[AuditoryCanvas]

Tube life is behind you then?

Haha, never, but I don't plan on buying and selling anywhere near as many as I have been anymore.

 

[jb77]

These 7316's are legit. Take a 6201 Hamburg, a 6201 Mircham, draw a line down the middle, add depth, width, detail and a teaspoonful of fun, and there you have it. This could've been end-game, but between this, the 7062's, a taste of Mullard squares and curiosity of what's around the corner that isn't the case. Lol. Next up a pair of 6211's from AC.

Yes the 7316 are amazing tubes, I have two long plate D getter pairs (Beckman label) and two singles also Beckman label long plate D getters. And I just ordered a pair of the Amperex PQ 7316 ECC186 12AU7. D Getter. as I was curious about these!

After you get the 6211’s from AC and have a chance to burn them in let us/me know what you think of them!
Also some other recommendations for your tube hunting adventure!

1.Mullard Blackburn ECC82 long plate square getter UK B- factory code
2.Brimar CV491/12AU7/ECC82 Long Plate Square Getter

 

[fotomeow]

JC, I take 24 hrs away from the thread, and I’m 5 pages behind!

Didn't I already say what I hear ? Hmmm, I can't remember (that was for OldSkool, lol). Really what separates the 801S's for me is their ability to bring out the nuanced harmonic subtleties of each instrument and voice. On my gear the Teles deliver the closest thing to real instrument timbre and size that I've heard on headphones. In short they deliver a more complex note. There are a lot of very good tubes that are great at retrieving certain details but they are flatter, thinner, "smaller" and less textured on my gear. I've been involved in live music most of my life and the Teles deliver the closest thing to that live, pulsating, breathing sound. Don't know if this translates to the MJ2, Lyr 2, etc...but they sure deliver for me.

And let’s remember that the Woo 2 is a tube-rectified OTL with two BIG 6080 Power tubes. 6 tubes vs Lyr/Mj2 2 pre 2 tubes. Very different animals.

Well, I guess I have seen it all now. My ECC801s (My third pair) arrive today from India. At least both have bottom diamonds but 1 tube is marked 12AT7WA. Yes, I guess it technically is a 12AT7WA, but I have NEVER EVER seen any marked that way. It gets worse...both tubes have 4 top seams, on top of the tube, like a Siemens or Amperex. My other 2 pairs of 801S have no seams. What???

You got a trans pair bro, but thats cool, that schiit is ok these days as long as you are not trying to get into the military

Toying with the idea of selling my 539c if that’s something that interests you?

Cool, would you be willing to for a quad of trans Siemens/Tele 801s with quattro-seamed tops?

I’m trying to join the club, Bill. I have one really good pair and now 2 pairs with issues (missing diamond, seams on top) but if I can find one more good pair as backups...I’m done, man. DONE.

Haha, never, but I don't plan on buying and selling anywhere near as many as I have been anymore.

Done? You ain’t done! You ain’t goin’ nowhere! This is the Hotel California ......!

 

[mattrudy80]

Yes the 7316 are amazing tubes, I have two long plate D getter pairs (Beckman label) and two singles also Beckman label long plate D getters. And I just ordered a pair of the Amperex PQ 7316 ECC186 12AU7. D Getter. as I was curious about these!

After you get the 6211’s from AC and have a chance to burn them in let us/me know what you think of them!
Also some other recommendations for your tube hunting adventure!

1.Mullard Blackburn ECC82 long plate square getter UK B- factory code
2.Brimar CV491/12AU7/ECC82 Long Plate Square Getter

I guess I should've been more specific.about the 7316. They are Philips Heerlen Ct3 D getter. I've seen these labeled Philips and Amperex.

The 6211 are quite awesome. They have a detail and sweetness on vocals and strings like no other, also reproducing the violin timbre I'm so critical about. So far there are a few tubes that stand out above the others, in their own league for being 5% better (I know it's only 5%, but this last 5% is spiritual experience huge) like TK talks about:
7316 Heerlen Ct3 D getter, 7062 Heerlen IV3, 12AT7 Mitcham Tk1 square getter and the Telefunken 6211 gold pin.

I'm still on the hunt for Mullard square getters. After listening to '58 Mitcham Tk1 12AT7 I got a glimpse of what is possible with these old Mullard square getters.

 

[jb77]

I guess I should've been more specific.about the 7316. They are Philips Heerlen Ct3 D getter. I've seen these labeled Philips and Amperex.

