Schiit Happened: The Story of the World's Most Improbable Start-Up
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CAPT Deadpool

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Lore specs say 100-200W power handling...will one Vidar power them? Or do you need two?
They are both high sensitivity speakers. Recommend you look up the sensitivity of your speakers or those you are going to buy then visit this webpage to calculate the required wattage for you particular situation.

http://myhometheater.homestead.com/splcalculator.html

If you plug it the numbers, 98db at 1m and 1watt sensitivity (Lore), 100 watts at 8 ohms stereo (Vidar) Lore is a 8 ohm speaker, your sitting 10 feet away, using 2 speakers that are near a wall. This gives you 114 db peak sound pressure.

114db at the ear should cause hearing damage in roughly 15 minutes of continuous listening. I'd say that's plenty loud and gives you headroom for loud passages. But it is all situation dependent on your needs.

Another case of "it depends". But probably yes plenty loud.

If you used 2 Vidars as monoblocks 400watts into 8 ohms all things equal your Peak SPL via the same math gives you 120dbs.
 
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They are both high sensitivity speakers. Recommend you look up the sensitivity of your speakers or those you are going to buy then visit this webpage to calculate the required wattage for you particular situation.

http://myhometheater.homestead.com/splcalculator.html

If you plug it the numbers, 98db at 1m and 1watt sensitivity (Lore), 100 watts at 8 ohms stereo (Vidar) Lore is a 8 ohm speaker, your sitting 10 feet away, using 2 speakers that are near a wall. This gives you 114 db peak sound pressure.

114db at the ear should cause hearing damage in roughly 15 minutes of continuous listening. I'd say that's plenty loud and gives you headroom for loud passages. But it is all situation dependent on your needs.

Another case of "it depends".
I can tell you without a doubt, that 100WPC will be plenty of power for the Lore in even massive rooms. I use a SET tube amp that outputs less than 10W class A. I can drive these loud enough using that to be uncomfortable, without distortion. 100w would be super high with these.
 
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Welcome to the Loki Max club
@dieslemat We are making you the Grand Poobah of the Loki Max Club, you get to design our ornamental hats!

@neoaudiophyte No word yet regarding more and better Lokis. The Grand Poobah and I have been waiting, mostly patiently, to throw money at Schiit for the fully balanced version. With balance control.
 
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I'm VERY excited for Unison, since my music is almost always going to my DAC through USB. The feature I'm really hoping makes it into all Unison products is 0 mA power draw from the source, either by having it powered internally, or by having a dedicated 5v input like Modi 3 or Fulla 2. I honestly can't stress enough how much I love that feature. I use my phone as my source 99% of the time when I'm listening to music, so having it work every time I plug it in without any hassle is a must. I know this problem can be solved for any DAC by using a cheap powered USB hub or something fancier like Wyrd... but I love how clean the setup is with my Modi 3 and I would love to see that trickle up to Schiit's higher end DACs. I have the cash put aside for a Bifrost for whenever it gets updated (at least with Unison) and I REALLY hope it has this feature.

This would also be an especially nice feature for the add-in cards in my opinion, because the whole point of those devices is having a seamless "all-in-one" experience. One of my dream Schiit products is a single ended Jotunheim with a Unison Multibit card (including the dedicated power input) for $400. This idea is based on the post Jason made a while ago about possible Asgard replacements.

Jotunheim is my favorite Schiit headphone amp and I love it paired with the Multibit add-in card, but the current model often gives my iPhone the "draws too much power" warning. Also, I don't need balanced operation and the DAC is single ended anyways.
 
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I'm VERY excited for Unison, since my music is almost always going to my DAC through USB. The feature I'm really hoping makes it into all Unison products is 0 mA power draw from the source, either by having it powered internally, or by having a dedicated 5v input like Modi 3 or Fulla 2. I honestly can't stress enough how much I love that feature. I use my phone as my source 99% of the time when I'm listening to music, so having it work every time I plug it in without any hassle is a must. I know this problem can be solved for any DAC by using a cheap powered USB hub or something fancier like Wyrd... but I love how clean the setup is with my Modi 3 and I would love to see that trickle up to Schiit's higher end DACs. I have the cash put aside for a Bifrost for whenever it gets updated (at least with Unison) and I REALLY hope it has this feature.

This would also be an especially nice feature for the add-in cards in my opinion, because the whole point of those devices is having a seamless "all-in-one" experience. One of my dream Schiit products is a single ended Jotunheim with a Unison Multibit card (including the dedicated power input) for $400. This idea is based on the post Jason made a while ago about possible Asgard replacements.

Jotunheim is my favorite Schiit headphone amp and I love it paired with the Multibit add-in card, but the current model often gives my iPhone the "draws too much power" warning. Also, I don't need balanced operation and the DAC is single ended anyways.

I believe Jason already addressed the power-draw from the new Unison USB solution:
Beyond that, it will also work with iOS and Android--power draw is below 100mA, so no separate power input needed.
 
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Hey guys,

A couple of quick answers:

1. What are we gonna do about the boards? We can spend a ton of time pointing fingers, or re-order and re-test. Guess what we're doing. Yeah, it'll be sorted later, all of our boards are essentially done by the same company, so they'll make it right if it's a real problem.

