[Zer0.p0int.Zer0]

Thank you. I manage to unscrew the knob and then screw it back although the 1.5mm allen wrench was a bit small compared to the screw hole (weird). I try my best to fasten the screw, but the knob still wobble, even worse than before. I guess the screw and/or the thread inside the hole of the knob has worn out?

Maybe i should replace the whole knob?

Here are some photos. Is there something wrong here?

Maybe the set screw is a little worn. Or maybe I was wrong on the 1.5 mm. Do you have a 2 mm Allen key you can try? You may be able to find another set screw at a local hardware store. I wouldn’t think you need to replace the knob.
Did you purchase the Rag 2 new from Schiit or get it used?

 

[ngominhhoang132]

Maybe the set screw is a little worn. Or maybe I was wrong on the 1.5 mm. Do you have a 2 mm Allen key you can try? You may be able to find another set screw at a local hardware store. I wouldn’t think you need to replace the knob.
Did you purchase the Rag 2 new from Schiit or get it used?

Yes i made it. No more wobbling!

For your info, i used an allen screw of 1/16 inch not 1.5 mm (damn you imperial system) and wrap some rubber film round the shaft to make it more fit and stable

 

[robo24]

I didn't see anything after searching this thread regarding using the Ragnarok 2 to feed my energizer for electrostats, which is the iFi iESL. Currently using the TT2 via XLR which sounds fine but don't really need to have the TT2 anymore and figure I could recoup some funds by selling that since I now have a different DAC I prefer. Anyone using it for energizers?

 

[BTD1]

I didn't see anything after searching this thread regarding using the Ragnarok 2 to feed my energizer for electrostats, which is the iFi iESL. Currently using the TT2 via XLR which sounds fine but don't really need to have the TT2 anymore and figure I could recoup some funds by selling that since I now have a different DAC I prefer. Anyone using it for energizers?

One of my setups is using the Rag2 connected to the iESL via speaker taps. I have run an x9000 , a CRBN, and an 007Mk2 through this connection and it work perfectly. For these purposes the Rag2 supplies plenty of power and the stats sound quite good this way.

 

[robo24]

One of my setups is using the Rag2 connected to the iESL via speaker taps. I have run an x9000 , a CRBN, and an 007Mk2 through this connection and it work perfectly. For these purposes the Rag2 supplies plenty of power and the stats sound quite good this way.

Thanks, ordered the b-stock amp only that they had! What gain or other settings do you use with the iESL?

 

[BTD1]

Thanks, ordered the b-stock amp only one they had! What gain or other settings do you use with the iESL?

I tried all the different impedance settings on the iESL. The lower the number, the louder the sound. I use 64.
I do use the AC Termination feature on pro/normal, though it seems to be subtle, again the only way to know if any of these adjustments make a difference on your system is to try them all out. I am running the Rag2 at full volume, at the highest gain, through a RME ADI Dac/preamp for volume control and the RME has tone controls as well. It all works seamlessly.

 

[Sajid Amit]

I tried all the different impedance settings on the iESL. The lower the number, the louder the sound. I use 64.
I do use the AC Termination feature on pro/normal, though it seems to be subtle, again the only way to know if any of these adjustments make a difference on your system is to try them all out. I am running the Rag2 at full volume, at the highest gain, through a RME ADI Dac/preamp for volume control and the RME has tone controls as well. It all works seamlessly.

Hey man. How’s the 1266 off the Ragnarok?

Would appreciate input from anyone else who’s tried this combo

 

[BTD1]

Hey man. How’s the 1266 off the Ragnarok?

Would appreciate input from anyone else who’s tried this combo

Ha! I dislike the 1266 so much that I haven’t used it in months. Weird fit and tonality. I’d sell it if selling wasn’t such a hassle.

 

[Alan Sk]

Last night, my Raggy 2 started blinking when I was running it through speaker+preamp mode and quickly turned down the volume. Thinking it was a current issue, I thought nothing of it. This morning, turning it on again, it's still blinking. I've disconnected everything but the power and a phono preamp ground.

Any ideas?

This is an older post but it interested me as I have now had my Ragnarok 2 go out on me twice with the eternal blinking light. I have just sent it in again. That’s $90.

Both times it was a small static electrical charge that shut it down. The first time in the balanced headphone input, and this time there was a small static charge when I touched the input select button. It appears to be a very fragile amp when it comes to static electricity. Living in a northern midwest state static electricity is pretty common for six months of the year.


I have had my audio set up in the same place for decades and have had many different amps, preamps, etc, and have never had a piece of gear before the Ragnarok get completely knocked out by a static charge. It could be something in just my amp that is amiss, or a basic design flaw.

I shall see what Schiit has to say, but so far it has been a very unreliable amp. Sounds good, but what good is that if I am afraid to turn in on for half the year.

 

[thefitz]

had many different amps, preamps, etc, and have never had a piece of gear before the Ragnarok get completely knocked out by a static charge. It could be something in just my amp that is amiss, or a basic design flaw.

Interesting - they only charged me $45 for the fix, but indeed the shipping was the killer!

They said an op-amp blew, and haven't had an issue since. That said, I will definitely keep an eye out for static!

 

[Alan Sk]

Interesting - they only charged me $45 for the fix, but indeed the shipping was the killer!

They said an op-amp blew, and haven't had an issue since. That said, I will definitely keep an eye out for static!

I should have clarified the $90. It was for shipping as it was still under warranty.

I have the repair slip for the first time it went out. “Replaced L. ch OP amp. Adjusted protect circuit for OP amp.”

 

[thefitz]

Must have been the same/similar problem as me. Mine died when I was turning down the volume.

I thought the fact that I had two headphone stands (with 1/2" clearance) on the amp, so I haven't done that since.

 

[ngominhhoang132]

hey guys, how to connect a tube preamp to Rag? just plug the se/xlr out from the preamp to the se/xlr in of Rag, just like connecting a DAC to Rag?

 

[thefitz]

There's no way to bypass the preamp section of the Ragnarok, so you'd just plug it into one of the regular inputs. You'll now have two gain stages (which can be annoying since the preamp can overdrive the input etc), but finding a pleasant balance between the two is fun.

Since the Rag has a stepped attenuator, it might make sense to crank the volume knob to 100% on the lowest gain setting you can get away with and use the preamp to control the volume.

 

[ngominhhoang132]

There's no way to bypass the preamp section of the Ragnarok, so you'd just plug it into one of the regular inputs. You'll now have two gain stages (which can be annoying since the preamp can overdrive the input etc), but finding a pleasant balance between the two is fun.

Since the Rag has a stepped attenuator, it might make sense to crank the volume knob to 100% on the lowest gain setting you can get away with and use the preamp to control the volume.

Too bad i did not have good experience with double gain stages. I guess i will just skip a preamp and run a tube amp instead