Nice!

The 6211 are quite awesome. They have a detail and sweetness on vocals and strings like no other, also reproducing the violin timbre I'm so critical about. So far there are a few tubes that stand out above the others, in their own league for being 5% better (I know it's only 5%, but this last 5% is spiritual experience huge) like TK talks about:
7316 Heerlen Ct3 D getter, 7062 Heerlen IV3, 12AT7 Mitcham Tk1 square getter and the Telefunken 6211 gold pin.

Thank you for letting me know I might need to try a pair! For that last “5%” that can make a “huge” difference! Can make a great tube a holy grail tube!

I'm still on the hunt for Mullard square getters. After listening to '58 Mitcham Tk1 12AT7 I got a glimpse of what is possible with these old Mullard square getters.

For the Mullards try and find the B codes as this is for Blackburn, both TK and I have a pair and they are TK’s number one spot tubes! As they are amazing tubes! Vocals on them(especially female vocals) are phenomenal!

 

[kolkoo]

I gotta say I love it when this thread is flying It's kinda exciting for me.

 

[TK16]

I guess I should've been more specific.about the 7316. They are Philips Heerlen Ct3 D getter. I've seen these labeled Philips and Amperex.

The 6211 are quite awesome. They have a detail and sweetness on vocals and strings like no other, also reproducing the violin timbre I'm so critical about. So far there are a few tubes that stand out above the others, in their own league for being 5% better (I know it's only 5%, but this last 5% is spiritual experience huge) like TK talks about:
7316 Heerlen Ct3 D getter, 7062 Heerlen IV3, 12AT7 Mitcham Tk1 square getter and the Telefunken 6211 gold pin.

I'm still on the hunt for Mullard square getters. After listening to '58 Mitcham Tk1 12AT7 I got a glimpse of what is possible with these old Mullard square getters.

I`d recommend skipping the ECC81 Blackburn square getters if you cannot buy those along with the ECC82 Blackburn square getters. The ECC82`s holy grail sounding, the ECC81`s are quite excellent.

 

[Ripper2860]

Hmmmm. So how do the Mullard Blackburns compare to Mullard CV4003s? New to this whole non-6SN7 thing and have a pair of Mullard CV4003s. Markings are as follows, if it helps ...

000-4003
CV4003
KQDD/K
84-44

These are my favorite so far, but just wondering where they stand in the tube expert pecking order.

 

[bcowen]

Its testing limitations turn me off. Lol. No issue fixing or rebuilding, if I can find a deal...

Anyone selling a tester in this forum?

I have one in stock I haven't gotten to yet -- a Hickok 800A. Faceplate is pristine, but the case needs some very serious loving applied to it. PM me if you're interested.

 

[TK16]

Hmmmm. So how do the Mullard Blackburns compare to Mullard CV4003s? New to this whole non-6SN7 thing and have a pair of Mullard CV4003s. Markings are as follows, if it helps ...

000-4003
CV4003
KQDD/K
84-44

These are my favorite so far, but just wondering where they stand in the tube expert pecking order.

If those are 1984 tubes like I think they are, probably smoke them by a very good amount. If your talking about the square getter Blackburn ECC81, square getter Blackburn ECC82, you'd probably chuck your current pair out the window. You have a pic of your current CV4003?

 

[bcowen]

That sounds really cool for your DIY power cords! Do you have any pictures of them? Interesting thought for yourself, not sure $ involved or time for that matter but I bet you would have people here willing to buy some from you! If you ever decided to do that as a hobby depending on time involved!

Thought this deserved its own post!

This is one that was handy to take a picture of. Short because I needed it short. This has Furutech FI-11 unplated copper blade connectors and Oyaide Black Mamba (bulk) cable that I added an antistatic braided sleeve (mostly just for appearance because I'm anal). Connector options are nearly endless -- unplated, gold plated, Rhodium plated, lots of different brands, etc. as are sleeving options (any color and design you want so long as it's any color or design you want). Furutech and Oyaide connectors are expensive but have incredible build quality. I gave up a long time ago trying to create my own weave/twisting configuration for the inner conductors and have been very happy using the pre-made (bulk) cable from either Neotech or Oyaide. The Neotech tends to run a little on the warmer, full-bodied side while the Oyaide Black Mamba is faster and a bit more dynamic. Neotech bulk cable is quickly available in the 'States -- the Oyaide has to be ordered from Japan.

