Singxer SU-1 Owners
Mar 16, 2017 at 1:18 PM Post #76 of 869
  I don't see your point. It is obvious when you modding your stuff you lose warranty. It is also obvious XMOS has to be supplied by 5V.
What you expected??

 
@rafabro and @winders - can we please *NOT* destroy this thread like with discussions/arguments about power supply mods, clock mods, etc the way that the XMOS208 thread was driven into the ground?  You guys might want to start a completely different discussion on SU-1 mods.  
If you think I'm off base or out of line - say so.
 
Mar 16, 2017 at 1:32 PM Post #77 of 869
I disagree with you, we don't destroy thread as is about important things such as "how big SQ potential is" in..
 
Otherwise what you want to talk about? It is simple device, not much you could say.
 
Mar 16, 2017 at 1:40 PM Post #78 of 869
  I disagree with you, we don't destroy thread as is about important things such as "how big SQ potential is" in..

My point is that there are far more SU-1 "owners" than SU-1 "modders".
 
I'm not a forum moderator so carry on as you see fit.  
 
Mar 16, 2017 at 2:28 PM Post #79 of 869
  I don't see your point. It is obvious when you modding your stuff you lose warranty. It is also obvious XMOS has to be supplied by 5V.
What you expected??

 
   
@rafabro and @winders - can we please *NOT* destroy this thread like with discussions/arguments about power supply mods, clock mods, etc the way that the XMOS208 thread was driven into the ground?  You guys might want to start a completely different discussion on SU-1 mods.  
If you think I'm off base or out of line - say so.


First of all, this isn't about me or some third-party modifying an SU-1. This was about me trying to buy an SU-1 from Singxer, with full warranty and support, that had a 5vdc input. I exchanged emails with Leter, the owner of Singxer, and was able to order such a unit. However, Leter, seemed to change his mind and expressed concerns as the product had very specific requirements that made consumer 5vdc input precarious.
 
I won't clutter your thread anymore, T Bone. I am so sorry I don't live up to your expectations.
 
Mar 16, 2017 at 9:03 PM Post #80 of 869
Very specific 5v requirements is a curious thing for Leter to say. As far as I know DC is DC and 5 volts of potential is 5 volts of potential. What's so Earth shattering about that?
 
I thought about stripping the case from my iFi iPower and putting it inside a project box with and IEC on one end and 3 barrel plugs on the other. The iPower is rated at does 2.5 A @ 5v and 1uv of ripple. I think that that along with a plate and barrel plug on the back of the SU-1 would work well and be inexpensive at the same time.
 
Are there any spears anyone wants to throw in my plan?
 
Mar 17, 2017 at 1:12 AM Post #81 of 869
The standard SU-1 has a switch and a PSU that probably has a soft start by design. I would take care with a barrel that you plug in and out with the power off and only switch on once all connections are made.
 
Mar 17, 2017 at 8:15 AM Post #82 of 869
Very specific 5v requirements is a curious thing for Leter to say. As far as I know DC is DC and 5 volts of potential is 5 volts of potential. What's so Earth shattering about that?

I thought about stripping the case from my iFi iPower and putting it inside a project box with and IEC on one end and 3 barrel plugs on the other. The iPower is rated at does 2.5 A @ 5v and 1uv of ripple. I think that that along with a plate and barrel plug on the back of the SU-1 would work well and be inexpensive at the same time.

Are there any spears anyone wants to throw in my plan?


Why not disassemble the iPower if you can drop it inside the Singexer SU-1 instead? Can definitely still use the IEC so no need to cover up the hole.

Even though it handles 2.5A, both the USB input power and mainboard will be sharing the same ground so I don't think it would be a good idea. Correct me if I'm wrong. Maybe only one unless there's a way out of ground issues.

But I would totally agree with you. $50 would be a fairly cheap way to improve on those two things and provide 1uV of noise.

I would open the unit, take out the PCB, improve on the heatsink and thermal paste, replace with higher voltage handling capacitors, and use it to power the USB input, mainboard, and ISO Regen. 2.5A should be enough. I bet I can fit both the iPower and ISO Regen into the Singer SU-1 as an all in one solution.

There wouldn't be a need for a 2nd USB cable from the ISO Regen to the Singxer. It would be wired inside with a short wire. I just gotta see how much an ISO Regen would cost first though..

