[NeonHD]

This iem cost me 6$ and with right music they have the amazing highs right after obravo eamt 2c

What!!! $6???? They're that cheap now? I bought three of them back when they were still priced around US $25, damn...

 

[NeonHD]

P.S. Do most people here listen to their MH1C unmodded? Cause the main reason why I ditched the MH1C was that the sound was too mellow and lacking energy, but then after completely removing the mesh filters on my third pair, it was like breathing life into the MH1C again. High-mids and lower to mid treble both became much more emphasized, and thus clarity was improved drastically. Vocals are now soooo incredibly clear and defined. The bass is also drastically reduced, only to be summoned when absolutely needed in tracks. The difference between modded vs unmodded MH1C was day and night. Just remember to use foam tips as they help tame the added sibilance of the mod. Heck, I don't even hear any harshness in their sound with stock eartips anymore (either cuz brain burn-in or the actual driver "retuning" itself).

This was my horribly amateur attempt at analyzing the FR curve of the modded (mesh-removed) MH1C:

Usually you'll find the main peak at 3Khz, but now it's shifted over to 6khz.

 

[JIMMY16]

P.S. Do most people here listen to their MH1C unmodded? Cause the main reason why I ditched the MH1C was that the sound was too mellow and lacking energy, but then after completely removing the mesh filters on my third pair, it was like breathing life into the MH1C again. High-mids and lower to mid treble both became much more emphasized, and thus clarity was improved drastically. Vocals are now soooo incredibly clear and defined. The bass is also drastically reduced, only to be summoned when absolutely needed in tracks. The difference between modded vs unmodded MH1C was day and night. Just remember to use foam tips as they help tame the added sibilance of the mod. Heck, I don't even hear any harshness in their sound with stock eartips anymore (either cuz brain burn-in or the actual driver "retuning" itself).

This was my horribly amateur attempt at analyzing the FR curve of the modded (mesh-removed) MH1C:

Usually you'll find the main peak at 3Khz, but now it's shifted over to 6khz.

P.S. Do most people here listen to their MH1C unmodded? Cause the main reason why I ditched the MH1C was that the sound was too mellow and lacking energy, but then after completely removing the mesh filters on my third pair, it was like breathing life into the MH1C again. High-mids and lower to mid treble both became much more emphasized, and thus clarity was improved drastically. Vocals are now soooo incredibly clear and defined. The bass is also drastically reduced, only to be summoned when absolutely needed in tracks. The difference between modded vs unmodded MH1C was day and night. Just remember to use foam tips as they help tame the added sibilance of the mod. Heck, I don't even hear any harshness in their sound with stock eartips anymore (either cuz brain burn-in or the actual driver "retuning" itself).

This was my horribly amateur attempt at analyzing the FR curve of the modded (mesh-removed) MH1C:

Usually you'll find the main peak at 3Khz, but now it's shifted over to 6khz.

I think they sound perfect unmodded. I much prefer them to my hd6xx's.

 

[kadaif]

Which material is best for mesh filter replacement? And glue?

 

[HAMS]

Here is mod idea, put mh1 on those cheap Bluetooth IEM. Mh1 is just the size of the nozzle on most of TWS IEM. Like I could replace my qcy t1 nozzle with mh1 body and I can still fit it in the case.

 

[grufferator]

I bought this one https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07PPXGQYW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Judging by the build quality and the fact that it doesn't work on Android (unless I keep the call button pressed) - it is genuine.
Can anyone confirm if this adapter will work? https://www.amazon.co.uk/3-5mm-Adap...ronics&sprefix=OMTp+to,electronics,129&sr=1-1

 

[grufferator]

This was my horribly amateur attempt at analyzing the FR curve of the modded (mesh-removed) MH1C:

Have tried with the mesh removed, and on Tool - Parabola, for example, the bass is non existent. Sound much better without any modification with rock/metal.

 

[NeonHD]

Have tried with the mesh removed, and on Tool - Parabola, for example, the bass is non existent. Sound much better without any modification with rock/metal.

Yeah the bass sounded non-existent at first, idk how but eventually the bass became a bit more forward. It's kind of like the Tin T2 where the bass only appears when needed. I could unmod them but I already lost the mesh filters. On certain tracks like instrumentals, the modded MH1 adds a pleasing brilliance to the sound.

 

[Scholle3000]

2 years ago, by chance, I myself had done this mod because a mesh had fallen out. Suddenly a new sound stage opened up. Even my Flare R2A are now falling behind.

 

[NOLA]

Have tried with the mesh removed, and on Tool - Parabola, for example, the bass is non existent. Sound much better without any modification with rock/metal.

I just tried the mod and tend to agree. I tend to prefer them unmodded because I prefer a warmer sound signature. But I do see why some people would prefer them modded.

 

[NOLA]

I am working on a recable stuff for this IEM and I think I would share how I can do it. Currently, I am waiting for the cable to arrive.
Not tested the sound, I listen to music a lot but tI am not an audiophile, so I will not concentrate on the sound changing. You may try and see what is changed.

