SONY NW-WM1Z / WM1A
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nanaholic

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Since in the Sony design the chassis acts as ground and that their specific engineering goal is to choose the metal with the least resistance, then there's really only one way to go after OFC copper and that is pure silver which has higher conductivity (ie less resistance) than copper - anything else would mean that Sony was pulling a fast one regarding how they designed their device. Now who wants to buy a a silver brick? :wink:
 
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http://www.phileweb.com/news/d-av/201708/04/41811.html

The new media management software "Music Center for PC" that will replace Media Go will be made available on the 29th this month. Supposedly they streamlined it even more for music management and will remove the video/photo management support that was in Media Go.

EDIT:

More info
http://av.watch.impress.co.jp/docs/news/1073442.html

Looks like the software will support network streaming, more codec support (Apple Lossless and MQA), and ASIO and WASPI output modes (have to see if it works with Sony DACs only like Media Go or with everything). Could be a good update.....
 
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siruspan

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My wm1a came in yesterday. Quick question, with headphones plugged in with 3,5mm jack, the whole socket wiggles a bit. Is this normal?


EDIT:

Nevermind, i've found that this question was already answered in this thread.and yes, it is normal in this player.
 
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nc8000

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My wm1a came in yesterday. Quick question, with headphones plugged in with 3,5mm jack, the whole socket wiggles a bit. Is this normal?


EDIT:

Nevermind, i've found that this question was already answered in this thread.and yes, it is normal in this player.

There is a little movement in the female jacks on my 1Z and that was also the case in my ZX2
 
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Whitigir

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IMG_1674.JPG
There is a little movement in the female jacks on my 1Z and that was also the case in my ZX2
It is normal for the 1Z and 1A sockets or even Zx2 to be wiggling and moving around. The sockets are locked mechanism with internal wires connecting into the main board. It was designed to flex and wiggling around to not break after years of usages. It is a much more reliable design than hard soldered on board like Opus, or Onkyo...devices.....A&K also uses the wires to connect into the board, but their wires are tiny and small in Ribbon style. Imagine howmuch wm1Z had gained by good wires, now what would A&k380 or SP1000 would sound like with the new wires

Some can flex more than others, and that is caused by the little boards behind the sockets of which connects to the internal wires. It depends on how deep the technicians push it in during soldering process. But they were all designed within tolerances
 
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gerelmx1986

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Yup normal, as @Whitigir said to prevent it breaking, like what happened to the socket on the desktop Amp of my friend in Germany after 20 years of plugging unplugging HPs it gave up
 
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hamhamhamsta

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Yup
 
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Yup normal, as @Whitigir said to prevent it breaking, like what happened to the socket on the desktop Amp of my friend in Germany after 20 years of plugging unplugging HPs it gave up
Honestly, I am not too sure about plugging and unplugging for 20 years....man, I don't even think Oganism part can even withstand that much without any degrading :D
 
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Ok, so I took the plunge, and got myself a Sony AW35. it's not too bad actually, but it's a far cry from what I wanted coming from the PHA3. The AW35 will go to my son (after I figure out what volume limit to set) and I'm still looking for a travel solution DAP where it sounds like the PHA3. Would this be the WM1A? (please don't tell me it's the 1Z. wallet cannot take any more punishment than the 1A).
 
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Ok, so I took the plunge, and got myself a Sony AW35. it's not too bad actually, but it's a far cry from what I wanted coming from the PHA3. The AW35 will go to my son (after I figure out what volume limit to set) and I'm still looking for a travel solution DAP where it sounds like the PHA3. Would this be the WM1A? (please don't tell me it's the 1Z. wallet cannot take any more punishment than the 1A).
I think you have just said it :)
 
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gerelmx1986

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Ok, so I took the plunge, and got myself a Sony AW35. it's not too bad actually, but it's a far cry from what I wanted coming from the PHA3. The AW35 will go to my son (after I figure out what volume limit to set) and I'm still looking for a travel solution DAP where it sounds like the PHA3. Would this be the WM1A? (please don't tell me it's the 1Z. wallet cannot take any more punishment than the 1A).
The WM1A feels heavy at times but it is fairly light, I never Heard the PHA-3 , but i had a ZX100 (which some say it sounds like the NW-A35).

The WM1A has a better sound quality in every aspect, is more warm sounding, better subbass extensión mids and highs are also better, is failrly neutral but not "dead-neutral" maybe you can find my review of my WM1A here
 
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pietcux

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Ok, so I took the plunge, and got myself a Sony AW35. it's not too bad actually, but it's a far cry from what I wanted coming from the PHA3. The AW35 will go to my son (after I figure out what volume limit to set) and I'm still looking for a travel solution DAP where it sounds like the PHA3. Would this be the WM1A? (please don't tell me it's the 1Z. wallet cannot take any more punishment than the 1A).
I own the A845, A15, ZX1 and WM1A. Each step in this DAP family was a step up soundwise and a decrease of hiss. The ZX1 has the warmest sound of the bunch, all others are rather neutral to me. My understanding is that the WM1Z sounds warmer again and now some people need colder cable to cure that. My advise is, stay cool and go get the WM1A. If it sounds too neutral get the pure copper Sony/Kimber or pure Kimber to warm things up again. Or simply use the build in sound control.
 
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