1. kid vic
    My 7506 cable is messed up at the headphone jack end (its my portable set) and I want to use a detachable mini-xlr cable (secure fit and exchangeable with my AKG's); how hard will it be to get a connector like this one to fit inside the shell? I saw this thread where someone did it with ATH-M50's which are fairly close in size so I know its possible.
  2. smokeweed
    Hey Sony V6 users, I had my V6s about 13 months and stupidly I dropped my tablet and bent the headphone jack, it cracked a tiny bit on it so 1 side didnt work. I saw this mod ages ago but never really had reason to try it until my ones broke. I got the same jack as HiFi1972 off ebay but I found one slightly cheaper and surprisingly in the UK. Next I got a soldering iron with some solder plus as stand for 6.99 also on ebay. Note its my first ever time soldering or modding headphones though I have done little wiring things in the past. Heres what I did -

    Open right headphone, cut wire just outside cup untangle from plastic things and pull out, remove wire cover and remove little rubber thing from hole.

    I then got some of that green builders sandpaper and rolled a small bit up then I sanded inside the hole where the wire comes through until it was loose enough for me to screw the jack in but tight enough for it to screw in securely, also I just used my finger to snap off the plastic tab closest to the hole but I left the other.

    I decided I would unsolder the old headphone wire and instead I used some speaker wire I had laying about, first I soldered the wires onto the jack and screwed it into place, then I desoldered and resoldered the new wires 1 by 1 as I took them off as to not get one in the wrong place, make sure the wires long enough to reach the driver without making it arkward but not so long as it might be harder to fit in.

    Tested at this point and yes it works!! Pop driver bit back onto cup and screw back on!! Good luck to anyone attempting this, I am a total novice but it was stupidly easy, and so much better than it was even before I think, sound quality is not compromised at all.






    Excuse the crappy image quality from my tablet and also my ghetto makeshift earpad for until my others arrive, too bad they have to come all the way from the far east and Im not spending 20 quid on the Beyerdynamic ones.
  3. kid vic
    Are you sure it wasn't the left side you did?
    You wouldn't happen to be able to answer my question posted above (3-pin mini-XLR)?
  4. smokeweed

    Indeed it was, my bad lol.

    Im not exactly a pro, this is the first time Ive ever done anything like this so maybe Im not the best person to ask but I would say it looks a bit big, theres a surprising amount of space inside the cups you can use but the mini xlr looks a bit thicker than the 3.5mm jack I used so I think you would have to remove a lot more if not all the plastic from the hole and you would need to screw it from the outside in if you get me. My one the screw was on the jack end so I put it inside and screwed it in so the hole was facing out the bottom.

    With the lenght of it Id say there would be no worries but Id be a bit worried having to do too much work to get it too fit nicely but I suppose it depends how much you willing to do and if you willing to potentially destroy them if you try it and it wont fit as it would be hard to put a smaller jack on after youve already made it too big.

    Personally I think the 3.5mm jack is better just as its a minimal amount of work to do and its pretty simple, I wouldnt be too happy about removing that entire bit of plastic around the hole or actually cutting the metal cups, what is the benefit of using mini XLR over 3.5mm anyway?
  5. kid vic
    Hahaha just read your username.
    For me the benefit is that I could use the same cables as all my AKG headphones and that they are solid when connected but easy to pull off (just press a button) as opposed to using a 3.5mm which is just friction. I'm considering making it inline instead (i.e. about an inch from the driver as part of the cord).
  6. smokeweed
    Haha, ah I see that makes sense, Ive just got to say I was worried about the same thing (plug pulling out easily) but its actually really tight and secure. I think Im more likely to pull the plug out of my device or pull the headphones right off my head before it actually comes out of the headphones themselves. I think it could be as this plug is so small it must be made to quite a degree of accuracy and the size of it theres not really not room for it to be loose lol. I guess Ill see how it fares over time but I cant see it becoming loose anytime soon.
    Either way good luck and post up a few pics of how it goes, doing it inline would definitely be a lot easier though I wasnt too sure about soldering those headphone wires, plenty of people say its easy but I didnt want to risk ruining my  part if it didnt work. For putting it actually in it Id want to look at the jack and really work out properly how I was going to go at it, then theres a possibility of getting it and it being too big but at least you havent already destroyed your headphones. Remember the 5 Ps lol. Good luck.
  7. kid vic
    Yeah, I should really get on ordering the parts hahaha :S
  8. tumtuter
    Wow! nicely done it looks like an original manufacturer design.
    txoutback likes this.
  9. txoutback
    I would like to add a detachable connector to my 7506s.
    Does it matter if I use a 4-conductor vs 3-conductor jack on 7506s?
  10. cdsa35000
    Not really, only the last (3rd) ring must be soldered/shorted to the sleeve to form the long COMMON/GROUND as the 3 pole jack:
    Why the hassle? there're some 3-pole female connector construction, that have the sleeve conductor precisely positioned in the middle between the last ring and sleeve of the 4-pole jack, than no sound will occur.


    txoutback likes this.
  11. clarence35
    After doing the detachable cable mod to my MDR-V6's, I noticed that my headphones have markedly more microphonics than with the original coiled cable.  I'm sure that a lot of it has to do with the cable I'm using, but was wondering if anyone else experienced the same.
    txoutback likes this.
  12. cdsa35000
    The screw on connector makes direct contact to the cup housing, put a rubber ring and/or rubber socket over the connector to dampen direct contact to housing.
    The original cable use a rubber socket in that housing.
    txoutback likes this.
  13. clarence35
    That makes sense to me, thanks for the advice. Unfortunately, I used a slim jack which doesn't have enough mounting depth to attach a rubber ring or socket without taking a dremel the earcup plastic. I'll have to see if I can live with the microphonics or else consider modifying the earcup.
  14. heavyarms
    Will this one work?
  15. sonymdr750611
    Trying to post my own MDR 7506 thread but so far I've been blocked. Please unblock me, I think people will like my design and work.

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