typical lunch hour.  The process to build the necessary cable (with using shrink wrap to make things neat), shouldn't take longer than 30 - 45 minutes to build.
 
 
 

 
Jul 25, 2011 at 10:18 AM Post #775 of 3,353


Quote:
Cabillas, your picture intrigues me.  I love that combination look of the finely turned wooden inserts with the aluminum cups.  I love aluminum - it's recycleable.  However, when used alone, like in the SR-325 / SR-325i / SR-325is, I'm not such a fan of the sound.  The wooden inserts are needed.



 



very true ... tried the sr325i vs ms 2i ... loved the ms2i's sound and found the sr325i's too bright bordering on harsh, then compared the ms2 to the ms pro ... ms pro blew me away.... wood is the way to go !!!!!!!!! however i tested the ms pro to the sr225i's and found the ms pro to be so boring .... whyyy??? lol its going to be a tough choice when i decide to upgrade .... cabillas, as always, your work is crazy beautiful...simple yet mindblowingly sex
 
Jul 25, 2011 at 10:35 AM Post #776 of 3,353


Quote:
very true ... tried the sr325i vs ms 2i ... loved the ms2i's sound and found the sr325i's too bright bordering on harsh, then compared the ms2 to the ms pro ... ms pro blew me away.... wood is the way to go !!!!!!!!! however i tested the ms pro to the sr225i's and found the ms pro to be so boring .... whyyy??? lol its going to be a tough choice when i decide to upgrade .... cabillas, as always, your work is crazy beautiful...simple yet mindblowingly sex


This is the second time I've heard the SR225is compared favourably against the MS-Pro... the upgrade bug rears its ugly head. The MS-Pro is the best headphone I have heard so far, the soundstaging blew me away. I don't think $250 is ever going to be available to me any time soon though, (un)luckily. Shall be (not-so-blissfully) contented with my SR60
 
 
Jul 25, 2011 at 10:44 AM Post #777 of 3,353


Quote:
This is the second time I've heard the SR225is compared favourably against the MS-Pro... the upgrade bug rears its ugly head. The MS-Pro is the best headphone I have heard so far, the soundstaging blew me away. I don't think $250 is ever going to be available to me any time soon though, (un)luckily. Shall be (not-so-blissfully) contented with my SR60
 


im not saying that the sr225i is better than the mspro... the mspro is undouptedly better, you are right! soundstaging is better, sounds great, neutral, and the wood makes the sound soo much better than metal, just perfect in so many ways. but compared with the 225i's with its slightly brighter sound, harder bass and muchh more colored sound, and its awkward inaccuracy im sorry to say that i would choose the sr225i's for my music collection.. maybe even woody it =) .... and i am too (not so blissfully contented with my sr60i) hahaha that is the best way ive heard of discontented contentedness =)
 
 
Jul 25, 2011 at 11:25 AM Post #778 of 3,353
Hey Wayne, do you think the exact positioning of each conducting wire matters that much or would your new method be much much safer and still be accurate (for 225s)?

Still no cups btdubs.

Kojaku
 
Jul 25, 2011 at 11:58 AM Post #780 of 3,353


Quote:
xaval,
 
I believe from your description, this is the type of cable that you need, correct?  If so, you could simply buy a headphone extenion cable and cut off the female end.  Then, open up the cable insulation.  Strip off the insulation on the tips of the wires - there should just be 3 wires present.  L, R and Ground / Negative.  You can then work with separate pieces of wire for your L +, R+, etc. and terminate them with spade connectors.  The two negative / Ground wires will have to be "summed" to the single ground wire on the cable that connects to the TRS connector.
 
This should be relatively easy, assuming you can get your hands on the materials.  I know in my situation, I could get my hands on the materials to make the cable in about 30 minutes, or over my typical lunch hour.  The process to build the necessary cable (with using shrink wrap to make things neat), shouldn't take longer than 30 - 45 minutes to build.
 
 
 

wje, thanks for the helping hand - nice Visio work :)
As simple as this diagram must be, I got lost at the "summoning" process
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- Now you know why I've never posted anything here with me handling... tools.
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My perfect case scenario would be just buying a pre made cable (3 feet would be more than enough) and plug it in. No matter what I try on google nothing like your config comes up for sale!!!
 
 
 
 

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