Solder
Apr 28, 2017 at 8:14 AM Thread Starter Post #1 of 14

mourip

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Hi,

I am making IC's with the new Duelund 20ga hookup wire to replace my already nice Belden IC's. These Duelund ICs continue to amaze. I am nearing the end of my roll of ancient silver "Wonder Solder" and am now considering a solder purchase.

Any suggestions? Does silver content help? Do I need rosin core and why? Is cleanup an issue with rosin core? What is a good diameter for general audio DIY?

Thanks!

Paul
 
Apr 28, 2017 at 8:29 PM Post #2 of 14
Wonder Solder! Is that still sold? I remember it from Percy Audio's catalog. Are you using the DCA20GA (tinned copper)?

Regarding your choice of solder, rosin core makes things a lot easier. With cables, you don't need to cleanup. With PCBs, a little bit of isopropyl alcohol, a toothbrush and a few paper towels do the trick. Some people don't bother cleaning up the PCB, it will still work fine 99% of the time, but I think most of us in the audio space are a little OCD and like things neat and tidy :wink:

A little bit of silver can't hurt, but if you're on a budget it isn't necessary. Kester 60/40 or 63/37 will do what you need. I personally like Cardas Quadeutectic Solder, it has a low melting point and a small amount of copper and silver, along with tin and lead, very easy to work with. I've gone through several rolls. Lead-free solders aren't fun to work with, require more trial and error for a good joint., but Cardas makes Tri-Eutectic if you prefer to go lead free.

0.032" for diameter or thereabouts.
 
Apr 28, 2017 at 10:24 PM Post #3 of 14
Wonder Solder! Is that still sold? I remember it from Percy Audio's catalog. Are you using the DCA20GA (tinned copper)?

Regarding your choice of solder, rosin core makes things a lot easier. With cables, you don't need to cleanup. With PCBs, a little bit of isopropyl alcohol, a toothbrush and a few paper towels do the trick. Some people don't bother cleaning up the PCB, it will still work fine 99% of the time, but I think most of us in the audio space are a little OCD and like things neat and tidy :wink:

A little bit of silver can't hurt, but if you're on a budget it isn't necessary. Kester 60/40 or 63/37 will do what you need. I personally like Cardas Quadeutectic Solder, it has a low melting point and a small amount of copper and silver, along with tin and lead, very easy to work with. I've gone through several rolls. Lead-free solders aren't fun to work with, require more trial and error for a good joint., but Cardas makes Tri-Eutectic if you prefer to go lead free.

0.032" for diameter or thereabouts.

I am using the DCA20GA for interconnects and the 16GA for speaker cables. Wonderful stuff and pretty cheap

Yup. Bought it from Michael Percy probably 15 years ago. A little goes a long way. I might buy some Kester for non-signal path work and then try the Cardas. I also hear that Dayton makes some with silver that is easy to work with.

Thanks for the reply!
 
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May 2, 2017 at 10:06 AM Post #6 of 14
We've gotta come up with new acronyms, because IC = interconnect and IC = integrated circuit are confusing sometimes lol. Makes me read the whole post to know which we are talking about :p
 
May 2, 2017 at 11:13 AM Post #7 of 14
A little bit of silver can't hurt, but if you're on a budget it isn't necessary. Kester 60/40 or 63/37 will do what you need. I personally like Cardas Quadeutectic Solder, it has a low melting point and a small amount of copper and silver, along with tin and lead, very easy to work with. I've gone through several rolls. Lead-free solders aren't fun to work with, require more trial and error for a good joint., but Cardas makes Tri-Eutectic if you prefer to go lead free.

0.032" for diameter or thereabouts.

+1 on the Cardas Quad Eutectic. Very easy to work with, good flux formulation, low melting point, makes solid reliable solder joints an easy task as does the pricier WBT-0800, another personal favorite.

On the other hand, I really dread using the 2 lead-free solders I have on hand. Both the Mundorf Supreme, and Oyaide SS-47 are a PIA to use in comparison to the leaded WBT and Cardas.
 
May 2, 2017 at 11:43 AM Post #8 of 14
We've gotta come up with new acronyms, because IC = interconnect and IC = integrated circuit are confusing sometimes lol. Makes me read the whole post to know which we are talking about :p

I would say that on Head-Fi 90% of the time IC means interconnect.

Besides posts here are so informative who wouldn't read the whole thing :)

Any suggestions for alternative nomenclature?
 
May 2, 2017 at 4:33 PM Post #9 of 14
I wish Interconnects was IX, or maybe ICN, because while it's true that head-fi predominantly uses Interconnect, the rest of society uses Integrated Circuit lol
 
May 2, 2017 at 5:28 PM Post #10 of 14
when I look for solder and see lead, I feel like when someone offers me some drugs. I know I shouldn't, I know its bad for me, but I have that voice inside me saying how much better it would be if I went for it.
all the solder stuff I've tried without any lead in it have an annoyingly high melting point and tend to look like crap once cold(not that it matters inside a plug).

I don't know about regulation in every countries, and I don't expect too many of you guys to eat solder as a hobby, but the consensus is that there is no safe level of lead exposure. which is always reassuring given all the sources of lead around us even to this day.
 
May 3, 2017 at 10:42 PM Post #11 of 14
If using lead solder, just put a fan or ventilator blowing away from you. Keep one window open and the sort. If you're not face deep soldering for more than a few hours a day, or go through a roll of solder a week, you should be okay.
The regulations are put in place to stop mass production that contaminates in large scales. We're just a bunch of enthusiasts, nowhere near as big as a production line.
 
May 4, 2017 at 1:44 AM Post #12 of 14
Yeah I use lead because the lead free solder is rubbish. It doesn't flow particularly well and is generally annoying to use. I go through maybe one roll of solder every two years so im not too worried about lead exposure, but if you solder a ton then it may be worth investing in some lead free and then a nice sldering iron that can meet it easily
 
May 4, 2017 at 10:50 PM Post #13 of 14
With lead you just have to follow some important precautions, like washing your hands before eating or drinking and not soldering around things you plan on eating or drinking :wink:

I've read that since soldering is usually done at a temperatures around 380-400 C and significant lead fume only comes at temperatures above 450 C, so exposure via inhalation is typically insignificant.

You can read a bit more about it here: https://diamondenv.wordpress.com/2011/01/06/lead-exposure-during-soldering/
 
May 11, 2017 at 8:41 PM Post #14 of 14
Hmm, I like lead more than "crack" solder.

A good amount of rosin core flux also helps to keep an interconnect operating well due to its need to be connected and disconnected. Also its length and lack of large movement damping can cause the solder joints to resonance fracture.

AKA dont be afraid to really connect the two by using heat. The pretty wood Duelund RCA's would look even cooler with a char unless you have an ability to keep the heat at just the joint AKA a big soldering/material to material welding device.

Edit: Capacitors as well as other circuit devices soften back to a more original state with heat. Flux can and does absorb through leads to replace lost electrolyte. Titanium or Tungsten... is the exception, excessive heat (Theat/TCool) pretty much returns em to factory fresh...strange material eh..they do grow some fuzz though :/ and

Heatsinks often just make a mess.
Edit: They slow things down and spread heat out of the conductive metal. This makes most plastics utterly melt into discombobulation...hmm, could be interesting :)
 
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