- Oct 3, 2013
You may just be one of the luckiest people on this thread. By all rights, you should have 2 PRIRs made with the same system in two different rooms. That and a low backer number make you the envy of many of us here. All you need to do is calibrate your headphones, connect your laptop or disc player and settle back into A16 heaven!This is the right question, and it’s entirely possible things may be easier than we are talking right now. A8 owners can chime in, but one of the major changes to the new version was to simplify the PRIR process.
I don’t know if they kept both, but they took my measurements at two separate shows. If memory serves, they had a 7.1.4 setup of Yamahas, and they didn’t have to run a Blu-Ray to generate the test sweeps (at least, I don’t remember them ejecting the content shown on screen, just going back to the menu). What I remember well is that there was a measurement done with all speakers while facing forward, looking right, and looking left. That’s a lot of data... might be able to upsample more speaker positions (or at least a center speaker). Also, in the case of measuring one or two speaker locations at a time, instead of moving speakers, it might be easier to just change the placement of the head-tracker and direction you face.
Another thing I thought I heard, but might not remember correctly after this time, was that the Realiser itself would be able to generate the sine sweeps? EDIT: And if calibration tones don’t come from the Realiser’s ample storage banks, then realistically the only way to measure a 16-channel Ambisonics setup (where would you even find one of those set up??? I’d like to meet the guy who has a 22.214.171.124 setup in his home, and shake his hand) is with a file played from a computer (laptop?) over USB.
It behooves Smyth to create a relatively step-by-step measurement process. There’s no way an employee will be able to sit on the phone with everyone that wants a walkthrough, so the Smyth’s best bet will to be to publish a good walkthrough along with collecting and updating a FAQ.
For those that want, this is the “detailed specs” PDF that may need to be updated, but it is what they have on their front page, and most of it should still be accurate: