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+1 ...and that would schiitholes without the additional “I” ^_^
Interestingly I own 2 non Schiit integrated amps and neither has a ground pin in the IEC socket.
I’ve also seen exceptions, but that looks really peculiar if an appliance is connected to a voltage higher than 50 V and has exposed metal parts. I’d rather be safe than sorry.
I had the same thing, once you hear a sound it is almost impossible to stop hearing it unfortunately...
That argument misses two key points: 1) some of us favor music that is not amplified or only lightly amplified in live performance; 2) the analog/physical environment downstream of any class D amplification in a live performance is very different from the environment in home listening, especially with headphones. Because of its switching nature, class D perceived quality depends on downstream filtering/component frequency response/analog nonlinearities. I used to have a (high end) class D amp (BelCanto) that did well with the speakers I had (KEF LS50 and then KEF Reference 1s), but sounded shrill with headphones. I don't know for sure whether that was a class D artifact, but my current class AB amp does not behave that way.
Saw this on my FB page .. I clearly spend too much time listening to Schiit and I've been rumbled ! OK, so the spelling is different ... it's European !
Class D amps are relying on an inductive load to be provided by the speaker and/or crossover network. This inductance is needed to form a low pass filter to reject the switching noise present in its output. Without that inductive load (eg with headphones) they can sound pretty bad.
It's a class-D amp! and a microwave oven! and an eyeball frier!
It is interesting, I'm certainly limited in my knowledge of such things, but half my gear has no ground pin, these are not low power devices either.
Subwoofers that can draw 1000 watts, an integrated that can draw 1200 watts, and one that can draw 800 or so.
Then there's Yggy and the Jot, 30 and 15 watts respectively, and they are both grounded. Everything I own is immune from hum or power line noise or I'd freak.
I do use DC offset filters on most everything.
I think the steady power from our nuclear power plant just 25 miles away doesn't hurt, I have very stable power usually.
I do think you have presented some interesting thoughts. I apologize if my own ruminations, as stated, sounded like a blanket refutation of your ideas expressed --that, I did not intend.
There's a habit I have of thinking out loud --for better, or for worse.
There also remains the concern that if a company tries to roll-out too ambitious 'all-in-one' products, then they have to consider how this will likely effect the value perception of other existing stand-alone products in their lineup. People start thinking: "why should I buy the "XYZ" separates, if I can buy the "XYZ" all-in-one unit and save money?" or "How are the separates better performing *enough* that I can justify the extra expenditure?".
I think it's easy to "open up a can of worms" from a marketing perspective if one isn't very careful to consider how new individual products mesh (or clash) with one's other products. Last thing I'd want is for one product in my lineup to undercut the desirability of other products in my lineup, and/or cause buyer confusion.
Case in point: I know of a specific company which makes an absolutely stellar tube power amplifier which is around $20k. IMO, the product was under-promoted/ under-marketed from the beginning, and so when sales didn't take off as hoped, they designed a second product, a *much* cheaper entry-level amplifier (with upgrade options a-la-carte) which has exactly the same tube line-up and power output rating as their $20k flagship amp --but the price is only around $2k!
Now... I know the $2k amp does not have the same level of refinement as their $20k amp. The power supply, output transformers, volume control, etc etc etc of their $20k unit are of much higher grade than their $2K amp. Nonetheless, the $2k amp delivers approximately 80% of the virtue of the $20k amp for about 1/10th the price. In truth, the $2k amp is clearly seriously under-priced, and they surely make very little money per-unit on the amp given that the margin above the costs of parts and materials is obviously quite slim.
The thinking, I have been told, is that the $2K amp will be a promotional "loss leader", and a gateway of sorts to get people interested in the $20k amp. Frankly, I believe this is a major blunder. There is simply very little *product differentiation* between the expensive and the inexpensive amplifier. I believe the budget amp will only degrade the mystique of the more expensive amp, and steer sales towards the lower price bracket of the $2k amp --which is not a money maker. I can't imagine how this *very* small company would ever be able to build the cheaper amps fast enough, even with optional upgrades, to make any money.
I don't want to present myself as some kind of a marketing savant --I'm certainly not. Again, just thinking out loud...
I live in South Georgia, USA. I am originally from New Jersey. I am married to a woman from south Georgia. She loves grits. I told her that they were only suitable as building material----mortar for brick. She is still eating grits and speaking to me.
Just between you and me -- is that a good thing or not?
Sometimes we give.
Sometimes we take.
My dearest dear Constanza likes Kenny G and snores like a 500 pound brick layer.
Still I love her very much.
A lot of professional gear has a ground lift switch which does that same thing. I’ve had to trouble shoot stereos by using an adapter (easily bought at Home Depot) to go from 3 pin to 2 pin. I have often tried that at home, and it has usually worked and never killed me. YMMV.
EDIT: Back when I started in on this hobby, the received wisdom was that you only had one piece of gear that was grounded. Everything else had a floating ground. That way the floating ground would stabilize to the one piece of gear that was grounded and eliminate ground loop hum.
As a result of that received wisdom, we figured out lots of ways to convert gear from three pins to two pin, including ripping the pin off of a power bar plug so you could plug in three pin gear but still have ground lift.
Try lifting the ground pin. Most devices did not have 3 wire cords in the 70s and 80s, and many do not now. See what works for you. Roadies for musical groups go through this grounding barn dance at each gig.