What you need:
- 3x3cm Acrylic glass (Mica). If you can find a thick Mica panel (1cm, that would be awesome)
- A drill with 2 drill bits size: 3mm for cable and 5mm for housing.
- Sand paper
- Saw (whatever kind)
- Super glue

They look better outside. Images look terrible

Steps with layout image below:

1. Remove the old cable, only keep the metal housing. There are many threads show how to remove it.
2. Cut the acrylic panel to (1x 3cm) x 2 pieces if the thick is less than 0.5cm. One piece if the thick is around 1cm.
3. Use super glue to glue 2 cut acrylic panel to one. If you do it correctly, they will look like 1 piece of glass . If your acrylic panel has 1cm thick, no need to glue 2 piece, one piece is fine.
4. Use sand panel to make it round shaped heads.
5. Cut the acrylic piece into two pieces.
6. Drill holes for housing and wires
7. Make rings to plugin the housing. This step is important. You have to sand and try it with the housing to make sure the ring is not too small to the housing.
8. Finally, polishing the parts, make the parts look better.
9. Wiring. Maybe you can make the under hole bigger so you can use the MMCX.
10. Test the sound?

I know this is a really late reply, but I've seen a lot of people displeased with the original MH1C cable and put a lot of work into recabling it. If you run the cable under a shirt with a collar, the section with the microphone/buttons can be hooked over your shirt collar, which prevents the weight of the cable from pulling on the tips. Also, the original cables have minimal microphonics, and running the cable under a shirt further reduces any microphonics. I actually really like the cables, and think it's just a matter of wearing them a certain way.

And for what folks in New Orleans call Lagnaippe: after years of using these, I can't stress how well they pair with Shure olives/black foam sleeves (https://www.head-fi.org/threads/review-sony-mh1-–-the-best-kept-secret.632892/page-234#post-12032045). Great sound, mimimal occlusion effect/bone conduction, and pretty amazing noise isolation (as good or better than Etys, and without the really bad cable microphonics).

I just upgraded to a Galaxy S10+, and am quite pleased with the combination. The microphone consistently works, they sound pretty good with Poweramp, and three of the four buttons work with Poweramp. I occasionally look around for a better smartphone headset in terms of utility and sound quality, but haven't found one. As a result, I feel like the title of this forum thread still applies some seven years from its inception.

 

[luisdent]

I know this is a really late reply, but I've seen a lot of people displeased with the original MH1C cable and put a lot of work into recabling it. If you run the cable under a shirt with a collar, the section with the microphone/buttons can be hooked over your shirt collar, which prevents the weight of the cable from pulling on the tips. Also, the original cables have minimal microphonics, and running the cable under a shirt further reduces any microphonics. I actually really like the cables, and think it's just a matter of wearing them a certain way.

And for what folks in New Orleans call Lagnaippe: after years of using these, I can't stress how well they pair with Shure olives/black foam sleeves (https://www.head-fi.org/threads/review-sony-mh1-–-the-best-kept-secret.632892/page-234#post-12032045). Great sound, mimimal occlusion effect/bone conduction, and pretty amazing noise isolation (as good or better than Etys, minus the really bad cable microphonics).

I just upgraded to a Galaxy S10+, and am quite pleased with the combination. The microphone consistently works, they sound pretty good with Poweramp, and three of the four buttons work with Poweramp. I occasionally look around for a better smartphone headset in terms of utility and sound quality, but haven't found one. As a result, I feel like the title of this forum thread still applies some seven years from its inception.

I think they were originally meant to be worn behind the neck. This way you can take your earphones out and hang them on your chest. Good for workouts, etc. But the issue for me was less the J shape and more the flat cables. They are obnoxious to roll up into a small case.

 

[kova4a]

I know this is a really late reply, but I've seen a lot of people displeased with the original MH1C cable and put a lot of work into recabling it. If you run the cable under a shirt with a collar, the section with the microphone/buttons can be hooked over your shirt collar, which prevents the weight of the cable from pulling on the tips. Also, the original cables have minimal microphonics, and running the cable under a shirt further reduces any microphonics. I actually really like the cables, and think it's just a matter of wearing them a certain way.

And for what folks in New Orleans call Lagnaippe: after years of using these, I can't stress how well they pair with Shure olives/black foam sleeves (https://www.head-fi.org/threads/review-sony-mh1-–-the-best-kept-secret.632892/page-234#post-12032045). Great sound, mimimal occlusion effect/bone conduction, and pretty amazing noise isolation (as good or better than Etys, and without the really bad cable microphonics).

I just upgraded to a Galaxy S10+, and am quite pleased with the combination. The microphone consistently works, they sound pretty good with Poweramp, and three of the four buttons work with Poweramp. I occasionally look around for a better smartphone headset in terms of utility and sound quality, but haven't found one. As a result, I feel like the title of this forum thread still applies some seven years from its inception.

Don't forget kova4a's tape mode - it really helps a lot https://www.head-fi.org/threads/review-sony-mh1-–-the-best-kept-secret.632892/page-32#post-8835261

 

[NOLA]

I think they were originally meant to be worn behind the neck. This way you can take your earphones out and hang them on your chest. Good for workouts, etc. But the issue for me was less the J shape and more the flat cables. They are obnoxious to roll up into a small case.

Sorry, I should have specified that the cable is supposed to be worn behind the neck. I also got annoyed with fitting them in a small case and switched to using a zippered coin purse to store them.

 

[Pricklyears101]

Got them from a recommendation, and i gotta say, my iem journey has finally come full circle. Starting with the free iems that came with the Sony Ericsson walkman phones 15 years ago, to the timeless EX1K, to now the MH1C, it has been quite a journey. After listening to detailed analytical stuff for awhile, it's always nice to have warm sound sig to fall back on. And best of all, it isn't source picky like the ex1k. I can even plug it into sources i normally avoid with my ex1k like my ipod 5g and my laptop and they still sound good, perfect for non-critical listening sessions.