rotary switch for maxed out diy switchbox
Feb 13, 2007 at 2:10 PM Post #2 of 21
Quote:

Originally Posted by ferencvaros /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Any ideas/other candidates ?
Thanks



DACT.

This is a controversial issue, but I think anything past Elma, is overkill.
 
Feb 13, 2007 at 9:07 PM Post #3 of 21
Make sure when wiring up your switchbox that you use shielded wire. I made a hefty switchbox, but I only used plain old hook-up wire from ratshack, and the distortion is pretty bad. It's still sitting on my workbench, because I haven't had the time to rewire everything.
 
Feb 16, 2007 at 7:24 AM Post #4 of 21
Goldpoint are nothing more than elma clones. Elma are the best. I like them better than DACT. Elma are made by the swiss....the same country where they make rolex, tag heuer, and omega watches! DACT are made by the danish...you do the math...the danes can stick to making those delightful breakfast treats and leave the rotary switches to the big boys please!
 
Feb 16, 2007 at 8:13 AM Post #5 of 21
Quote:

Originally Posted by picklgreen /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Goldpoint are nothing more than elma clones. Elma are the best. I like them better than DACT. Elma are made by the swiss....the same country where they make rolex, tag heuer, and omega watches! DACT are made by the danish...you do the math...the danes can stick to making those delightful breakfast treats and leave the rotary switches to the big boys please!


Umm, you are quite prejudiced...?

DACT is a very reputable company which produce high quality products. Their stepped attenuators has been embraced by many and many DIYers and commercial companies. Their added price/quality ratio is, of course, another issue, but definately a quality product.
 
Feb 16, 2007 at 8:28 AM Post #6 of 21
Quote:

Originally Posted by picklgreen /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Goldpoint are nothing more than elma clones. Elma are the best. I like them better than DACT. Elma are made by the swiss....the same country where they make rolex, tag heuer, and omega watches! DACT are made by the danish...you do the math...the danes can stick to making those delightful breakfast treats and leave the rotary switches to the big boys please!


Yes, quite uncalled for.

Quote:

Originally Posted by bperboy /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Make sure when wiring up your switchbox that you use shielded wire. I made a hefty switchbox, but I only used plain old hook-up wire from ratshack, and the distortion is pretty bad. It's still sitting on my workbench, because I haven't had the time to rewire everything.


I assume you would connect the shield to the grounds to act like just an extension of a cable? (Unbalanced RCA)
Here's what I'm thinking:
Code:

Code:
[left]<--------cable--------><RCA><----Inside Switchbox----> R___________________________________________________ L___________________________________________________ G___________________________________________________ S_|_________________________|_________________________[/left]

Where the verticals line represents a connection between shield and ground.
 
Feb 16, 2007 at 3:30 PM Post #7 of 21
Electroswitch C4 Series

Sealed contacts,silver plated,built like a brick crap house,has some real "BEEF" so will add mass to a small switch box preventing it from being overpowered by the cables connected to the back causing it to tip up in the front or worse and finally way cheaper than the above.

c4lg.gif


747-6700.jpg


http://www.mouser.com/catalog/629/1377.pdf
 
Feb 16, 2007 at 4:44 PM Post #9 of 21
can anyone point me to a schematic on how to wire a switch like rickcr42 just posted? i'm a total newb with these things but would like to build my own switchbox as well. i guess i'm just not understanding how exactly the switch is working.
 
Feb 16, 2007 at 5:19 PM Post #10 of 21
Typically each deck is used for its own signal (but not necessarily). For example, if you wanted to switch a stereo signal including seperate L and R grounds using a 4-pole switch, you would wire the signal input to the C1 terminal indicated in the drawings in Rick's linked .pdf. Output 1 would then go out terminal n depending upon the switch position. Multiple poles on the same deck can also be used. Say for the same example above, you only need to switch up to 6 outputs... you could order a 2 poles/deck 2 deck switch and make the 1st deck L channel and the 2nd deck R channel. L in would go to C1 on the first deck, L gnd to C2, and the outputs of these from their respective terminals (C1 outputs to 1-6, C2 to 7-12). Get a meter and ohm it out
eek.gif


Oh, also these typically have limit pins to limit the number of outputs that you can switch to... a 6 position can be limited to 2,3,4,5 or 6 clicks.
 
Feb 16, 2007 at 7:36 PM Post #11 of 21
Quote:

Originally Posted by Pars /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Typically each deck is used for its own signal (but not necessarily). For example, if you wanted to switch a stereo signal including seperate L and R grounds using a 4-pole switch, you would wire the signal input to the C1 terminal indicated in the drawings in Rick's linked .pdf. Output 1 would then go out terminal n depending upon the switch position. Multiple poles on the same deck can also be used. Say for the same example above, you only need to switch up to 6 outputs... you could order a 2 poles/deck 2 deck switch and make the 1st deck L channel and the 2nd deck R channel. L in would go to C1 on the first deck, L gnd to C2, and the outputs of these from their respective terminals (C1 outputs to 1-6, C2 to 7-12). Get a meter and ohm it out
eek.gif


Oh, also these typically have limit pins to limit the number of outputs that you can switch to... a 6 position can be limited to 2,3,4,5 or 6 clicks.



i appreciate the info. i think i'm getting it. i do have a meter and will certainly be using it to make sure i wire up correctly. i just need to get an understanding going in so i pick the right switch.
 
Feb 17, 2007 at 12:15 AM Post #12 of 21
one of the clearest and least confusing selector switch schemas there is

http://www.goldpt.com/schm_pls.html

If you break down a two pole rotary switch into a single channel at a time the concept is easier to grasp being no more than a main contact pointing to one of "X" input signal connections with "X" being the number of positions or better yet take your left hand,splay all five fingers open-this is the "positions"

now using your index finger of your right hand count off the five fingers.You index finger is the "Pole" so would be a 5 position 1 Pole rotary selector.Double that and you have a stereo switch so would be 5 positions again but having two poles (one for each channel)
 

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