[scompton]

I have a short in the right ear cup when I move around or touch the cable near the ear cup. Someone in anther thread said that he heard that if you remove the cup from the head band, the cup comes apart. This didn't happen. I've looked under the ear pad, but no screws. Does anyone know how to take them apart?

 

[Carl]

Pull the headband off first. Then hold on to the platic back of the housing with one hand and the metal rim with the other hand, and pull them appart. They are only held together by friction. The driver is held in its trench by friction too, so you might need a fine screwdriver or other flat object to lever it out.

Internally they are very simple headphones. They're much simplier to pull to bits than a SR-Xmk3 or something.

Don't pull the earpads off, you can't get replacements.

 

[scompton]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Carl /img/forum/go_quote.gif Pull the headband off first. Then hold on to the platic back of the housing with one hand and the metal rim with the other hand, and pull them appart. They are only held together by friction. The driver is held in its trench by friction too, so you might need a fine screwdriver or other flat object to lever it out. Internally they are very simple headphones. They're much simplier to pull to bits than a SR-Xmk3 or something. Don't pull the earpads off, you can't get replacements.

The plastic back is only sticking out about a 1/8 inch. I can't get a grip on it. I'm afraid if I use a tool it will mar the plastic, or metal.

 

[Carl]

Quote:

Originally Posted by scompton /img/forum/go_quote.gif The plastic back is only sticking out about a 1/8 inch. I can't get a grip on it. I'm afraid if I use a tool it will mar the plastic, or metal.

In that case, find where they join and lever them appart.

 

[scompton]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Carl /img/forum/go_quote.gif In that case, find where they join and lever them appart.

I tried a small screwdriver that I could get below the metal ring far enough for damage to not show. The plastic only comes up another 1/8 and snaps right back.

I was able to get it clear by the cable and it looks like it's sticking where the head band attaches. Are the bushings for the head band part of the plastic back? It's acting that way when I try to pry it.

 

[Carl]

Quote:

Originally Posted by scompton /img/forum/go_quote.gif I tried a small screwdriver that I could get below the metal ring far enough for damage to not show. The plastic only comes up another 1/8 and snaps right back. I was able to get it clear by the cable and it looks like it's sticking where the head band attaches. Are the bushings for the head band part of the plastic back? It's acting that way when I try to pry it.

You're going to have to give me a photo so I can see what you're doing. SR-40s and -50s shouldn't be giving someone so much trouble to dismantle.

 

[scompton]

Here's the ear cup before I do anything

Here I'm trying to lever out the plastic. This is as far as it goes. When I take the screwdriver out it pops back into place.

 

[noseallinit]

the SR-40's are from 1979. I had the SR-34 and there were pins that held the band onto the drivers. you need to take that headband off first before you can take the cups apart. how? I cannot tell by this picture but they might just easily pull out. the headband on the SR-34 barely held on by the pins. they often fell out and I had to dig for them in me shag carpet.

http://www.stax.co.jp/OLD/Photo/SR40.jpg

do the SR-40 have the same pushpin connectors that you connect your speaker wire into? and a set of wires that go into your amp or receiver?

edit: I see the headband is off. you might need to pull the mounts off first where the headband was attached.

 

[Carl]

Quote:

Originally Posted by scompton /img/forum/go_quote.gif

I get ya. Try twisting the plastic part of the housing clockwise and anticlockwise a few times to loosen it (making sure you don't spin it so far your yank the wires in there), then hold it upside down while you try to pull it out. It looks like the plastic is slightly thicker than normal (manufacturing tollerances) which is what's making it stuck. If you have a vice or a clamp you could try putting the plastic in that while you twist the metal bit off.

 

[scompton]

I got it apart. I had to remove the bushings. It still wasn't easy and the bushings were not easy to get out. Here are some pics of the connections. Is the red thing a resistor? I'm not sure what it is or what it does but it looks OK. I don't really want to get the heat shrink off of the connection with the red wire.

Could the problem be the kink in the white wire circled in the pic below?

 

[Carl]

A silicon resistor, I do believe. It's used for overload protection, but simply not cranking the volume up too high works just as well.

 

[scompton]

With the ear cup taken apart, I can't get the static no matter how I play with the wires. I think it may be how the wires were packed in. I think I'm going to try to put it back together and see if it works.

 

[Carl]

Make sure the driver is perfectly flat when you reassemble it. If it's even 10 degrees off axis you'll get a pretty noticeable channel imbalance.

 

[ericj]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Carl /img/forum/go_quote.gif A silicon resistor, I do believe. It's used for overload protection, but simply not cranking the volume up too high works just as well.

Thermally reactive silicon resistor, aka silicon-carbide thermistor. iirc "Silistor" was a brand name.

 

[scompton]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Carl /img/forum/go_quote.gif Make sure the driver is perfectly flat when you reassemble it. If it's even 10 degrees off axis you'll get a pretty noticeable channel imbalance.

That's going to be easy since gentle pushing and pulling doesn't move the driver.