SR60-Mod part II
Jul 24, 2011 at 4:20 PM Post #736 of 3,353

Maverickmonk

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I hear you there, If I had a patent for every idea that i woke up in the middle of the night to, and forgot by morning, I wouldn't have to worry about college loans, or headphone repairs! hahaha
 
I might be grabbing a pair of Sextetts to listen to until a cheap Grado driver becomes available. Won't be able to listen from my portable setup, but I'll be using closed cans for that anyway. Sextetts are supposed to be beautiful out of vintage receivers.
 
Jul 24, 2011 at 4:27 PM Post #737 of 3,353

KneelJung

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Quote:
Announcing the ownership and finishing of the Cebil cups from Martin Custom Audio.  Marty cut these cups for me based on some back and forth conversation so that I could achieve what I had a vision of.  In my case, I asked for Marty to leave them unfinished as I'd take on the final steps.  I utilized Minwax' Polyshades "Gloss Pecan" that provided a stain and poly in one.  I applied 2 coats to these cups.  The pecan provided just enough tone in the finish to add the slight color enhancement that I was looking for.
 

 
Those look absolutely amazing, I hope they sound as wow as they look.


 
 
 
Jul 24, 2011 at 5:07 PM Post #738 of 3,353

sharkz

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So I've just spent the past two hours making my own rod blocks with bent wire, non-rotating holders, a la what is being sold here (no relation, it's just interesting).
 
http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/564113/grado-alternative-headband-replacement-new-non-swivel-type-shipping-worldwide
 
It's basically been a waste of my time. It's just too hard to bend a coat hanger (harder than you think) while maintaining a proper gap and nice mirror image between the two sides. I will have to try something else to allow my cups more rotation I guess. Oh well.
 
Jul 24, 2011 at 5:11 PM Post #739 of 3,353

sysfail

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Quote:
So I've just spent the past two hours making my own rod blocks with bent wire, non-rotating holders, a la what is being sold here (no relation, it's just interesting).
 
http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/564113/grado-alternative-headband-replacement-new-non-swivel-type-shipping-worldwide
 
It's basically been a waste of my time. It's just too hard to bend a coat hanger (harder than you think) while maintaining a proper gap and nice mirror image between the two sides. I will have to try something else to allow my cups more rotation I guess. Oh well.


Wow those are some really cool looking headbands. Stop showing me these things! Now I want one.
frown.gif
Luckily he's in AUS, and I don't want to wait or pay for international shipping lol.
 
 
Jul 24, 2011 at 5:25 PM Post #740 of 3,353
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How genius!

So then we're assuming that the signal will still conduct through the solder to the voice coil wire?

Kojaku
 
Jul 24, 2011 at 6:28 PM Post #741 of 3,353
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I know there's an image of that particular soldering/cutting process ok the old thread....

Kojaku
 
Jul 24, 2011 at 6:51 PM Post #742 of 3,353

DigitalFreak

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Quote:
How genius!

So then we're assuming that the signal will still conduct through the solder to the voice coil wire?

Kojaku


You're just splicing two wires together with a soldering iron. It's done all the time on tons of audio gear.
 
 
Jul 24, 2011 at 7:21 PM Post #743 of 3,353

wje

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Quote:
in the case of liberating the drivers, i guess they are held on by superglue no? ...has anyone tried using acetone (present in nail polish remover) to remove the bonds.... wonder if dripping it in the cracks will liberate the driver..... but i would also be worried on the reaction of acetone if it actually touches the driver


Personally, I think isn't such a good idea.  The acetone is very much a liquid substance - and, getting to remain in a close area without it flowing all over the place would be hard.  I suspect more driver damage could occur when the acetone makes contact with it.
 
 
Jul 24, 2011 at 7:31 PM Post #744 of 3,353

joydivisi0n

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I'm about ready to do some soldering now that my wooden cups came in, but before I do I was wondering if I had to get the wires to come in contact with any part of the soldering tab in particular?  Perhaps the signal will conduct to the driver so long as the wire is touching the solder that is represented by the magenta and blue arrows in Wje's picture?  This is my first time tinkering with electronics so I'm not familiar with the technical aspects behind it.
 
Jul 24, 2011 at 7:50 PM Post #745 of 3,353

sharkz

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Personally, I think isn't such a good idea.  The acetone is very much a liquid substance - and, getting to remain in a close area without it flowing all over the place would be hard.  I suspect more driver damage could occur when the acetone makes contact with it.
 

 
I agree with this. Acetone tends to behave in peculiar ways around some materials, plastics included. If you got too much acetone on or around the driver, things could get "melty" (for lack of a better word). Numerous other methods, including Wayne's very ingenious most recent method have been posted that are easy routes to nicely liberated drivers.
 
 
 
Jul 24, 2011 at 7:53 PM Post #746 of 3,353
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25b24084_8405f9d9_105_0331.jpg


I knew it. Old JamesMcProgger did it to his sr80i awhile back. Seemed to work for him.

Kojaku
 
Jul 24, 2011 at 8:01 PM Post #748 of 3,353
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But if you're planning to do a headband mod, acetone/nail polish is a great way to soften up the super glue before pulling out the rod-blocks. Makes it super easy.
 
Kojaku
 
Jul 24, 2011 at 8:02 PM Post #749 of 3,353
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Quote:
OH GOD THAT JOINT IS AWFUL. TAKE IT AWAY!
 



As James himself said about it,
 
"It ain't pretty, but it works."
 
Kojaku
 
Jul 24, 2011 at 8:35 PM Post #750 of 3,353

Big Bill

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Quote:
 I think it might be safer to just clip the wire right at the point where it connects to the soldered area.  Then, remove some of the insulation on the ends of the wire that you just snipped from your cable.  



I've been using this method from day one, a little heat shrink covers the solder joint and nobodies the wiser!
cool.gif

 
 

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