Sony MDR-1RBT mods, equalization, impressions and so on.
Aug 2, 2013 at 11:13 PM Thread Starter Post #1 of 67

Ashade

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Somebody might kill me for this but I didn´t find a thread specifically about these headphones and I thought I could compile all that we find interesting about how to optimize the sound on these and share our impressions with other bluetooth devices. Some people were commenting about these on the MDR-1R but they have nothing to do, so it looked to me like a natural thing to open a new thread specifically about these.
 
I got them like three days ago and to be honest, I was pretty disappointed in the beginning coming from the M-100 in my search for a more neutral headphone. Far from neutral I found a very high mid bass boost on them and some weird sounding on vocals. After reviewing carefully Tyll review, he mentioned that boost but more closely a drop around 300Hz, so I decided to play with a 31 band equalizer on OSX and I found that these cans can sound much better than they initially do (to be honest, I don´t leave without EQ´ing any of my headphones).
 
This is the image of the frequency response from the review on innerfidelity (I hope Tyll doesn´t get mad on me for posting it here):
 

 
Below, the equalization I used on AU Lab for OSX. I´m pretty sure it can be improved, thus looking for your comments.
 

 
By the way, I replace the original pads with the velour ones for the Beyerdynamic EDT250, because I no longer stand the pleader ones for more than 10 or 15min, (another reason why I tend to buy headphones which either come in velour, either allow the pads to be replaced). They don´t fit all the way in due to the weird shaped of the holder but they do the job pretty well.
 

 
 

 
You are welcome to comment whatever you want (even that you don´t like the headphones =) ). I was planning to try a dynamat mod on these but I didn´t open them yet. I don´t know if it will even happen. We will see. 
 
Aug 3, 2013 at 10:43 PM Post #3 of 67
I heard the same mid-bass boost, and also this really closed in effect that was somewhat distracting.  I use way too many headphones in any given week to mess around with special EQ's so this one won't get much use.  The other things I like about the line apply to this model(comfort, aesthetic's, comfort), except the sound.  The thing that mildly bugs me about this model is the use of plastic on the ear cups where the others use metal(probably just plastic backed).  I assume they do this to allow BT reception, but you'd think there would be a way around it.  I have my own issues with headphones in these price ranges using plastic and protein leather, rather than metal and real leather or other pad materials. The metal skin on the standard and NC models at least made an effort to combat this.  In the end, I think my dislike for most BT headphones won out here.  The sound likely has a lot to do with what they are able to pump through a BT connection(especially without AptX).  Because of this, my comments might be a little biased.  This sounds better than most BT headphones.  I'm told AptX will be in the next model, so I am hopeful that resolves most of the audio issues I have.    
 
Aug 4, 2013 at 7:37 AM Post #4 of 67
Since I am new to this, this is my approach.
 
http://www10.pic-upload.de/04.08.13/egev1lnyfa2r.jpg
 
I know, I know...it's only the iTunes-EQ, but as you can see I just registered recently (complete newbie to sound-enthusiasm starting yesterday) and played a little with the settings. My idea was to level out the differences between the 1Rs and the 1RBTs. I am aware that this is not correct in terms of absolute differences, nonetheless I am just asking if I am heading towards the right direction or do I completely miss the point/idea of the EQ?
 
Cheers
 
Aug 4, 2013 at 9:29 PM Post #5 of 67
Sorryp, I got a new puppy and it´s a lot of satisfaction but a lot of work at the same time, and being honest, I am not finding nor will find a lot of time to listen to my new toy this month... O_o
 
The truth is that the sound on these is somewhat congested, but by EQ´ing them you can get a really good sounding out of them.
 
Regarding the construction, it is true that I miss some metallic parts on these but I think plastic is somewhat underestimated. I really like plastic, and even inside "plastic" there´s tons of different materials. There are good quality plastics and bad quality plastics with a lot of differences in their mechanical properties. I think you can notice the quality on the materials chosen for this application and the experience on the design of their parts. Durability is something that only time can demonstrate (outside their internal testing), and even metallic parts fail at some point. I can say that I find myself a lover of plastic and that I found the implementations on the nexus 10 and the new nexus 7 certainly correct. I think these headphones are not top notch but they are not bad when compared with other headphones material-wise talking.
 

 
Aug 5, 2013 at 8:41 PM Post #6 of 67
@ Ashade: Can you do me a favor? I want to take off the the RBT's earpads as well, but I have no idea of how to do it. Can you maybe post a pic or two to show how this is properly done without breaking anything? I am just overcautious and afraid to break anything. Thanks in advance.
 
Aug 6, 2013 at 10:33 AM Post #7 of 67
Quote:
@ Ashade: Can you do me a favor? I want to take off the the RBT's earpads as well, but I have no idea of how to do it. Can you maybe post a pic or two to show how this is properly done without breaking anything? I am just overcautious and afraid to break anything. Thanks in advance.

