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You should seek help ASAP, dude
I disagree completely.
It is quality over quantity. If your speakers are very efficient you will likely get significantly better sound out of a properly designed lower wattage Class A amp than you will with a much higher wattage class A/B amp. That said yes it is true that Class A amps tend to drive speakers better at the same wattage. Go to the Music Direct site and look at the Luxman integrated amplifiers. The most expensive Luxman is a lower powered amp. Some of the less expensive Luxmans have more watts. It is not difficult to design a high powered amp that is reasonably priced. What is difficult is to design one that sounds good. This review of a low powered Luxman may give some insight:
If Jason and the Schiit team have designed Class A amp at 20wpc that has serious delivery on sound quality for under $1k it will be quite an accomplishment. Granted they will not be a good match for some speakers like Magnepans but if you have ZUs, Tektons, Spatials, Klipsch, or another high efficiency speaker it could be a great match and potentially better than the Vidar.
The reality is that smaller book shelf speakers tend to have lower efficiency in order to deliver any kind of bass extension. More efficient speakers are often larger.
Very well put. Its all a set of compromises. If I had Maggies I would get the higher powered Vidar for sure. Maggies just seems to do things no other speaker can quite do. My Dad has a pair of 3.7i Maggies being driven by a 500 wpc Musical Fidelity amp with NuVista tubes. Sounds amazing.
It's probably most sensible to think in terms of how much *output power* into whatever given load impedance 4, 6, 8 ohms, etc an amplifier will produce and still remain in Class-A. At whatever point the individual tube/s or transistor/s comprising the power output stage begin to turn-off for a portion of each 360 degree wave cycle, then that amplifier stage has transitioned out of Class-A operation.
Another interesting fact: the tube/s or transistor/s comprising a Class-A amplification stage actually dissipate the most power, and therefore generate the most heat, when the amp is at a zero signal condition. So yeah, when no music is playing, the amplification devices are running hottest! As the level of the audio (music) being amplified is increased, in tandem, progressively less power is being dissipated within the Class-A output tube/s or Transistor/s and proportionally this power is transfered to the load (loudspeaker). So, a Class-A amp actually runs a cooler as the output level is progressively cranked-up towards maximum rated output (volume/SPL)!
There are various clever 'sliding bias' and/or bias servo schemes that some manufacturers have implemented in an effort to increase the range/ wattage of an amplifier's Class-A output without causing the amplifier to exceed it's static dissipation ratings (aka: burn up!) but only varying degrees of success and various real caveats are attendant with such approaches.
Regarding the questions about the BA-3 amplifiers you mention: I simply don't have knowledge of the circuit/design of this amplifier, and so apologize I cannot answer your question. If I had time today to take a glance at it I would, but unfortunately I do not. Sorry about that.
Mine is the Security Gateway Pro model: USG-PRO-4
the full setup is
USG-PRO-4 which feeds a Unifi switch 16 150W where it goes to my Access Point UAP-AC-PRO and a small switch in the office Unifi switch 8. This is the backbone and everything connects to 1 of the 2 switches, depending on where it is, or the AP.
Or, Bayesian probability theory ...
Retire in Franklin, TN ... well, we have expectations ...
#1 - only friendly people considered.
#2 - attend our HP meets, see #1.
PM me and I will send an application form .
Looks like we got an answer ...
I have had my hearing tested. I can’t hear a damn thing above 10k and my hearing response is “U” shaped. Loki makes more sense in my situation than a fancier amplifier would.
I'm sure this situation and many variants of it are pretty common for a lot of us folks. Loki makes a lot of sense for those people chasing the Holy Grail of ruler-flat response -- or for that matter, not-so-flat response!
To my way of thinking, if you enjoy the music with a boost/cut in bass, mids, or treble, more power to you! If ruler-flat's your thing...ditto!
I tend to like different sound signatures and hence own a variety of headphone brands/models that often sound better with some music genres more than others. Some of these cans are 'reference-level'. Others...not so much. That said, I can get as much enjoyment from Senns/Beyers as I do from Audeze/HiFiMan as I do from Fostex/Denon. Heck, every once in a while, I still throw on my Grado SR60s and they still engage me if the music/mood is right.
From Elnrik at *somewhereelse*
What Jason had to say about the button on the front:
“The button on the front of Aegir de-biases the output stage and puts the amp in a “standby” mode, yes. It takes idle power down from 200W or so to 15W or so. I think. I haven’t actually measured that for the specs yet.
But yes, we actually did something that made ergonomic sense. Please do not fall out of your chairs. I’m sure we’ll continue to screw up plenty of other things in the future.
Oh, and the LEDs are dim, since we’re using light pipes.
I’ll probably have a full chapter up on Aegir this week, after I recover from the show.”