Review: ZERO 24 BIT/192KHz DAC/Headphone Amp/Pre-Amp
Jul 3, 2008 at 6:15 AM Post #4,066 of 9,388
Quote:

Originally Posted by ciphercomplete /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I'll be making my first attempt at an adapter tomorrow. I did a couple of trial soldering runs yesterday and it shouldn't be difficult at all. I have two extra opamp pin bases, one for each end of the adapter, so I can avoid directly soldering wires to the HDAM or directly into the Zero. I didn't want to lose the ability to one day use regular opamps if I get the urge.

If I am successful I will post what I did within a couple days along with a comparison between the HDAM w/o the adapter and the HDAM with it.



Thanks. I actually did a quick google for the burson opamp 101 page mentioned earlier and found - Burson discrete Opamp 101 - which also has some images of extensions.

BursonOpamp101.JPG
[p]
BursonOpampExt2.JPG
[p]
BursonOpampExt5.JPG

 
Jul 3, 2008 at 1:21 PM Post #4,068 of 9,388
Quote:

Originally Posted by Pricklely Peete /img/forum/go_quote.gif
By all means try a good after market power cable on the Zero and your amp (if you have one). I'm using John Risch DIY designs. Cheap at 35 dollars each and very effective upgrades.

Peete.



I don't get... which benefits a power cable brings to zero !?
 
Jul 3, 2008 at 2:37 PM Post #4,069 of 9,388
With all this talk about the HDAM, wouldnt it be relatively easy to take it apart and look at how the pcb is laid out + what components it uses and make cheap clones ourselves?
 
Jul 3, 2008 at 8:13 PM Post #4,071 of 9,388
Quote:

Originally Posted by Enthusia /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Yeah sure if you want to solder like a ton of delicate hardware onto a pcb, just cross your fingers and hope it will work at the end.


I wouldn't say that they are delicate, from what I can see its just transistors and resistors; both of which are pretty durable. I mean anyone with decent soldering experience would be able to do it.
 
Jul 3, 2008 at 8:23 PM Post #4,072 of 9,388
Quote:

Originally Posted by ianp /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Thanks. I actually did a quick google for the burson opamp 101 page mentioned earlier and found - Burson discrete Opamp 101 - which also has some images of extensions.

BursonOpamp101.JPG
[p]
BursonOpampExt2.JPG
[p]
BursonOpampExt5.JPG





Well I finished it. It wasn't that hard considering that this was my first real soldering job. With that said I will probably order a couple more opamp bases and make another one. I had the basic skill of soldering down but I didn't truly "get it" until I was halfway through making this adapter. So in couple of days I will make a stronger, faster, prettier one lol and maybe get some rubber shrink instead of using bootleg electrical tape.

I won't post too many pics because it basically looks like the one you see above except I have my HDAM plugged into a spare opamp pin base instead of directly soldering wires to it.

I found no discernable differences in sound between when my HDAM is plugged straight into the Zero compared to using the adapter (which is all you can hope for). I am still A/Bing though so if I notice a difference between the two setups I will post the details.

Here are some pics.

s5001584ns9.jpg
s5001585ej6.jpg

s5001587xt0.jpg
 
Jul 3, 2008 at 10:27 PM Post #4,073 of 9,388
Quote:

Originally Posted by ciphercomplete /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Well I finished it. It wasn't that hard considering that this was my first real soldering job. With that said I will probably order a couple more opamp bases and make another one. I had the basic skill of soldering down but I didn't truly "get it" until I was halfway through making this adapter. So in couple of days I will make a stronger, faster, prettier one lol and maybe get some rubber shrink instead of using bootleg electrical tape.

I won't post too many pics because it basically looks like the one you see above except I have my HDAM plugged into a spare opamp pin base instead of directly soldering wires to it.

I found no discernable differences in sound between when my HDAM is plugged straight into the Zero compared to using the adapter (which is all you can hope for). I am still A/Bing though so if I notice a difference between the two setups I will post the details.

