[tincanear]

OHHHH boy new Monoblocks!!! I hope they are 4 ohm capable without having to worry about over-current protection issues like my Vidar have! I volunteer to BETA test them to put them through their paces!!!

i think the Apogee Duettas Scintillas would be a tougher load (and perhaps someone with Wilson Watt as those have impedance dip ~1 ohm at 2kHz from some sort of shunt damping network)

 

[Rensek]

Any idea what the Folkvangr volume pot will be ?
i hope its not Alps pot

Likely to be Alps or a stepped attenuator.

Schiit seems to use like/similar components whenever possible... It would be quite surprising to see them go to a different pot company for a single product..

 

[yonson]

i think the Apogee Duettas would be a tougher load (and perhaps someone with Wilson Watt as those have impedance dip ~1 ohm at 2kHz from some sort of shunt damping network)

It looks like those don't even dip below 5 ohms, mine go under 4...

 

[Mightygrey]

Any idea what the Folkvangr volume pot will be ?
i hope its not Alps pot

I've always wished that the next Mjolnir would come with the stepped relay pot from the Saga along with room for an on-board module (I'd like a phono one, in my case). Perhaps this might tick both those boxes!

 

[tincanear]

Any idea what the Folkvangr volume pot will be ?
i hope its not Alps pot

all the (2-gang) controls in my recently received Loki Mini+ and an A3 from last year, work just fine-- no scratchy electrical noise during volume adjustment. But a Magni3+ & Magni Heresy from dec 2019 "vintage" with 9mm controls were a tiny bit scratchy in some spots. I'm surprised about the 27mm controls having issues, as Alps generally has a very good reputation.

 

[Hofy]

As much as I would like an electric car, they need to get past two hurdles. One being range and the second being charging locations and time to charge.

 

[darkarn]

I have one that I use as a power strip since it's there ... inherited from a friend ... but I've never used it for audio improvement if that's your angle.

I elminated ground loops and most noise by plugging into a $150 battery backup / surge protector from amazon.

If you like I can try to create a problem with my system and see if the isobar solves it.

(in case anyone is wondering if I'm ready for the vaccine, my willingness to create problems in my audio gear for lols should clarify things for you)

And props to @Jason for dropping not one but 3 hints about things to come. I think the gonads on my Suolo mono's shriviled up a little at ten tube headphone amplifier though ...

Thanks for the offer, I was wondering more if the Isobar helps with the err "inter-component interference" since I think this is what is going on. Somehow only the JBL LSR 305 is causing problems for the Eitr. If they are switched off, no issues is seen (so far)

I use an APC brand myself, same concept. I went with this brand from a "if it is good enough for industry, it is good enough for me".

Thanks, I checked the APC UPS sold here, most of them are Line Interactive with Simulated Sine Wave. For those that do, they cost nearly as much as getting a new pair of monitors that are better than the JBL LSR 305

there might be an issue with the AC mains power / circuit breaker / power distribution panel, or the "drop" from the utility / electric company pole to your house connection. I would look into having a licensed electrician check the circuit connections, especially if lights dimming happens often.

Thanks, I checked, if either the Eitr or the JBL LSR 305 are not in the chain, no such problems will occur. All of my other electrical stuff are working normally so I highly doubt it would be a house-wide power issue.

 

[darkarn]

I've been using this for a while with a variety of gear, including some Schiit (Eitr, Lyr 3, Yggdrasil).

I used them for my earlier Schiit (Bifrost, Asgard 2, ...) without any issues. Still using them for computer gear. For audio now, I'm using Furman Elite 15i for some gear and Furman PST-8 for the rest.

I'm very pleased with the 2 Furman ELITE-15 PF I's I've owned since 4/2019. They've been bullet proof and I've not had a single piece of gear damaged thru numerous power outages typically of the fast on/off cycling type.

I use a Furman PST-8 (maybe it's the PST-8D) on my main system, but I never had any power or noise or interference or grounding problems, before or after. Used to have a cheaper power conditioner; no problems. Before that, an cheaper one - no problems. Before that - straight to the wall outlets - no problems. Did a one week trial with the high-end Audioquest Niagara 1000 + Thunder power cable ($1600) and could not tell any difference in sound quality, noise, etc. So I'm fine with my Furman, it's sturdy and holds down the carpet effectively.

Thank you all, now I can see why Furman is widely recommended here and elsewhere. The models you all use don't seem to be available over here and/or are pricier than what I thought though

 

[darkarn]

The Eitr, or at least mine, was very sensitive to static and electrical surges from turning lights off/on. The static part presented itself whenever I got up out of my chair, which is on carpet, making the music stop playing. The same thing would happen if I turned a light or ceiling fan off or on. Hitting play again on whatever music software I was using got it going again right away. Removing the Eitr and using USB from my iMac would solve this issue but not sound as good. The Eitr eventually failed and I moved to Roon using an ethernet endpoint with a coax hat and I haven't had static or switch cut outs. I was using a regular power strip at the time so I don't know if that would fix things but now I have a Furman PST-8 Digital Power Station that's built like a tank and was reasonably priced.

Thanks for the hint, I did check for other sources of static and checking if switching on/off other things would trigger the issue too but so far only the JBL LSR 305 would trigger this.

