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Sorry for the duplicate post, I see Oklahoma beat me to it!
^This, I was in the same place just a bit ago, I needed a new powerful amp for my living room 2 channel.
Didn't have the money for Freya and 2 Vidar, and I want this new Schiit amp or 2 more anyway.
So I bought a Anthem i225 dam near NOS off flebay, nice price and is giving me pleasure today.
Being used I can always sell it for not much loss, and I might not it rocks.
But this gives me time to wait for something better/different and enjoy today.
Go for it! That's why the DIs and the Vidar/Freya combo are in the living room now. Enjoy it whilst thy may........
Thank you, Tom. That info is very helpful, for me.
This has probably been answered a thousand times but....
So using the example of a Aegir (with the specs we know at this time), when is the amp in Class A and when something else (ABish)?
Details/Conditions: What I mean is if it is class A at all it is running all out all the time right? An Aegir, Vidar, First Watt F5, BA-3 balanced, you pick your amp. None of these have a potentiometer or a switch to turn portions on/off or up/down (except inside a class B? transistor). Is it the "volume" level (current and voltage) of the source aka preamp signal that determines how hard the transistors in a Class AB are working and if they leave class A mode? for AB?
I think the answer is that the Aegir AB circuit (or is it an AB transistor (are transistors an Amp class or is it the circuit or both?) runs class A until it hits a certain level (wattage?, voltage?, current?, temperature?) and then begins "switching?"
I ask so that I may be further enlightened, by putting it this way hopefully I'll get it.
Bonus points if you can describe the BA-3 Balanced mono-blocks (feedback less front end gain board with complementary output boards) amp class operation and whether they are always class A or if they do switch into AB. I think it is A all the time but if you pump 32V+- out of the PSU and run balanced into 4 ohms I think you are getting something like 245watts out of a balance monoblock with like 500watts of heat ?? For reference I'm talking a balanced build of the lower right quadrant of this link.
It just hit me. Is it the bias setting variable resistors (at least in a BA-3) aka potentiometers?
Edit: BTW I've tried asking some different questions on the DIYaudio forums with no response at all or I would have asked there. Plus we already seemed to be on this topic; I wouldn't ever want to be accused of derailing this forum off topic.
I certainly am looking forward to @Jason Stoddard giving us the run down on the particulars of this design.
Thinking sometime in the next week. Obviously he's kinda busy at the moment.
That's the balancing act right? If needs are met (is any upgrade in audio gear truly needed), when do we give in to the wants? My personality is satisfied for years by purchasing quality "wants".
If time and money are not a factor then wants prevail. If time or money is limited then we should only pay attention to needs. But since we are enthusiasts sometimes that distinction is blurred.
In my case the need/want thing is mainly to unlock the potential of the gear I already have.
Unfortunately I can't unhear the improvements already made on this trip. If each step is a perceived improvement I feel justified.
My wife does not agree.
Yep. For example, my 5-channel Butler amp was having issues and I had to send it in for repair. Thus I had a real "need" for a temporary replacement. I could have swapped in an older Emotiva amp I have in my garage, but I wanted to buy a used Sunfire Theater Grand I spied on line. I gave in to my "wants".
Derail THIS thread. I love this thread BECAUSE it exhibits so much Brownian motion!
It is like the best Geek Cocktail Party EVER!
Just another perspective -- First...find some speakers you really like and then buy the proper amp for them. There are many great speakers at a wide variety of efficiency levels....but the greatest speaker is the one that sounds best to your ears!
If for some reason, you love the sound of a pair of highly efficient speakers, then by all means get a low wattage, Class A/Continuity/etc. amp...if that floats your boat.
However, if you love the sound of some less efficient speakers, then buy them and a good sounding non-Class A (A/B, etc.) amp that has the headroom to properly drive them! You'll likely never know the difference between the amp classes.
I don't do stereo speaker setups any more but would probably look at planar (inefficient) speakers again if I chose to get back into this. For these speakers, I'm guessing I'd be much happier with the Vidar than the Aegir. My $.02
FWIW, I keep thinking a Vidar and set of Maggies w/Sub would be an interesting combo for the music that I spend the most time listening to.
Or you could end up like me, and have multiple pairs of speakers and need both. :-D