Here are some pics.
snip



First, excellent job! My hats off to you for jumping in with both feet!!
smily_headphones1.gif

I feel much better about ordering mine now.
smily_headphones1.gif

Are you going to make a stand of some sort, for it to lay in and have air flow considerations too? I've been thinking about this, but nothing concrete has popped up yet.
smily_headphones1.gif
 
Jul 3, 2008 at 11:12 PM Post #4,074 of 9,388
Quote:

Originally Posted by Penchum /img/forum/go_quote.gif
First, excellent job! My hats off to you for jumping in with both feet!!
smily_headphones1.gif

I feel much better about ordering mine now.
smily_headphones1.gif

Are you going to make a stand of some sort, for it to lay in and have air flow considerations too? I've been thinking about this, but nothing concrete has popped up yet.
smily_headphones1.gif



Yeah, I haven't come up with anything yet. I don't quite know where to put it within the case. Whatever I come up with will be very low tech though lol.

The HDAM doesn't get too hot FWIW, not nearly as hot as my regular opamps.
 
Jul 3, 2008 at 11:35 PM Post #4,075 of 9,388
Quote:

Originally Posted by ciphercomplete /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Yeah, I haven't come up with anything yet. I don't quite know where to put it within the case. Whatever I come up with will be very low tech though lol.

The HDAM doesn't get too hot FWIW, not nearly as hot as my regular opamps.



I can confirm this as well. Just gets warm, nothing more. Nice job on the jumpers cipher
smily_headphones1.gif


Peete.
 
Jul 3, 2008 at 11:40 PM Post #4,076 of 9,388
Quote:

Originally Posted by P_1 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
With all this talk about the HDAM, wouldnt it be relatively easy to take it apart and look at how the pcb is laid out + what components it uses and make cheap clones ourselves?


You can't match the transistors and other components cold (as in off the shelf). They have to be matched after burn in and when powered up. Check out Burson Audio site for the details. It's way more involved than one would think.

Peete.
 
Jul 4, 2008 at 12:29 AM Post #4,077 of 9,388
Quote:

Originally Posted by Pricklely Peete /img/forum/go_quote.gif
You can't match the transistors and other components cold (as in off the shelf). They have to be matched after burn in and when powered up. Check out Burson Audio site for the details. It's way more involved than one would think.

Peete.



According to some of the information in this thread, Burson Audio buys their HDAM's from some manufacturer in China. I would assume the transistor matching they are talking about is ********.
 
Jul 4, 2008 at 12:52 AM Post #4,078 of 9,388
Quote:

Originally Posted by P_1 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
According to some of the information in this thread, Burson Audio buys their HDAM's from some manufacturer in China. I would assume the transistor matching they are talking about is ********.


Yes they are sourced from the same OEM in China that Lawrence gets his modules from. Burson are talking about the manufacturing process for these modules which they either saw first hand on a business trip or were supplied with this information to post on their web page.
Lawrence provided the info to me by email, that Burson was getting the modules from the same plant in China that he gets for his Zero customers. Jack (Burson Audio rep) neither confirmed nor denied this in emails back and forth between him and I a few months back. The transistor matching Burson talks about IS critical to having a balanced L/R output in all respects. I'm sure the matching is being done just not at Burson. They can spec a part and have an OEM produce it off shore, call it their own, puff it up, maybe stretch the truth slightly...happens all the time. The darn thing works and works well, that is all that matters in the end
smily_headphones1.gif


Peete.
 
Jul 4, 2008 at 1:26 AM Post #4,079 of 9,388
Don't underestimate your soldering-fu. It looks pretty damn good to me!

Heat shrink may look a little better, but electrical tape pretty much does the same job and you can more easily remove should you have to. I'd assume that there is enough room to add some standoffs on the PCBs to lift them off the floor of the case?

Thanks


Quote:

Originally Posted by ciphercomplete /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Well I finished it. It wasn't that hard considering that this was my first real soldering job. With that said I will probably order a couple more opamp bases and make another one. I had the basic skill of soldering down but I didn't truly "get it" until I was halfway through making this adapter. So in couple of days I will make a stronger, faster, prettier one lol and maybe get some rubber shrink instead of using bootleg electrical tape.

s5001584ns9.jpg
s5001585ej6.jpg

s5001587xt0.jpg



 
Jul 4, 2008 at 1:33 AM Post #4,080 of 9,388
Quote:

Originally Posted by Nedman /img/forum/go_quote.gif
It would be handy if they or someone made an 100mm male/female extension lead.


Capital idea. I wonder if Lawrence could offer such things?
 

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