High-res is actually more like a marketing tool. I don’t even think the file formats is that important. The most important is how the record was done, and how good your system can connect and interface as a complete system to playback the music.
yes its all about interfacing and compatibility, but overall i feel that the high resolution formats and digital file types are a major improvement over lossy or even redbook
I'm thinking on setting ablaze this year's bonus on a pair of IEM to go with the WM1AZ. I've narrowed my options to the Andromeda and Shure SE-846. They'll both be able to use the balanced LQi cable I ordered. I just want to know everyone's impressions on both these pairings. I like BASS, and precision. I would like to able to count the amount of times a hi-hat vibrated after it was struck, I want to tell apart how many string of wires the snares of a snare drum has, what part of the bow is making contact with a violin strings...but I also want rumbling bass. Like, hurt-me-bass.
I know those two may sound like opposing traits, but from what I've gotten out of my SE-535 with the WM1AZ I know there's more to be had. During my research I'm leaning to believe the Andromeda will fit the bill nicely. But the catch is that I would have to pay 19% sales tax and several other taxes that puts me close to a 23% added cost for the Andromeda; that's like 250 USD on taxes alone; for a pair of headphones, which outside of this context is insane by any measure. And even if I find someone who would sell the Andromeda used and mailed it to my country; which I doubt, I'd sill have to pay sales tax because that's mandatory for our customs if the declared value is over 200 USD, and good luck finding someone who would declare the Andromeda for less than 200 USD.
That leaves me with the other option, the SE-846. Shure has a retailer here, they've already paid all their taxes, have the SE-846 in stock and I get the same price here than outside. Since I'm a "regular" customer of them, I'd get like 12% discount, that I can stretch to 15% if I pay in cash...I won't pay in cash; but I'll haggle, that's why I like going to an actual store and talk with a person. The thing is I'd have to buy the SE-846 blind, even with the retailer here since they don't audition IEMs. It boils down to getting the best possible deal, sound wise and...taxwise
Thus, I return to my original question. Those who have paired the WM1A with the Andromeda and SE-846, which has given the most detail and low end extension?
I'm thinking on setting ablaze this year's bonus on a pair of IEM to go with the WM1AZ. I've narrowed my options to the Andromeda and Shure SE-846. They'll both be able to use the balanced LQi cable I ordered. I just want to know everyone's impressions on both these pairings. I like BASS, and precision. I would like to able to count the amount of times a hi-hat vibrated after it was struck, I want to tell apart how many string of wires the snares of a snare drum has, what part of the bow is making contact with a violin strings...but I also want rumbling bass. Like, hurt-me-bass.
I know those two may sound like opposing traits, but from what I've gotten out of my SE-535 with the WM1AZ I know there's more to be had. During my research I'm leaning to believe the Andromeda will fit the bill nicely. But the catch is that I would have to pay 19% sales tax and several other taxes that puts me close to a 23% added cost for the Andromeda; that's like 250 USD on taxes alone; for a pair of headphones, which outside of this context is insane by any measure. And even if I find someone who would sell the Andromeda used and mailed it to my country; which I doubt, I'd sill have to pay sales tax because that's mandatory for our customs if the declared value is over 200 USD, and good luck finding someone who would declare the Andromeda for less than 200 USD.
That leaves me with the other option, the SE-846. Shure has a retailer here, they've already paid all their taxes, have the SE-846 in stock and I get the same price here than outside. Since I'm a "regular" customer of them, I'd get like 12% discount, that I can stretch to 15% if I pay in cash...I won't pay in cash; but I'll haggle, that's why I like going to an actual store and talk with a person. The thing is I'd have to buy the SE-846 blind, even with the retailer here since they don't audition IEMs. It boils down to getting the best possible deal, sound wise and...taxwise
Thus, I return to my original question. Those who have paired the WM1A with the Andromeda and SE-846, which has given the most detail and low end extension?
I'm thinking on setting ablaze this year's bonus on a pair of IEM to go with the WM1AZ. I've narrowed my options to the Andromeda and Shure SE-846. They'll both be able to use the balanced LQi cable I ordered. I just want to know everyone's impressions on both these pairings. I like BASS, and precision. I would like to able to count the amount of times a hi-hat vibrated after it was struck, I want to tell apart how many string of wires the snares of a snare drum has, what part of the bow is making contact with a violin strings...but I also want rumbling bass. Like, hurt-me-bass.
I know those two may sound like opposing traits, but from what I've gotten out of my SE-535 with the WM1AZ I know there's more to be had. During my research I'm leaning to believe the Andromeda will fit the bill nicely. But the catch is that I would have to pay 19% sales tax and several other taxes that puts me close to a 23% added cost for the Andromeda; that's like 250 USD on taxes alone; for a pair of headphones, which outside of this context is insane by any measure. And even if I find someone who would sell the Andromeda used and mailed it to my country; which I doubt, I'd sill have to pay sales tax because that's mandatory for our customs if the declared value is over 200 USD, and good luck finding someone who would declare the Andromeda for less than 200 USD.
That leaves me with the other option, the SE-846. Shure has a retailer here, they've already paid all their taxes, have the SE-846 in stock and I get the same price here than outside. Since I'm a "regular" customer of them, I'd get like 12% discount, that I can stretch to 15% if I pay in cash...I won't pay in cash; but I'll haggle, that's why I like going to an actual store and talk with a person. The thing is I'd have to buy the SE-846 blind, even with the retailer here since they don't audition IEMs. It boils down to getting the best possible deal, sound wise and...taxwise
Thus, I return to my original question. Those who have paired the WM1A with the Andromeda and SE-846, which has given the most detail and low end extension?
