So I am using 1Z firmware with my WM1A 3.02 J region and the Autumn+ installer for WM1Z/JP 3.02 does not detect my player. I get a "Connect the target Device to a computer with a USB Cable" when clicking next. Should I be using the WM1A/JP 3.02 for Autumn+?
Well I'm on my last bar of battery life. Does anyone know if there is some sort of "low battery" indication that should let me know when to charge, or should I just charge immediately when the battery indicator is on it's last bar?
The worse thing you can do for a li-ion battery is to do a full drain, and then charge. This is only done once in a long while, to re-calibrate the battery indicator.
The flashing battery indicator is just a warning to tell you that you are running critically low,. It is not a charge indicator to wait for, before you charge.
A full discharge/charge cause the most stress on the battery and will shorten battery life, as this results in high current charging, and high heat. For a drained/empty battery, the charge circuit will ask for the highest current it can get from the charger, and this will also stress out the charger.
The best thing for the battery is to do partial top up charges, from around 40% or higher remaining. No need to be exact, just be aware that full discharge is bad for the battery, and partial discharge/charge is good for the battery, and use this to guide you on charging habits.
There is an earlier post with details on battery charging that explains the reasoning behind the recommendations.
Actually that would be a good idea - something also with a flow chart to show region change > tuning mods and the differnet traits, then how to go back to stock etc
The worse thing you can do for a li-ion battery is to do a full drain, and then charge. This is only done once in a long while, to re-calibrate the battery indicator.
The flashing battery indicator is just a warning to tell you that you are running critically low,. It is not a charge indicator to wait for, before you charge.
A full discharge/charge cause the most stress on the battery and will shorten battery life, as this results in high current charging, and high heat. For a drained/empty battery, the charge circuit will ask for the highest current it can get from the charger, and this will also stress out the charger.
The best thing for the battery is to do partial top up charges, from around 40% or higher remaining. No need to be exact, just be aware that full discharge is bad for the battery, and partial discharge/charge is good for the battery, and use this to guide you on charging habits.
There is an earlier post with details on battery charging that explains the reasoning behind the recommendations.
Ah I see. Does this also apply to all of your other tuning mods? Even if I am using your nw switcher to switch my 1A to 1Z I have to use the 1A version of the tuning mods?
Ah I see. Does this also apply to all of your other tuning mods? Even if I am using your nw switcher to switch my 1A to 1Z I have to use the 1A version of the tuning mods?
I did look in to it at one point. Though I never moved forward. After the reset the battery performance improved to a place that it’s fine. But as I understand it any Sony service center can replace it. Also places like Music Sanctuary in Singapore will replace it. Don’t remember the cost, but I would guess around $100 or so. I was actually at one point going to buy the battery from the Sony service and hand it in with my Walkman to increase the turnaround speed at Music Sanctuary.
The worse thing you can do for a li-ion battery is to do a full drain, and then charge. This is only done once in a long while, to re-calibrate the battery indicator.
The flashing battery indicator is just a warning to tell you that you are running critically low,. It is not a charge indicator to wait for, before you charge.
A full discharge/charge cause the most stress on the battery and will shorten battery life, as this results in high current charging, and high heat. For a drained/empty battery, the charge circuit will ask for the highest current it can get from the charger, and this will also stress out the charger.
The best thing for the battery is to do partial top up charges, from around 40% or higher remaining. No need to be exact, just be aware that full discharge is bad for the battery, and partial discharge/charge is good for the battery, and use this to guide you on charging habits.
There is an earlier post with details on battery charging that explains the reasoning behind the recommendations.
That is exactly how I have understood it too. Simply top off your battery after 40% or slightly lower. Also it’s not necessary to reach the full 90% charge too. Then you can reset every couple of years if you feel the need to.
That is exactly how I have understood it too. Simply top off your battery after 40% or slightly lower. Also it’s not necessary to reach the full 90% charge too. Then you can reset every couple of years if you feel the need to.
In 3 1/2 years I’ve never turned the player off, never let it discharge fully or even to the indicator starts flashing and always had battery care enabled and I still get roughly the same battery time per charge as when new (about 20 hours play time with flac 16/44 and source direct and 7 days standby so charge every Sunday)
In 3 1/2 years I’ve never turned the player off, never let it discharge fully or even to the indicator starts flashing and always had battery care enabled and I still get roughly the same battery time per charge as when new (about 20 hours play time with flac 16/44 and source direct and 7 days standby so charge every Sunday)
I charge not that long after it goes to 1 bar but that is because I probably only play about 15 hours a week, the 20 hours have been the few times I’ve actively timed play time per charge and that has been till it flashes.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.