Note the prices below are per foot, so this is not a cheap endeavor depending on how long the cord needs to be.

http://www.soniccraft.com/index.php/wire-power-c-296_178

I have never tried one of the Pangea power cords. Many, many reports on them being great cables for the money. The only thing I've ever bought from Pangea was one of their least expensive USB cables. And not meaning to offend anyone here, but quite frankly it sucked. Bad. Even after breaking it in on the Audiodharma cable cooker for a full week I still needed to place thick towels on my shoulders to soak up the blood pouring out of my ears. Fatiguing? More like a mini-gun firing razor blades straight into my eardrums at 3000 blades/second. Fortunately Audio Advisor took it back for a full refund (less shipping) with no questions asked. Maybe their pricier USB options are better, but I had no desire to try any of them.

 

[fotomeow]

I guess I should've been more specific.about the 7316. They are Philips Heerlen Ct3 D getter. I've seen these labeled Philips and Amperex.

The 6211 are quite awesome. They have a detail and sweetness on vocals and strings like no other, also reproducing the violin timbre I'm so critical about. So far there are a few tubes that stand out above the others, in their own league for being 5% better (I know it's only 5%, but this last 5% is spiritual experience huge) like TK talks about:
7316 Heerlen Ct3 D getter, 7062 Heerlen IV3, 12AT7 Mitcham Tk1 square getter and the Telefunken 6211 gold pin.

I'm still on the hunt for Mullard square getters. After listening to '58 Mitcham Tk1 12AT7 I got a glimpse of what is possible with these old Mullard square getters.

Absolutely. At this juncture, its ALL about that last 5-10% of sonic ambrosia ...

Hmmmm. So how do the Mullard Blackburns compare to Mullard CV4003s? New to this whole non-6SN7 thing and have a pair of Mullard CV4003s. Markings are as follows, if it helps ...

000-4003
CV4003
KQDD/K
84-44

These are my favorite so far, but just wondering where they stand in the tube expert pecking order.

Ripper, that looks like the code on the back of my box of Captain Crunch Peanut Butter cereal! Listening to tubes or peanut butter balls?

 

[TK16]

This is one that was handy to take a picture of. Short because I needed it short. This has Furutech FI-11 unplated copper blade connectors and Oyaide Black Mamba (bulk) cable that I added an antistatic braided sleeve (mostly just for appearance because I'm anal). Connector options are nearly endless -- unplated, gold plated, Rhodium plated, lots of different brands, etc. as are sleeving options (any color and design you want so long as it's any color or design you want). Furutech and Oyaide connectors are expensive but have incredible build quality. I gave up a long time ago trying to create my own weave/twisting configuration for the inner conductors and have been very happy using the pre-made (bulk) cable from either Neotech or Oyaide. The Neotech tends to run a little on the warmer, full-bodied side while the Oyaide Black Mamba is faster and a bit more dynamic. Neotech bulk cable is quickly available in the 'States -- the Oyaide has to be ordered from Japan.




Note the prices below are per foot, so this is not a cheap endeavor depending on how long the cord needs to be.

http://www.soniccraft.com/index.php/wire-power-c-296_178



I have never tried one of the Pangea power cords. Many, many reports on them being great cables for the money. The only thing I've ever bought from Pangea was one of their least expensive USB cables. And not meaning to offend anyone here, but quite frankly it sucked. Bad. Even after breaking it in on the Audiodharma cable cooker for a full week I still needed to place thick towels on my shoulders to soak up the blood pouring out of my ears. Fatiguing? More like a mini-gun firing razor blades straight into my eardrums at 3000 blades/second. Fortunately Audio Advisor took it back for a full refund (less shipping) with no questions asked. Maybe their pricier USB options are better, but I had no desire to try any of them.

The ones with tiny razor blades sound much like GE tubes.

 

[fotomeow]

This is one that was handy to take a picture of. Short because I needed it short. This has Furutech FI-11 unplated copper blade connectors and Oyaide Black Mamba (bulk) cable that I added an antistatic braided sleeve (mostly just for appearance because I'm anal). Connector options are nearly endless -- unplated, gold plated, Rhodium plated, lots of different brands, etc. as are sleeving options (any color and design you want so long as it's any color or design you want). Furutech and Oyaide connectors are expensive but have incredible build quality. I gave up a long time ago trying to create my own weave/twisting configuration for the inner conductors and have been very happy using the pre-made (bulk) cable from either Neotech or Oyaide. The Neotech tends to run a little on the warmer, full-bodied side while the Oyaide Black Mamba is faster and a bit more dynamic. Neotech bulk cable is quickly available in the 'States -- the Oyaide has to be ordered from Japan.