And yes, I really like to have my cake and eat it too since both the Eitr and the LSR 305 sound awesome especially for their prices; it would be a pity if I need to give up either of them

 

[Mad Lust Envy]

Another update: gonna be a crazy year. Tyr (AKA biggus ampius) released to production, as well as Loki Max and Folkvangr (10 tube headphone amp), and another one on the inexpensive end of things, and Urd beta now in production, and a couple other things. Plus next week. And a couple weeks after that.

Buckle. The. ****. Up.

(Standard disclaimers apply: things may be delayed due to my incompetence/supply chain/aliens/more COVIDs/meteors or other end-of-the-world scenarios, whatever.)

Ooh, the inexpensive stuff has my juices flowing. It's there anything tube related down low? I ask because I'm THIS close to really wanting a Vali, but I'm holding on hope for maybe you guys surprising us with something.

I'd even be down for a mini tube buffer to slot between the Modius RCA out and Jotunheim 2 RCA in for some analog sounding infusion. They exist, but it's not SCHIIIIIIIIT. I want Schiit.

Something like this, but... better... And Schiit. And maybe single tube...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08Q7J5YMY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_95MD7GBSD64P5592YSYV

I know...Vali, but I feel that's more headphone amp (I already have the Jot 2 for that) than pre... I dunno. It'd be the choice I'd have atm.

 

[darkarn]

Another update on my Eitr issue:
After much more testing (mainly setting up a camcorder to record the Eitr while switching on/off various stuff around the house). I can safely narrow the issue down to just the JBL LSR 305. Very specifically, during the on/off sequence, there is a delay between flicking their switches and the monitors being able to play audio. The Eitr would turn itself on/off briefly during this delay. Also, when the JBL LSR 305 are switched on, sometimes this still happens.

My rough suspicion is that the switching power supply within the LSR 305 (and perhaps the Class D amps within them?) is creating enough electrical noise that affects only the Eitr but not the rest of my equipment (audio or not) since this only started when I got my Eitr weeks ago, and my current Belkin Gold Series surge protectors are not able to filter enough of that noise

Workarounds that worked so far:
1. Using the Weiduka AC8.8 (Chinese power conditioner) with only the JBL LSR 305: Lessened such occurances a lot (which means its filtering work better than the Belkin?), but this particular set I am using seem to be on its way out too (hence my questions about other power conditioners) since its voltmeter started to show a reading of 300V instead of the usual 240V which may mean something is breaking down
2. Switched off JBL LSR 305: Completely eliminated the problem so far but it means I need to use my headphones. Not that great if I need to answer to people calling out to me and/or doorbells etc since these are closed-back headphones

If anything, it sounds like I need to either spend a reasonable sum of money for known-good power conditioners that can hopefully help with this (and replace the Weiduka AC8.8), or simply buy a new pair of speakers that hopefully do not exhibit such issues. Most models of power conditioners/UPSes/speakers so far seem out of reach budget-wise or rather they don't seem to make sense to me since I can just use the same amount of money to get a Biifrost 2 to replace the Modi Multibit+Eitr combo I am using right now

I will investigate further for sure since I do want a solution where I don't give up either the Eitr or the LSR 305 since they are indeed a wonderful combo. Might bite the bullet for either the Isotek's Isoplug, Tacima CS947 or Furman M-10x E since these are still within my budget of less than 200 SGD (anything more is better spent on better components imo)

For the record, they still work, just that the random shutdowns can get disruptive if I am using OBS to record gameplay cos it will mean I need to pause gameplay and restart OBS

 

[Les Strat]

A friend loaned me a Model 3 for most of a weekend and, yeah, I'm hooked as well.

A friend is now on his second Tesla S and saving up for the totally bonkers Tesla S Plaid +.
I think it will cost £130k in the UK!
Crazy specs, such as:
1100 bhp
0-60 mph in < 2 secs
200 mph top speed
520 mile range

As a motorbiker, hooked on speed, he decided that the S Plaid+ is an 'essential' purchase, as the current S just isn't fast enough...
It makes my audio gear purchases look like a very cheap hobby, as I have pointed out to my wife.
I know that the future for cars is electric ( or maybe hydrogen cell technology) but if I was tempted to buy a second car, I think I'd have to get something with a big V8 ( or V12...) petrol engine in it, before they are outlawed, or simply taxed out of existence
( BTW, 'Big' in the UK is only about 3.5 litres... which I think is a mere 213 cubic inches)

 

[GU1DO]

all the (2-gang) controls in my recently received Loki Mini+ and an A3 from last year, work just fine-- no scratchy electrical noise during volume adjustment. But a Magni3+ & Magni Heresy from dec 2019 "vintage" with 9mm controls were a tiny bit scratchy in some spots. I'm surprised about the 27mm controls having issues, as Alps generally has a very good reputation.

Alps blue are fine controls but they are little dark for me , that why i pass any product with them

 

[JoeWhip]

Oh, and bcowen, I'll buy you TX BBQ at Nueces Brewing anytime. Or CA tri-tip, if you want to blow up your head. Lotsa good BBQ all over the place (some of the best BBQ I had was in Tokyo), no need to crap on other interpretations of it.

My wife is from Santa Barbara, other than my wife, the best thing ever out of CA is Tri Tip. Even better than right turn on red.

 

[adydula]

The product that excites me is the possibility of the Schiit "Urd" CD Transport.

Being old school, I want to compare using my redbook cd collection against the streaming services we all use.

Getting rid of the pc connection and all that windows OS stuff and music players...will be interesting to see how this all works...

Alex