Smyth Research Realiser A16
post-15390696
Post #7,756 of 8,533

You Gene

100+ Head-Fier
Joined
Oct 16, 2019
Messages
141
Reaction score
48
Location
Brussels, Belgium
Joined
Oct 16, 2019
Location
Brussels, Belgium
Posts
141
Likes
48
Age
68
Would recommend these as first step.
Thank you. I also think I have no other choice but to do a reset.

In the meantime, I received an answer from James Smyth : that was a quick "question/answer" on 31st December 2019 ! He told me to buy a new SD card and try again (it did not work). He wanted me to let him know how I get on, which I did.

I made a copy of the message to Gilles (on holidays) since I bought the A16 from him.

Happy New Year and God bless the Realiser A16 !!!
 
Last edited:
     Share This Post       
post-15390883
Post #7,757 of 8,533

esimms86

100+ Head-Fier
Joined
Oct 3, 2013
Messages
451
Reaction score
154
Joined
Oct 3, 2013
Posts
451
Likes
154
It would be nice to receive a general(not individual) shipping update and thank you message on Kickstarter from Smyth Research. It would be a thoughtful way to close out the year(and decade). Just my two cents.
 
     Share This Post       
post-15391036
Post #7,759 of 8,533

webbj

New Head-Fier
Joined
Apr 19, 2014
Messages
4
Reaction score
10
Joined
Apr 19, 2014
Posts
4
Likes
10
Not quite sure.

When we say "Songs of the 80s", should songs released in 1990 be included?

Hmmm...
 
     Share This Post       
post-15391122
Post #7,760 of 8,533

phoenixdogfan

500+ Head-Fier
Joined
Feb 26, 2015
Messages
598
Reaction score
132
Joined
Feb 26, 2015
Posts
598
Likes
132
What's the status on the A16 being able to be controlled with third party remotes like the Logitech Harmony Elite or the Sevenugs Smart Remote? Are either of these remotes fully functional with the A16 (to include thing like manLoud and PRIR capture) or even able to do the basics? Anyone know? If not, is this even on the Smyths' radar?
 
     Share This Post       
post-15391159
Post #7,761 of 8,533

Got the Shakes

500+ Head-Fier
Joined
Jan 20, 2013
Messages
625
Reaction score
199
Location
Michigan
Joined
Jan 20, 2013
Location
Michigan
Posts
625
Likes
199
What's the status on the A16 being able to be controlled with third party remotes like the Logitech Harmony Elite or the Sevenugs Smart Remote? Are either of these remotes fully functional with the A16 (to include thing like manLoud and PRIR capture) or even able to do the basics? Anyone know? If not, is this even on the Smyths' radar?
I have a Harmony hub being delivered soon and will probably get a chance to set it up by the end of the weekend. I’ll let you know how it goes.
 
     Share This Post       
post-15391293
Post #7,762 of 8,533

phoenixdogfan

500+ Head-Fier
Joined
Feb 26, 2015
Messages
598
Reaction score
132
Joined
Feb 26, 2015
Posts
598
Likes
132
The decade will still run a year...
A common misconception that the decade/century/millenium ends in the year whose final digit is "9". Rather ends in the year whose final digit is "0". What Stephen Hawking might have called a "boundary condition error."
 
     Share This Post       
post-15391302
Post #7,763 of 8,533

VandyMan

500+ Head-Fier
Joined
Jan 28, 2011
Messages
941
Reaction score
405
Location
Brooklyn
Joined
Jan 28, 2011
Location
Brooklyn
Posts
941
Likes
405
The decade will still run a year...
Perhaps you do things differently in Germany, but tonight is the end of decade in the US. Anyway, his point about the Smyth's sending a year-end update is a good one, IMO.
 
     Share This Post       
post-15391318
Post #7,764 of 8,533

Fox1977

100+ Head-Fier
Joined
Jan 21, 2015
Messages
424
Reaction score
248
Location
Tours, France
Joined
Jan 21, 2015
Location
Tours, France
Posts
424
Likes
248
Perhaps you do things differently in Germany, but tonight is the end of decade in the US. Anyway, his point about the Smyth's sending a year-end update is a good one, IMO.
It’s not about the country. We commonly say that we are entering a new decade because we go from 201x to 202x but technically as stated above, the new decade will start on January, 1st 2021 for one simple reason : there was no year 0. It went from 1 BC to 1 AD. So the first decade was from year 1 to year 10 included and the second decade started at the beginning of year 11.
We usually say differently for the symbol of the digit change.
 