2. Bigger Lokis? Maybe someday. It's not a super high priority, I'm afraid. I've figured out how to do a chassis that doesn't cost a fortune and allows us to do an affordable step-up Loki, which makes a more-bands or parametric version feasible. The crazy all-out, 4-figure, relay-stepped one is still on the back burner because it's pretty niche. Basically, 2019 is done for new product intros, and it doesn't have a Loki in it. Ask me again in 2020.

Now, back to it. Wrangling Aegir put a big dent in my schedule (this weekend was supposed to be the catch-up time, but it turned out to put me more behind.) No worries, the stuff I was trying to catch up on was the fun kind of work (new development). Well, new development minus the BOMs and the kits--too much stuff simply isn't assemblable by us anymore, so it has to go to to the PCB assemblers for prototyping, which front-loads some of the boring stuff.

All the best,
Jason
 
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Hey guys,

A couple of quick answers:

1. What are we gonna do about the boards? We can spend a ton of time pointing fingers, or re-order and re-test. Guess what we're doing. Yeah, it'll be sorted later, all of our boards are essentially done by the same company, so they'll make it right if it's a real problem.

2. Bigger Lokis? Maybe someday. It's not a super high priority, I'm afraid. I've figured out how to do a chassis that doesn't cost a fortune and allows us to do an affordable step-up Loki, which makes a more-bands or parametric version feasible. The crazy all-out, 4-figure, relay-stepped one is still on the back burner because it's pretty niche. Basically, 2019 is done for new product intros, and it doesn't have a Loki in it. Ask me again in 2020.

Now, back to it. Wrangling Aegir put a big dent in my schedule (this weekend was supposed to be the catch-up time, but it turned out to put me more behind.) No worries, the stuff I was trying to catch up on was the fun kind of work (new development). Well, new development minus the BOMs and the kits--too much stuff simply isn't assemblable by us anymore, so it has to go to to the PCB assemblers for prototyping, which front-loads some of the boring stuff.

All the best,
Jason
Beware of Murphy on your shoulder---he does become more active around Saint Paddy's day, I guess he likes green beer to fuel his mischievousness.
 
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I believe Jason already addressed the power-draw from the new Unison USB solution:
I definitely took notice when he mentioned that earlier and forgot to address it in my last post. If the power draw is always below the appropriate threshold and works consistently with iOS and Android devices without any problems (like my Dragonfly does), then I definitely would consider that acceptable. Still, given that it doesn't seem too costly or difficult to implement, and given that Schiit has already deployed the technology, the additional USB input bringing power draw from the source down to 0 mA ensures the widest possible compatibility with different devices.
 
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Beware of Murphy on your shoulder---he does become more active around Saint Paddy's day, I guess he likes green beer to fuel his mischievousness.
Having cited Murphy's law, are you also familiar with Cole's law?

:beerchug::L3000:
 
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Jason as others have already asked, the question of “is Aegir right for me?” is obviously going to be a common question for many. I assume you plan to address this in the FAQ, or maybe right on the main page, for the product when it’s launched? Realizing it may not be a straight black and white answer of course. However, like your headamps, I’m sure you’ll get this question over and over.
 
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Jason as others have already asked, the question of “is Aegir right for me?” is obviously going to be a common question for many. I assume you plan to address this in the FAQ, or maybe right on the main page, for the product when it’s launched? Realizing it may not be a straight black and white answer of course. However, like your headamps, I’m sure you’ll get this question over and over.
The FAQ Guide already exists. They just need to update it:
https://www.schiit.com/guides/choosing-amps-preamps
"CHOOSING AMPS & PREAMPS
SYSTEMS FOR DRIVING SPEAKERS
New to the world of speaker amps and preamps? Unsure what you need? Confused by the options to integrate with home theater? Don't panic. We'll help explain:"
 
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rlow

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The FAQ Guide already exists. They just need to update it:
https://www.schiit.com/guides/choosing-amps-preamps
"CHOOSING AMPS & PREAMPS
SYSTEMS FOR DRIVING SPEAKERS
New to the world of speaker amps and preamps? Unsure what you need? Confused by the options to integrate with home theater? Don't panic. We'll help explain:"
Very cool, I didn’t even realize they had done this for the 2-channel stuff. It’s going to be critical to be upfront about this wrt Aegir.
 
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Hey guys,

A couple of quick answers:

1. What are we gonna do about the boards? We can spend a ton of time pointing fingers, or re-order and re-test. Guess what we're doing. Yeah, it'll be sorted later, all of our boards are essentially done by the same company, so they'll make it right if it's a real problem.

2. Bigger Lokis? Maybe someday. It's not a super high priority, I'm afraid. I've figured out how to do a chassis that doesn't cost a fortune and allows us to do an affordable step-up Loki, which makes a more-bands or parametric version feasible. The crazy all-out, 4-figure, relay-stepped one is still on the back burner because it's pretty niche. Basically, 2019 is done for new product intros, and it doesn't have a Loki in it. Ask me again in 2020.

Now, back to it. Wrangling Aegir put a big dent in my schedule (this weekend was supposed to be the catch-up time, but it turned out to put me more behind.) No worries, the stuff I was trying to catch up on was the fun kind of work (new development). Well, new development minus the BOMs and the kits--too much stuff simply isn't assemblable by us anymore, so it has to go to to the PCB assemblers for prototyping, which front-loads some of the boring stuff.

All the best,
Jason
Hi Jason,

Thank you for the update regarding the future of Loki.
 

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