- Jun 5, 2015
- Cincinnati, Ohio USA
Thanks for the photos on the detachable cable mod, I'll be ordering the jack to do this mod
Also, what does the dynamat mod change (sound wise)?
On the original mod post you mentioned that you applied dynamat on the inside too, would that be on this part of the inner cups?
If I get to do the mods and not screw everything up, I might get a second pair to do this open headphones mod, to use at home
Thanks for all the photos!
Dynamat simply helps dampen/absorb any reflected harmonics and the resulting vibration. It helps make the cups thicker and more rigid. Think of a subwoofer made of sturdy plywood vs 1/8" thin plastic. Or how trunk mounted subwoofers rattle and vibrate the thin sheet metal of the car (dynamat's primary use).
As far as why I didn't put any dynamat in the inside of the cup, there were 2 reasons:
1. Being open in the back there's no solid back to reflect off of - it's all open. In a closed configuration everything is being reflected off of the bottom of the cup. Whether you actually hear harmonics really varies from headphone to headphone. The plastic in the SHL3300 is pretty beefy (I'd say 2.5mm-3mm thick).
2. There was simply no more room left, as can be seen here:
The strips of dynamat would have been 1/16" thick LOL.
But yes, in the original (closed) mod, I did do some small bits of dynamat in the bottom of the cup. But as you can see from this photo, you're still cramped for room due to the stock springs and plastic pins being in the way:
You end up with so little dynamat in the bottom it's probably not even worth it. I would honestly only bother with the top outside.
On a related note, to anyone considering this mod that may be concerned about the effect of removing the plastic pins/springs - I wouldn't even think twice about it. The only purpose they serve is to put slight pressure on the cup to help hold it in position when you flip the cup up for 'DJ use'. Without the springs, the cup freely rotates with gravity. And honestly, the springs never even worked that great for their intended purpose anyways, because my cups were always flopping around regardless. It's just useless crap in the way, otherwise we'd see them on every headphone out there. Philips should have just omitted them and dropped the price of the headphones by $3. There's no discernible difference (in ergonomics) between the stock modded SHL3300 (with the spring hardware) and the Fake-elio modded pair (without the spring hardware).
I also wanted to mention a thought I had about the grilles I used and the holes I cut in the headphones. In hindsight, instead of cutting down both grilles I bought to 40mm round, I could have simply cut a notch in the LEFT grille I bought like this:
Then I wouldn't have had to do anything to the right grille, and I could have made the holes I cut into both cups larger like this rendering:
Instead of this:
If I had done the larger setup, note the hole in the LEFT headphone cup would have to be carefully cut so as to preserve the plastic 'well' where the removable jack goes.
But with the way the grilles are pre-formed with a lip, they're designed to protrude through the tweeter mounting frame (or in this case the hole cut into the cup of the SHL3300). The result would have been a larger and more flush stock Fidelio grille look from the outside (vs a glued from the back look). Plus less cutting of the grilles for lazy people ;0) But either way works fine.