Anyways, I've been listening and comparing S/PDIF to AES/EBU lately. The prior is a 0.2M cable whereas the later is a 0.6M cable. Both sound extremely similar however I feel AES has better timbre, separation, and emphasis on sonic detailing. What I mean by sonic detailing is for example, the bass would be more punchy whereas S/PDIF sounds slightly more thumpy. The decay warps out immediately on the AES whereas S/PDIF slides out sluggishly accompanied with this sense of fuzziness. It wasn't muddy, but because it wasn't as prestine as AES, it didn't sound as fast or lively. There was a 5% difference in favor of the AES connection. My DAC doesn't mount the S/PDIF inputs directly onto the PCB, but use a wire instead so this may cause impedance problems that can cause jitter and thus reflect in its sound quality.

l heard that coaxial cables should be at least 1.5M in length otherwise there will be added reflections due to the signal getting there either too early or too late. These reflections cause additional jitter. I believe the AES cable, although longer, is better quality and balanced in design. The 110 ohm XLR connectors should be less prone to impedance issues like with 75 ohm RCA's. The differential (balanced) from XLR's also offers better common mode noise rejection. Maybe even the extra length helped with the reflections problem as mentioned earlier.

I'm excited to soon get my i2S mod working with my Metrum Pavane and compare that to see if it's better than the AES input. I no use the Holo Audio Spring.

Before when I had the Spring I did the same AES to S/PDIF comparison and prefered the AES but it was only 1-2% better on ONLY benchmark songs (songs I know the most). On the Pavane however, the AES is 5% better than S/PDIF on ANY song. The Spring had it's S/PDIF connectors mounted to the PCB so the downfall in the Pavane is not in the Spring which may explain why the difference wasn't as huge. That or the Pavane, like the SR-009 electrostatic, is just better at revealing the source material as well as other small changes.
 
Mar 17, 2017 at 8:50 AM Post #83 of 869
Why not disassemble the iPower if you can drop it inside the Singexer SU-1 instead? Can definitely still use the IEC so no need to cover up the hole.

Even though it handles 2.5A, both the USB input power and mainboard will be sharing the same ground so I don't think it would be a good idea. Correct me if I'm wrong. Maybe only one unless there's a way out of ground issues.

But I would totally agree with you. $50 would be a fairly cheap way to improve on those two things and provide 1uV of noise.

I would open the unit, take out the PCB, improve on the heatsink and thermal paste, replace with higher voltage handling capacitors, and use it to power the USB input, mainboard, and ISO Regen. 2.5A should be enough. I bet I can fit both the iPower and ISO Regen into the Singer SU-1 as an all in one solution.


Good thoughts and spear accepted! I hadn't considered the grounding issue. I was trying to save plug space :).

The iPower looks the have a smaller footprint than the stock PSU from the SU-1 so going inside is definitely doable. I wouldn't even need to purchase the iPower as I have a 5v one here.
 
Mar 17, 2017 at 9:11 AM Post #84 of 869
Good thoughts and spear accepted! I hadn't considered the grounding issue. I was trying to save plug space :).

The iPower looks the have a smaller footprint than the stock PSU from the SU-1 so going inside is definitely doable. I wouldn't even need to purchase the iPower as I have a 5v one here.


Dude if you have nothing to do with it and if I were you I'd totally try hooking it up to the USB input and bypass the computer 5V and Ground with the iPower. I do believe you'll gain more improvements that way than just using it to replace the stock power supply to the mainboard.
 
Mar 17, 2017 at 1:33 PM Post #85 of 869
I would open the unit, take out the PCB, improve on the heatsink and thermal paste, replace with higher voltage handling capacitors, and use it to power the USB input, mainboard, and ISO Regen. 2.5A should be enough. I bet I can fit both the iPower and ISO Regen into the Singer SU-1 as an all in one solution.

SU-1 need 1W of power which is ca 125mA. 
 
Mar 17, 2017 at 10:41 PM Post #87 of 869
Mar 18, 2017 at 1:06 PM Post #89 of 869
I just modded my SU-1 by providing direct 5vdc from a Teknet battery I had laying around. The internal SU-1 power supply measured exactly 5.0vdc while my battery output 5.1vdc. Initial impressions are positive. So far there isnt a night and day difference but music does seem to emanate from a blacker background. I will listen more and report back.

I should note that I use a PS Audio P3 ac regenerator unit so maybe that is why I dont initially hear a a huge difference. Perhaps the SU-1 power supply is actually pretty good.

More to come.
 
Mar 18, 2017 at 11:44 PM Post #90 of 869
HDMI Length
Singxer recommends that you keep the I2S connection (HDMI cable) as short as possible.  
Their recommendation is that you don't exceed 0.5M.  

I was caught off guard by this recommendation because it's not listed on the Singxer website.  I suppose it was "common knowledge" to everyone but me that I2S should be super short.  ...now I know :rolleyes:  and so do you! 

If you can't get your Singxer close to your DAC, the AES/EBU connection might be a better option for you.
You will need a 110Ω
 digital cable with XLR terminations.  These cables can get stupid pricey fast.   

Benchmark makes a quality cable that's reasonably priced.  link



Soundoctor also makes excellent and very reasonable custom cables. http://soundoctor.com/cables.htm
This guy has been involved in music production for many, many years and his cables are an industry standard.

I have an order for a custom set of XLR Y cables I'm waiting for. Check him out and his web site, lots of very useful info.
 

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