Note the prices below are per foot, so this is not a cheap endeavor depending on how long the cord needs to be.

http://www.soniccraft.com/index.php/wire-power-c-296_178



I have never tried one of the Pangea power cords. Many, many reports on them being great cables for the money. The only thing I've ever bought from Pangea was one of their least expensive USB cables. And not meaning to offend anyone here, but quite frankly it sucked. Bad. Even after breaking it in on the Audiodharma cable cooker for a full week I still needed to place thick towels on my shoulders to soak up the blood pouring out of my ears. Fatiguing? More like a mini-gun firing razor blades straight into my eardrums at 3000 blades/second. Fortunately Audio Advisor took it back for a full refund (less shipping) with no questions asked. Maybe their pricier USB options are better, but I had no desire to try any of them.

But the DIY cables are still a helk of a lot cheaper than from dealers. I agree about the Furutech. The Furutech I bought was actually MADE by the dealer I purchased it from.

Yes, the Pangea's have had a small cult following the last several years. One of the best bang for buck. But as bc pointed out, just b/c you can design a great entry level audiophile power cable doesn't mean you got the chops to make an equivalently good USB cord. I have also worked with AudioAdvisor and ordered some custom speaker cables out of AudioQuest 4 or something. Again, best bang for buck. They also do custom ICs, so keep that in mind.

I come from a home stereo background, this HP Schiit is new for me. In general, in home stereo, the Rec is to spend 1/3 of budget on source, 1/3 on pre/Amp, and 1/3 on speakers, with the remaining 10% on cables. Bc most people will spend and inordinate amount on speakers (50%) and 1/4 on source and preAmp. They get it all wrong. If anything, since the quality of the largely determine SQ as it travels from the wall socket to your ears, a person would be wiser to invest more in the front end of their system: My personal approach for budgeting is about 20% on source, 40% on Pre & Amp, 20% on speakers. that's 80%. The last 20% goes to cables/conditioning.

E.g. The signal NEVER gets better from the wall. And once you lose that resolution, dynamics, soundstage from dirty electricity, you will NEVER get it back. Poof. Gone. 86'ed. Ghandi. Black Hole. Never to be seen again.
1. from the wall receptacle (some people replace the receptacle to clean up the signal and reduce distortion from the get-go)
2. to the power cord that goes to your conditioner or isolator (conditioner? isolator? what?)
3. the power cord from the conditioner (2-10 ports) to your sources: CD player, phono stage, DAC ,etc and so on and so forth. IMO, power cords are more important than IC/Interconnects.
(FWIW, I use a Richard Grey Pole Pig and 400 Pro conditioner).

Suggest the folks getting the power cords and Pangea's invest in at least an entry level audiophile power strip/cleaner/conditioner: eg. the Pangea Quattro or its larger brother. Others units are out there to choose from. But just make sure you get one. If a person is blowing mad coin on HG tubes, but neglecting their front end electrical signal, it is akin to shooting oneself in the foot. That person will never really hear what those HG tubes are capable of. never.

oh, yeah, this is a HP forum. Everything I said about balancing out a person system applies to the HP system as well. Same deal, diff story.

 

[Ripper2860]

If those are 1984 tubes like I think they are, probably smoke them by a very good amount. If your talking about the square getter Blackburn ECC81, square getter Blackburn ECC82, you'd probably chuck your current pair out the window. You have a pic of your current CV4003?

Here are some pics (on adapters). If the others will truly "smoke" these, then I MUST find a pair if not too cost prohibitive, 'cause I absolutely love these!! (After I pay for the 752 tester and secure a pair of Amperex 7316's, that is.)






On an unrelated matter ....

The only thing I've ever bought from Pangea was one of their least expensive USB cables. And not meaning to offend anyone here, but quite frankly it sucked. Bad. Even after breaking it in on the Audiodharma cable cooker for a full week I still needed to place thick towels on my shoulders to soak up the blood pouring out of my ears. Fatiguing? More like a mini-gun firing razor blades straight into my eardrums at 3000 blades/second.

Sometimes folks can't really handle a cable that is too accurate and revealing. Have you ever considered that the one thing all the things you hate have in common is you, Bill??