Your requirements... a DD type might fit you better like Vega or Acoustune HS1551CU(this is a warm iem but very sweet vocal).
Details will be not be as good as Andro but is not lacking either. Details, impact of lows DD type wins BA type.
I was thinking the same until I got my CustomArt Fibae ME. Truely amazing bass from BA. And it pairs nicely with the 4.4mm output of WM1Z (no EQ-ing was necessary).
That being said, they have smooth treble, so they may not suit all ears, since some prefer more extended treble, with all the dryness that comes with it (Andromeda is your thing then).
I was thinking the same until I got my CustomArt Fibae ME. Truely amazing bass from BA. And it pairs nicely with the 4.4mm output of WM1Z (no EQ-ing was necessary).
That being said, they have smooth treble, so they may not suit all ears, since some prefer more extended treble, with all the dryness that comes with it (Andromeda is your thing then).
Just received my used wm1a today, it took around 10 min to build database for 400 gb card and working fine, surprisingly the performance is fast and i like sonys ui very much, first device with sony OS, i wish for a search function but whatever.
I only got to try it with th900 and sounds amazing, using high gain between 90 and 100, certainly got enough juice for it compared to my zx2 and also sounds cleaner, using 3.5 trs (not sure how many hours previous owner put into it) but i will try to monitor changes in sound.
Also i got a japanese one so i used the tool to change region to E2, lil dissapointed it doesnt show arabic characters, dont know if other regions will or not, but i will call it a day and continue trying tomorrow.
What's your recommendation for connecting wm1a to home amplifier rig so that I can listen from my big speakers.
What sort of cable and if you can share the link to buy. with BCR-NWH10 I think I can use the original cable that came with it.. but thinking of I can just get cable to connect directly. Or should I just bite the bullet and get that dock? Your thought please?
What's your recommendation for connecting wm1a to home amplifier rig so that I can listen from my big speakers.
What sort of cable and if you can share the link to buy. with BCR-NWH10 I think I can use the original cable that came with it.. but thinking of I can just get cable to connect directly. Or should I just bite the bullet and get that dock? Your thought please?
Sadly there is no line level out. I have the Dock which is for adding the DAPs to a computer or Sony TA headphone amplifier and as an added bonus you can use the Dock to go USB to your outboard DAC......then to an amp. With the dongle you can add the DAPs as file players to an outboard DAC then to an amp or just to a computer; also to the TA amp.
It has been said in this thread that using the Dock has added processing which goes above the Dongle to improve the digital transfer either to your outboard DAC or to the TA headphone amp. I’m not sure if it improves connections between the DAPs and a computer?
But going 3.5mm miniplug to 2X RCA to another headphone amp (Asgard One) was not sounding right due to double amping. Though I do go mini 3.5mm to mini 3.5mm to the input at the front of my A/V receiver, just to play a song or two. It sounds OK, but your still double amping.
Your DAC in most cases is going to have a line level out. Many DAPs do have line level outs, but the Sony does not. In most cases we are always attempting to avoid two volume controls, thus double amping. Double amping almost always degrades the signal.
From what I have read your best getting the Dock and going digital USB out using a Audioquest Carbon or Audioquest Cinnamon upgrade USB cable to an outboard DAC then to your amp. I primarily use the Sony TA amp for headphones but could also go 1Z or 1A to the Sony TA headphone amp then go line out with the regular RCA cables to an amp. The TA headphone amp lets you choose between line level out or even volume controlled out, say if you wanted to go RCA to powered speakers and use the TA as your preamp. The expense in this situation is you have to purchase the TA headphone amp. But the upgrade is you get to use the next level upscaling the TA amp uses and past that upscaling along to your speaker amp.
I did 300+ on SE and with the right phones it sounded really great by the end, its like it kept sounding better and better
yes its all about interfacing and compatibility, but overall i feel that the high resolution formats and digital file types are a major improvement over lossy or even redbook
If these pixels are not in the center of the screen, Sony warranty may not cover. I would go to the store where you bought the unit from and ask for an exchange.
Thought I provide an update. Finally got the OK from the shop to swap for a new one. They had to wait for Sony though which took 4 days. I brought the unit in today for a check up before given the new one. The bright pixels were concentrated on the top edge of the screen. One spot was so bad that it was noticeable under normal brightness. Anyway I checked both of my mates's WM1A and WM1Z, I was surprised to find both unit showing some bright pixels too! But it wasn't as bad as my first unit.
Anyway my replacement unit looks alright even under normal screen brightness. I'm going to keep it that way for fear of uncovering something I cannot un-see.
Cheers for a good outcome. My CA Dorado also suffered a DOA and it was replaced (with an Atlas!). All happened within 2 weeks.
Thought I provide an update. Finally got the OK from the shop to swap for a new one. They had to wait for Sony though which took 4 days. I brought the unit in today for a check up before given the new one. The bright pixels were concentrated on the top edge of the screen. One spot was so bad that it was noticeable under normal brightness. Anyway I checked both of my mates's WM1A and WM1Z, I was surprised to find both unit showing some bright pixels too! But it wasn't as bad as my first unit.
Anyway my replacement unit looks alright even under normal screen brightness. I'm going to keep it that way for fear of uncovering something I cannot un-see.
Cheers for a good outcome. My CA Dorado also suffered a DOA and it was replaced (with an Atlas!). All happened within 2 weeks.
I used to use my 1Z with the screen brightness turned all the way down to save battery life. Though with the screen at that setting it actually starts to flicker a couple of times every time the screen would go black.
Must have been OCD, but I couldn’t stand the flickering. It simply seemed like almost a defect. So I turned the screen brightness to normal and the flickering is gone.
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