SONY MDR-V6 REMOVABLE CABLE MOD DISCLAIMER: Try it at your own risk Components Required: 3.5 mm Female Chassis Mount (Slimmest One available) Soldering Iron, solder, etc Dremel Tool Thin Wires IMPORTANT POINTS TO NOTE: The width of the cup is very less, hence it is important to get the Slimmest female jack The portion from where cable comes out has a plastic mount, which needs to be sawed off otherwise the jack screw nut would not come out properly. Also Also, the cup is metallic however the portion that holds the earpads is plastic. STEP BY STEP INSTRUCTIONS: Remove the earpads. Remove the four Philips screw carefully. You will see three cables; red, green and copper colored. They have to be connected in the following order. The cables inside MDR-V6 are different type which has insulation fiber like material on them which make it difficult to solder. When I tried first time. I cut the three colored wire at sufficient length, so that I had enough to work with. But when I soldered them they had gotten tangled and didn’t work. So I de-soldered the Red and Green cable off the driver magnet and instead used thin insulated copper cables. This worked J Next thing to note is that the cups in MDR-v6 are made of metal however the flat part which holds the headband is made of plastic. To explain I have made a rough sketch: Now the plastic portion of plastic cup goes inside the metal cup and hence adding additional thickness and hence making it difficult for the female chassis to be mounted on the inside of the metal cup. Hence, with help of Dremel tool you will have to grind out the excess plastic from the inside and outside of the metal cups for the chassis mount to sit tightly on the inside of the cups. When I tried first time, I tried to place the 3.5 mm chassis on the inside cup and then tried to solder which was difficult. The best way to do is to use a little additional wire and solder the connections on chassis mount before securing them to the inside of the cups. Lastly, since the cups are not deep enough, there is a possibility that the driver magnet touch the chassis mount and hence resulting in no sound. When I first completed soldering I was able to listen to the sound with the driver open but as soon as I closed it there was no sound. An easy work around that would be to place insulation tape on the driver so that there is no contact between the metal portion of the chassis and the driver magnet. This was a success. END PRODUCT: This is my first attempt and it doesn’t look as bad as the picture, trust me. The scratches seen were made by the rough handling of Dremel tool. I more confident now and next time the finish should be much better . By the way it sounds great and just waiting for the velour pads to arrive to test them properly.