It's an on-the-go device. While I'm not saying it is lacking in the power department, battery life would clearly trump the ability to drive huge cans in that case. Pretty simple really.
If you want more power, hook it up to an amp or just get the DMP-Z1 and be done with it.
Are you saying that the sole criteria to decide if a divece is a design failure is the ability to drive hard to drive phones and nothing else matters and that you are the one who get to decide this ?
What you are stating here is an ALL or NOTHING design choice. That is not what is needed nor realistic. The WM1A/Z is under powered, most agree, and this greatly effects it's performance. There are many planars that present a low impedance load and can be driven REALISTICALLY with a suitable DAP or amp to an enjoyable volume level and still provide 8-10 hours of battery life. I for one do not expect 20+ hours of battery life (and the WM1A/Z does not provide that) but I do expect an adequate power level to enjoy listening with other than "hearing aid" sized headphones. The "magic in design" is to balance these competing priorities and deliver a device that fulfills the expectations of the target market.
Most agree? Who are these “most” who agree the 1Z/1A is underpowered? You can’t expect anyone on this thread to take you seriously as you sound like a buffoon?
Your like the guy asking for Italian food at sushi restaurant, just slightly confused? So sorry.
Most agree? Who are these “most” who agree the 1Z/1A is underpowered? You can’t expect anyone on this thread to take you seriously as you sound like a buffoon?
Your like the guy asking for Italian food at sushi restaurant, just slightly confused? So sorry.
1/ Yes, DSD can only be EQualized when using Analog EQ. You can buy an external EQ and and Amp. Now, you can EQ it
2/ No, DSD is the last processing step of any digital music. It is already processed. It can not be processed any further, and only need to pass through Low and High pass filters in order to not blow your eardrums or killing your Bats, dogs, animals around you when your speakers are turned on. In fact, improperly done, it can burn out your speakers which is not capable of reproducing such high frequencies.
it is kinda funny when you pay attention to #2 and rethink of High Resolution music. Simply put, Sony just toss that into the market to distinct themselves from Apple and their domination on digital music and MP3, which gives us all a boost into this modern market of high resolution streaming of the least FLAC quality and or higher, with audio and entertainment equipments capable of it everywhere’s. Thank you Sony, honestly, the 2000’ were very boring. Welcome to 2020 and welcome back Sony
Most agree? Who are these “most” who agree the 1Z/1A is underpowered? You can’t expect anyone on this thread to take you seriously as you sound like a buffoon?
Your like the guy asking for Italian food at sushi restaurant, just slightly confused? So sorry.
Are you saying that the sole criteria to decide if a divece is a design failure is the ability to drive hard to drive phones and nothing else matters and that you are the one who get to decide this ?
No one person in the entire thread......ever has had an issue with under-power? If you go to the MDR-Z1R thread there are even people who prefer the 1Z over the TA desktop due to the tone. I drive the MDR-Z7, the MDR-Z1R, IER-Z1R with no issues. Yes the TA is just ever so slightly better for the two full-size headphones I just mentioned but it’s marginal here. Look at the few in defense since your original “underpowered that most would agree” post. Everyone is defending their rigs. As you can see your barking up the wrong tree?
The headphones your trying to power are not in the design of the 1Z/1A. The posts mentioning prolonged battery life and the posts singling out specific 1Z/1A tone are happy. If you need an external amplifier it’s simply your choice as your headphones are not the intended goal.
Again you have never answered my question:
1) Who are these folks you speak of who say the DAPs are underpowered.
If you can’t answer that your simply waisting my time here.
OK. It is certainly not true that “most people” find the 1A and 1Z underpowered in general. Yes there are phones they can’t drive and yes there are daps with more power but they then sacrifice other tings like heat, battery life or don’t sound right to some people or have operating glitches that some don’t like. The ideal dap for every person on this earth does not exist, you pick the mix that best satisfies your use case and for you this is clearly not these Sony players
Yes you can as long as you have the battery save feature on. That will prevent the battery from over charging. However, if you really want to do it "right", you want to give some time in between to let your analog circuit turn off - like one day on, one day off. Over stressing your caps is not good either.
I went straight 100 hrs, then did normal listening for the other 400 hrs.
Interesting that you brought up the 'Battery Save' feature, I have that on my NW-A35 but I have not been able to find it in my WM1A, have I not been looking for it at the right place?
Interesting that you brought up the 'Battery Save' feature, I have that on my NW-A35 but I have not been able to find it in my WM1A, have I not been looking for it at the right place?
ok, on to more fun and relevant topics. It may be my imagination but I think I am hearing different sound quality in the way I power on:
1) Leave 4.4mm plug in the WM1z during power up - I hear mid and upper bass bloat that seems to go away after a few tracks.
2) Power up, then plug in - sounds normal.
Anyone else have the same experience? I normally follow #2 as a matter of practice. I wonder if my K-Mod has something to do with this. I already confirmed one K-Mod artifact - I hear a mild pop sound when I unplug while power is on.
Back in the days when the ipod ruled the DAP market (probably it had 60 mW pe channel ) no body whined it was underpowered to drive demanding Headphones. Yet people used amps stacked to drive the so said phones.
Now that there is no king that rules the DAP market , you whine like a crybaby, why not stack an amp to it and remain quiet?[/QUOTE]
ok, on to more fun and relevant topics. It may be my imagination but I think I am hearing different sound quality in the way I power on:
1) Leave 4.4mm plug in the WM1z during power up - I hear mid and upper bass bloat that seems to go away after a few tracks.
2) Power up, then plug in - sounds normal.
Anyone else have the same experience? I normally follow #2 as a matter of practice. I wonder if my K-Mod has something to do with this. I already confirmed one K-Mod artifact - I hear a mild pop sound when I unplug while power is on.
ok, on to more fun and relevant topics. It may be my imagination but I think I am hearing different sound quality in the way I power on:
1) Leave 4.4mm plug in the WM1z during power up - I hear mid and upper bass bloat that seems to go away after a few tracks.
2) Power up, then plug in - sounds normal.
Anyone else have the same experience? I normally follow #2 as a matter of practice. I wonder if my K-Mod has something to do with this. I already confirmed one K-Mod artifact - I hear a mild pop sound when I unplug while power is on.
I didn't notice anything different between 1 and 2 with my mod. I think K-mod did more things than just replaced wires inside so I can't say what very going on.
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