Ableza
Headphoneus Supremus
FYI: snap-opinion about Yggdrasil Rev B upgrade. Better bass, absolutely clear and detailed without being analytical, warmer and much (much) quieter. And that is just on initial power up.
This could be a more affordable option
https://kitsunehifi.com/product/kte...6-dop-free-shipping-with-coupon-code-singxer/
Can confirm. The KTE SU1 is a great product. I would either suggest it or the base model singer Su1 with an aftermarket linear power supply like the LPS-1. Yggy via AES used to be best. Haven’t tried against USB Gen 5, so cannot comment. But the su1 models are a better bang for buck IMO compared to the Mutec and do great job at supplying i2s, AES, reclocked USB etc.Thanks. This type of product is not something I've looked into before. The more recommendations/brands I can make myself aware of to start researching the better.
Even the basic SU-1 (not the fancy KTE edition) is quite good (I used it with my Yggy V1 before switching to an Auralic Aries Femto to reduce the number of boxes in my setup), and Eitr is yet again cheaper, and pretty close in overall effect. My guess is that Eitr + one of these will be pretty hard to distinguish from SU-1 for AES>Yggy V1.This could be a more affordable option
https://kitsunehifi.com/product/kte...6-dop-free-shipping-with-coupon-code-singxer/
One thing I have noticed with "very quiet and resolving system(s)" is they can enable you to hear the more subtle changes which can take longer to fully settle in.I just added up my hours on the upgraded Yggy. I have been playing music through it continuously for about three weeks. That is a lot of hours. I swapped it into my speaker system which was already using an original Yggy. My original Yggy sounds wonderful and has a bit less detail but is short of "bright". I have a lot of hours of listening time on that system. So I am basically saying that I am comparing apples to apples with no other variables, just new Yggy in place of old Yggy.
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A well thought out and integrated system.
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Basically I have a very quiet and resolving system and I am comparing a new and an old Yggy very directly. With 24*21= ~500 hours of burn in I am still hoping that the Yggy "cools" a bit more.
This is my experience, in my system, with my room, and my ears. YMMV. Sorry that I cannot give an unconditionally positive review. It is possible that I am just hearing brightness on bright recordings so I will still be doing more listening and reporting back.
Best,
Paul
One thing I have noticed with "very quiet and resolving system(s)" is they can enable you to hear the more subtle changes which can take longer to fully settle in.
For instance a few of the last several tweaks I have made have taken upwards of 2Khrs to fully stabilize.
Yeah I know this is crazy talk by some standards, but that is a way of confirming that a truly resolving and highly focused system has been achieved, because such small differences CAN be heard.
Thankfully not all of the tweaks took that long, but 1Khrs+ seems to be much more the norm now, whereas it was at ≈ 500hrs when the previous changes stabilized.
And the upside of all of this is the level of SQ just keeps improving which sometimes yields me just shaking my head in amazement as a reaction to what I just heard.
JJ
Are you thinking of getting the Directstream? If so, could you comment on what you like better about it than the Yggy and why?
I have the Perfectwave II and have been on the fence between upgrading mine to the Directstream vs just getting the Yggy.
Just staying with Yggy in general, i have read some people liking or not liking the detailed presentation of the DAC (with speakers).
I have played with a lot of combos over time and below are some of my findings.
1. Bright or siblance -
A. when source has electrical noise => I removed USB which adds electrical noise esp on high end. I now have a Lynx Card feeding Yggy via AES
B. Speakers and room Setup leads to over the top HF or siblance => Bring your mid and high controls slightly lower to fit your room environment; PLAY with your speaker position (such a massive SQ improvement activity at no cost); Make sure the speaker cables match the system and make sure the FULL signal is transferred to the speakers by choosing cables which can carry a lot of detail.
C. When cables are below par => Get decent connectors between the amp and speakers; recommend to use the XLR out of Yggy with amp attenuation if needed; make sure cables do NOT cross with power cables or have proper isolation properties.
2. Too detailed, analytical lowering overall musicality
A. When speakers cannot render the detailed information the Yggy is providing => Ensure your speakers is transparent and can project all the frequencies accurately (i.e GOOD SPEAKERS capable of seperating the details and instruments would work better with Yggy)
B. Position, position, position => my revelation in getting instrument separation anf resolution to their peak is by spending a lot of time moving the speakers around the listening position. Tiny changes can make huge differences at times - usual tips with speakers not too close to walls, toe in if needed, base on solid foundation, tweeter/mids at ear level, listening position symmetric with both speakers, etc...
C. Equipment synergy => AVOID overpowering Subs just to feel good about low end as this hazes or muddy the detailed information presented by the Yggy (I use my Subs for < 40 or 50 hz frequencies); use good sources (e.g streamers or remote NAS). Often important details for transient, PRAT are lost because the source is not feeding the full/clean data to the Yggy (e.g noisy computer or incomplete PCM signal to the Yggy just creates the false and non musical detail/resolution). Note detailed resolution can be annoying if it is not musical and toe tapping as i have experienced previously. Adding a good source largely helped in my case.
3. Not enough bass or not as tight
A. Subs/speakers settings => Playing around the cross over between the 2 is so important. With such a resolving DAC as Yggy, i feel less is more. I.e get the subs to provide the missing bass from the speakers. In my case, when i had too much bass in my subs, at times it created nulls making the sound hollow (missing low) or muddy. Synchronizing the 2 is so important.
B. Speakers stand => i recently added a coin under my speaker stand and this made the bass very tight and impactful. Ensure the speaker base is firm as well); subs also need to sit on firm pointers to provide the required low reverbs to ensure the mids/high frequencies are coated/bodied adding to the melody.
C. Amp not good enough=> Goes without saying on having the correct amp to pass on Yggy's bass capabilities onto the speakers; Heard SS amp works best for low end (which i have).
4. Dry and clinical
A. Each frequency bands are not treated to address their weaknesses => i had this experience at one time as the mids was overpowering the LF and HF.... addressed it via speaker positioning mainly and toned down the mids of my speakers as my room has no carpets.
B. Bass and High are not helping each other => happened when i focussed on my HF at the expense of losing LF; addressed it by lowring my HF in my speaker (or amp) to ensure my speaker/sub bass accentuates the HF by carrying it rather than playing over it.... lots of trying with treble/bass settings and speaker position.
@Xcalibur255 Not sure if you tried some of the changes i tried as per my post below.
https://www.head-fi.org/posts/14249711/
I had the exact similar issues at times esp with my system sounding below par on occassions.
Looking at your plights, the USB, room and cable fixes are definitely items to review without spending an arm and leg.
My system since had a consistent sublime performance where i hear the true Yggy qualities
After hearing what I did the other day it seems pretty likely my issue is switching power supply noise leaking into the USB connection. My game plan is to get in line for the upgrade to Analog B and Gen 5, burn-in and compare at length the updated USB sound to the transport/coax sound, and then re-assess whether a reclocker like the Mutec still feels necessary. I think the long term plans are going to include adding power conditioning regardless. It's not something I should have neglected this long given how much I've invested in everything in general.
I have to save up for this stuff one thing at a time so nothing is getting solved right away.
I would get a Singxer SU-1, It did a lot for my PWD MKII and I ended up keeping it both for about a year before I got the Yggdrasil.
If you can use a screw driver you can save a lot of money in shipping by just ordering the new USB board itself. There is a HowTo with photos somewhere on the web. It took me about 20 minutes. Not sure where you live but shipping my Yggy in for the analog boards update cost $70 + $33(return). Plus there is a $50 installation charge.