     Share This Post       
  • Like
Reactions: audiohobbit
post-15391326
Post #7,765 of 8,533

VandyMan

500+ Head-Fier
Joined
Jan 28, 2011
Messages
941
Reaction score
405
Location
Brooklyn
Joined
Jan 28, 2011
Location
Brooklyn
Posts
941
Likes
405
This is a silly thing to argue about, but you are wrong. :wink: Look it up! You don't have your first birthday on the day you are born and the world did start on day 1. Year 1 was after 365 days had passed. The new decade starts tomorrow. Jan 1, 2010 to Dec 31, 2019 is ten years. There is a reason we call it the 2010s.

Edit: BTW, there is actually no official definition of this, but what I described is the most common usage (as you will see if you check any newspaper or news site today -- they are filled with end of decade articles).
 
Last edited:
     Share This Post       
post-15391397
Post #7,767 of 8,533

Dixter

500+ Head-Fier
Joined
Dec 21, 2011
Messages
855
Reaction score
154
Joined
Dec 21, 2011
Posts
855
Likes
154
where I come from we celebrate the closing of the decade for an entire year... better than just one day :)
 
     Share This Post       
post-15391410
Post #7,768 of 8,533

dsperber

500+ Head-Fier
Joined
Jul 27, 2005
Messages
571
Reaction score
174
Joined
Jul 27, 2005
Posts
571
Likes
174
Back to A16-related matters...

Last night I decided to perform the HT magnetic sensor calibration process described in the .091 manual with Section 13 Appendix C (pages 99-100). Previously I had performed the thermal calibration process described in the 1.80 Release Notes, but actually had never performed the "magnetic sensor calibration".

(1) On page 99 of the manual the instructions 1-5 describe how to set up for and then to perform this magnetic sensor calibration. There is a picture 13.1 which I don't understand. The last two lines on the picture are red. Are they supposed to appear after calibration is complete, or before you press ENTER to start, or when? They certainly were not on my screen, which only showed the first three blue lines.

(2) There are some descriptions at the bottom of page 99 and top of page 100 which define the two settings you can change, which affect (a) the accuracy of the calibration, and (b) how relatively long the calibration process will take:

Magnetic error
Can be set to LOW or MED.
If set to MED the calibration routine will be less accurate but will take a shorter time to complete.
If set to LOW the calibration routine will be more accurate but will take a longer time to complete.

Magnetic error type
Can be set to HARD or HARD+SOFT
If set to HARD the calibration will be less accurate but will take a shorter time to complete.
If set to HARD+SOFT the calibration will be more accurate but will take a longer time to complete

Since this was the first time I'd done the calibration I decided I wanted it to be "most accurate", and wasn't concerned if it took a bit longer to complete. Of course I had no real idea from the short description exactly HOW MUCH MORE ACCURATE or HOW MUCH LONGER IT WOULD TAKE, but it is important to note that the factory default values are MED (less accurate and shorter) and HARD (again, less accurate and shorter). I decided to change both of these, to LOW (more accurate and longer) as well as HARD+SOFT (again, more accurate and longer). Then I followed instruction 3 (i.e. pressed ENTER to begin the calibration process). As described, the word "calibrating" now appeared in red on the third line (which shows "calibrate magnetics" in picture 13.1), the light on top of the HT turned orange-red, and I began to "tumble the headphones 360 degrees in all orientations" as described by instruction 4.

I continued "tumbling" my headphones for what probably was 30 minutes, because I never did see what was expected as described in instruction 5: Calibration is complete when the ‘calibrating’ word disappears in the display, and the LED on the head-top turns GREEN . This NEVER HAPPENED FOR ME, even after 30 minutes.

So I finally hit BACK (to terminate the too-long calibration, as described in a yellow highlight at the end of Appendix C), and was surprised to see the green LED on the HT. I honestly don't know if the magnetic calibration actually completed or not, or precisely what state my intertial/magnetic condition the HT is in. For sure everything seemed "normal" when I began listening, and I could turn my head left and right and the sound field de-rotated as I expected. So everything seems no different than it was before I started this eventually aborted magnetic calibration process, and so I'm not unhappy. But I certainly am confused.

