Samsung HDTV "click of death" DIY repair
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MikeyFresh

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  Hello, I am having the same situation with Samsung UA46D7000. My warranty is expired, but anyway, I call samsung to take a look which charged me HKD 500. The guy just open the case and take a look without any testing and say, the click sound is due to the problem of the main screen and tell me nothing wrong with the power supply board.
 
He insist that if the power supply board have problem, the screen will be on but with some kind of wrong color and it must be the main screen that generate the click sound. So he ask me to replace the main screen, which is HKD 8930 (at the time 2016 May). And it is more expensive than buying a new one.
 
Sure I won't replace the main screen, because the samsung guy is obviously cheating me and I am going to complain to consumer council. However, I saw those cap on the power supply board have no leaking and no swell up. What do you think about it? 

What is the date of manufacture for your set?
 
I see that your model number isn't included in the U.S. settlement Samsung agreed to, but that doesn't mean your set isn't similar and/or suffering from the same kind of problem.
 
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darnold1965

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I replaced om my caps and I still get the relay clicking noise.    Any suggestion on what I should replace next?
 
Thank you
 
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MikeyFresh

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  I replaced om my caps and I still get the relay clicking noise.    Any suggestion on what I should replace next?
 
Thank you

Is your set one of the model #s in the original Class Action settlement?
 
If not you may have a different problem.
 
Did you test the caps prior to removing them and determine if any had shorted out?
 
If not, do you still have the caps you removed, and can test them with a multimeter? 
 
Lastly, depending on the exact model # of your set, are there other electrolytic caps on the power supply board that you haven't replaced? If so test them too.
 
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darnold1965

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Hello 
 
Thanks  for the reply.  I have a LN46A630MIF    model code LN46A630M1FXZA.  I did not test them before removing.  I just tested them now and they all seam good when I tested them with a  DVM.  Any other suggestions would be great. 
 
PS is a BN444-00203A  Rev 1.3
 
Thanks again
 
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MikeyFresh

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  Hello 
 
Thanks  for the reply.  I have a LN46A630MIF    model code LN46A630M1FXZA.  I did not test them before removing.  I just tested them now and they all seam good when I tested them with a  DVM.  Any other suggestions would be great. 
 
PS is a BN444-00203A  Rev 1.3
 
Thanks again

So it certainly appears you have a set that fits the model # and even the board part # that was known faulty.
 
When you test the caps, you test for continuity and there is none?
 
In all cases for each of the 4 sets I've repaired, either 2 or 4 of those caps had continuity between their + and - poles, which they shouldn't, they had shorted out.
 
These were always the caps right along that large heat sink, 4 in a row.
 
The parts repair kit always contained 7 caps from that region of the board, but I never had to use all 7, only a maximum of 4 along the heat sink.
 
Is it possible one or more of the other electrolytic caps on the board in that region have failed? Test them for continuity between poles, they should have none. Look for signs of any cap on the board that is bulging at the top, a sure indicator it has failed.
 
I'm having trouble imagining you have a different problem with this known to be faulty board, but it is possible there is a bad diode, transistor, etc... tough to say for sure.
 
Also test your repair, you can use any ground plane area on the board and there should be continuity with your newly installed caps' negative pole. For the positive pole, look at the legend for the ribbon cable pin out along the upper right hand side of the board and make continuity with the repair caps' positive pole and some positive pin on that ribbon cable.
 
With all testing, remove the board from the TV after it has been unplugged and allowed a bit of time to dissipate any remaining stored capacitance for safety purposes. If you already knew that great, but I have to say it to be sure.
 
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darnold1965

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Hello again and thanks.
 
I think I found my issue with location CM858 based on your help.  CM858 has  connectivity between + & - even with the cap removed,  Not good i believe,  I check all the solder joints around this location e with my eye piece and don't see any bad joints       It looks like I have a bad trace on the board as i can not tell where the positive side if CM858 goes :frowning2: .
 
Thanks for your help. as I believe this board is shot!
 
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MikeyFresh

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  Hello again and thanks.
 
I think I found my issue with location CM858 based on your help.  CM858 has  connectivity between + & - even with the cap removed,  Not good i believe,  I check all the solder joints around this location e with my eye piece and don't see any bad joints       It looks like I have a bad trace on the board as i can not tell where the positive side if CM858 goes :frowning2: .
 
Thanks for your help. as I believe this board is shot!

Thats too bad and I'm sorry to hear that, not sure how or why that would happen.
 
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