 
No problem, I'll do it.
 
Aug 6, 2013 at 7:50 PM Post #9 of 67
Thanks, get it now. So the originals are just wrapped around the cans and I just pull them off? No spatula, nothing? It's that simple? :D
 
I am asking since Andrew_WOT states in his dynamat mod thread that you ought to "Remove earpad by inserting thin plastic spatula or something similar between earpad and cup rim at 9 or 3 o'clock. The earpads are hold in place on plastic clips, you need to unlock just one by pressing on it and the rest comes off easily. Just be careful and don't break the clips. This picture should help to visualize where the pressure should be applied".
 
Just don't want to screw this up...
 
Aug 6, 2013 at 8:30 PM Post #10 of 67
Quote:
Thanks, get it now. So the originals are just wrapped around the cans and I just pull them off? No spatula, nothing? It's that simple? :D
 
I am asking since Andrew_WOT states in his dynamat mod thread that you ought to "Remove earpad by inserting thin plastic spatula or something similar between earpad and cup rim at 9 or 3 o'clock. The earpads are hold in place on plastic clips, you need to unlock just one by pressing on it and the rest comes off easily. Just be careful and don't break the clips. This picture should help to visualize where the pressure should be applied".
 
Just don't want to screw this up...

I did not see any plastic clips.  As you rotate the earpad, pull out slightly.  It should just come right off.  
 
Aug 8, 2013 at 12:37 PM Post #11 of 67
Just did the dynamat mod on my 1RBTs. Attached some photos for those of you that are interested in doing the same or just want to see the interior of an 1RBT (info: I used 2x52mm diameter of dynamat). FYI: I have a ton of dynamat to spare now, in case you are interested and want it for an attractive price, please pm me so we can work something out. Since I live in Germany I think this is mostly attractive to guys from Europe, nonetheless feel free to contact me no matter where you come from. Cheers!
 








 

 
Aug 8, 2013 at 1:02 PM Post #12 of 67
 
 
Just did the dynamat mod on my 1RBTs. Attached some photos for those of you that are interested in doing the same or just want to see the interior of an 1RBT (info: I used 2x52mm diameter of dynamat). FYI: I have a ton of dynamat to spare now, in case you are interested and want it for an attractive price, please pm me so we can work something out. Since I live in Germany I think this is mostly attractive to guys from Europe, nonetheless feel free to contact me no matter where you come from. Cheers!
 








 

 


 
 
Dude, you are the man... Would you say you see any improvement on the sound??
 
The only thing I would say is that with all those PCB and batteries in the middle, I would try as well before them instead of after, I mean just after the driver. I think that would make more sense in these cans. That might help with that void around the 300 Hz.
 
I might try it if I get some time during the weekend.
 
Aug 8, 2013 at 1:32 PM Post #13 of 67
Quote:
 
 

 
 
Dude, you are the man... Would you say you see any improvement on the sound??
 
The only thing I would say is that with all those PCB and batteries in the middle, I would try as well before them instead of after, I mean just after the driver. I think that would make more sense in these cans. That might help with that void around the 300 Hz.
 
I might try it if I get some time during the weekend.


Not sure about the sound, it's like 2hrs ago. Remember, I am no sound expert, so my judgement is not the most profound, maybe I can tell you later, I will give this mod a try at least for a week or so. No big difference though as far as I can tell by now. What I did in fact notice and makes me a little nervous are some dropouts while listening via bluetooth. It is reasonable that this is due to the metal sheet, although I considered the bluetooth antennas to be somewhere else, specifically here:
 

 
Maybe I was wrong with that assumption? Can anybody tell by looking at the pics of the PCBs if some sort of antenna is actually placed on the PCB itself and not where I assumed it/them to be, that would explain the dropouts. Assuming the metal sheets are causing them, removing the sheets but leaving the bitumen in place would solve that problem, right? What does the metal sheet do to the sound in the first place? But again, this is 2hrs after doing the mod, maybe I am just being hypercritical right now.
 
Aug 8, 2013 at 1:57 PM Post #14 of 67
Ups...after reading Ashade's comments and giving it a thought, I think I messed up the mod. :D
 
I misunderstood the part which states that I should place the dynamat right behind the driver. Since I didn't see any free space due to the PCB and all that electronics I attached the dynamat on the cups instead. Guess that was wrong. Any comments/any help on that?
 
Aug 8, 2013 at 8:24 PM Post #15 of 67
Quote:
Ups...after reading Ashade's comments and giving it a thought, I think I messed up the mod. :D
 
I misunderstood the part which states that I should place the dynamat right behind the driver. Since I didn't see any free space due to the PCB and all that electronics I attached the dynamat on the cups instead. Guess that was wrong. Any comments/any help on that?

 
Are the PCB and battery actually IN the speaker chamber, or are they outside it?  
 

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