Has anybody else performed this magnetic calibration and also changed the two accuracy/duration option settings as I did, hoping for more accurate calibration? If so, did your calibration process complete? If so, how long did the whole thing take? More than 30 minutes, or less? Did your HT LED eventually turn green as expected to indicate that the calibration process was now complete?

What are those two red lines at the bottom of Figure 13.1? When do those appear, if they still do (or have they been eliminated by a recent firmware update)?

(3) Instruction7 is, to me, ambiguous and confusing:

Step 7. Finally, wearing the headphones, navigate to the Azimuth angles display of any Preset Speaker Map, look directly at the centre speaker, and push the button on top of the head-top to set zero degrees for the magnetic sensor.

What is the specially described "Azimuth angles display" of any Preset Speaker Map? It certainly isn't the main Speaker Map (which doesn't show "Azimuth angles") is it, or is it? It certainly isn't Figure 13.1 which follows instruction 7 on this page. Where in the .091 manual is this "Azimuth angles display" (of any Preset Speaker Map) shown for example, so I would know how to "navigate to it"? How do I get it on the screen?

Also, instruction 7 says "look directly at the centre speaker". What does that mean? Where the center speaker is supposed to be relative to where I'm sitting in the physical room I'm currently sitting in? At the center speaker in the "Azimuth angles display" which is presumably on my A16 screen right now, meaning at a spot on the A16 screen? Where the center speaker was in the PRIR listening room I'm implicitly using? Sit in front of the TV and look at the center of it? Look at the display screen of the A16? Look at the center speaker box on the display screen of the Speaker Map, which really means look at the A16 screen? What? And why?

When I want to begin a listening session I am pretty much supposed to get comfortable, look straight ahead at the TV and push the button on top of the HT, to reset to +0 azimuth. So why have instruction 7 say to do it after the completion of this special magnetic calibration process, if I'm only going to redo its effect whenever I actually use the A16 to listen?

Please help.


If someone has gone through this magnetic calibration completely and successfully, can you please clear up my above described confusion? How long did it take? Did you change the settings or not? What is intended by instruction7?

Thanks.
 
Last edited:
     Share This Post       
post-15391424
Post #7,769 of 8,533

PROTIEUS

New Head-Fier
Joined
Dec 11, 2019
Messages
21
Reaction score
0
Location
NG166GX
Joined
Dec 11, 2019
Location
NG166GX
Posts
21
Likes
0
@sander99 gave already some suggestions. And I agree that lending active studio loudspeakers with a person to help to set it up. It might be wise to try to get it done in one go. So if financially feasible have a 7.1 done in one go.
Do not forget to bring as much carpets, plants and blankets into your room as possible. Reducing echoes is so helpful to establish a clear sound. Sander99 and I did put a lot of effort in bringing many diffusers and carpets I have in my studio into the room where we did the measurements. So the sound quality I have for 2.0 is wow!
I still need to understand better the bass management. Maybe a pro could do a skype call with me?

Alternatively, is there any chance for you to visit a home cinema shop in your town / vicinity? I guess if possible it would be best to wait until the video files for the asynchronous PRIR measurement method are available on the Smyth website. Because this would make things much easier and quicker.
Thanks for reply.
Will probley just wait on
asynchronous PRIR measurement method .
Any thing to read about this while i wait.. getting carpets and speakers unfortunately inpossible for me.

asynchronous PRIR measurement method . Sounds good to me. Ty
 
     Share This Post       
post-15391497
Post #7,770 of 8,533

PROTIEUS

New Head-Fier
Joined
Dec 11, 2019
Messages
21
Reaction score
0
Location
NG166GX
Joined
Dec 11, 2019
Location
NG166GX
Posts
21
Likes
0
What's the status on the A16 being able to be controlled with third party remotes like the Logitech Harmony Elite or the Sevenugs Smart Remote? Are either of these remotes fully functional with the A16 (to include thing like manLoud and PRIR capture) or even able to do the basics? Anyone know? If not, is this even on the Smyths' radar?
My harmony remote did not pick up. The IR. On the a16 remote so i could not get the a16 remote working.with harmony
If any one can get it working. Shout out. Ty
 
Last edited:
     Share This Post       

Users Who Are Viewing This Thread (Users: 2, Guests: 9)

Top