Ableza
Headphoneus Supremus
A good friend who works for a major record company in Los Angeles said it may spell the end for new vinyl releases - or at least for all but expensive boutique releases.
A good friend who works for a major record company in Los Angeles said it may spell the end for new vinyl releases - or at least for all but expensive boutique releases.
I just gave the tube pins a cleaning with 99% isopropyl and noticed that a couple of the pins are a tiny bit wobbly on one of my tubes, a relatively new Northern Electric 6SN7. All the rest of the tubes have pins rock solid in place.Clean the tube pins for sure, Deoxit makes some fine products but starting with isopropyl might let you know if cleaning is an issue. If you are dealing with Russian tubes from the 50’s or 60’s they have solder issues that I can talk to you about outside the thread. If it is not either of those issues then the a tube may be developing microphony, mechanical vibration leading to electrical noise. I do not reflow solder in Russian tubes, I remove the old and replace it to prevent future issues.
Sorry it has been a while, what brand of tube has the wobbly pins? I have never replaced the pins and tube base but that could be a solution if it is an extremely valuable tube. Personally I would try a dab of epoxy at the base of the pin to stop the wobbling and I would most likely have replaced the solder inside the pins to see if that helped. If you are talking about a $10-$20 tube I would probably just get another tube.I just gave the tube pins a cleaning with 99% isopropyl and noticed that a couple of the pins are a tiny bit wobbly on one of my tubes, a relatively new Northern Electric 6SN7. All the rest of the tubes have pins rock solid in place.
I'm worried what might happen if I remove a tube and a pin breaks off inside the Freya...Is it no problem if pins have a little movement in them? Or could this be causing the scratchy sounds? If so, what is the remedy? Thanks!
It's a fairly new Northern Electric 6SN7 tube, not super cheap, and I love the sound. I am not familiar with tube repair...how do you replace solder inside a pin? You mean the pins themselves aren't soldered to the tube base?Sorry it has been a while, what brand of tube has the wobbly pins? I have never replaced the pins and tube base but that could be a solution if it is an extremely valuable tube. Personally I would try a dab of epoxy at the base of the pin to stop the wobbling and I would most likely have replaced the solder inside the pins to see if that helped. If you are talking about a $10-$20 tube I would probably just get another tube.
Some of the pins have solid wire extending down inside them, you have to be able to remove the old solder, and then apply liquid rosin and new solder. That is my technique anyway and I have had very good luck on Russian tubes doing that. This is probably not the best discussion for this thread so if you want to PM me, maybe tomorrow I can show you photos of the process. I would offer to check out the tube and re-solder the pins if you like but there would be no charge associated with that and I would pay shipping back to you. It would take me less time to go through the process, than explain it.It's a fairly new Northern Electric 6SN7 tube, not super cheap, and I love the sound. I am not familiar with tube repair...how do you replace solder inside a pin? You mean the pins themselves aren't soldered to the tube base?
@Jason Stoddard , I see that Schiit no longer sells USB bridge Eitr. Is there going to be new and improved "Unison USB bridge" in the near future, or have you guys stopped making USB bridges completely?
I still see a use case for the Eitr though that isn't covered by what's currently available, and that is hooking up two devices which only have USB output to the same DAC.
While puzzling over how to configure my setup and how to hook up my computer whole also hooking up a ROON server, I frequently thought about using an Eitr for that scenario.
In the end I didn't put together the system in such a way and didn't buy an Eitr, but for future would still like to be able to add it...
I just can't justify the purchase now for "just in case I might ever need it".
115V ... I need a 230V adapter... Anyway I don't need one _right now_ so I can't justify the expense to myself now for the hypotethical case I want one in the future.Hi, I'm that little devil floating over your shoulder and making suggestions you don't want to hear...
Eitr's are still available on the b-stock page https://www.schiit.com/b-stocks , but once they're gone, they're gone...
Go on, you know you want one.....
Hi, I'm that little devil floating over your shoulder and making suggestions you don't want to hear...
Eitr's are still available on the b-stock page https://www.schiit.com/b-stocks , but once they're gone, they're gone...
Go on, you know you want one.....
You can still buy one in The Netherlands. I'm sure Schiit can provide a 115-16V wall wart for you instead of the 230V supplied.I bought a Wyrd for this reason, if I didn't already have an Eitr I'd buy one of those too... Bummed I missed out on JIL, I didn't realize they were going away until it was too late.
Some of the pins have solid wire extending down inside them, you have to be able to remove the old solder, and then apply liquid rosin and new solder. That is my technique anyway and I have had very good luck on Russian tubes doing that. This is probably not the best discussion for this thread so if you want to PM me, maybe tomorrow I can show you photos of the process. I would offer to check out the tube and re-solder the pins if you like but there would be no charge associated with that and I would pay shipping back to you. It would take me less time to go through the process, than explain it.