[Lurk650]

Strange, *knock on wood* but I haven't had any issue with mine. Though, I don't use it as a USB DAC.

 

[B_Rich]

Strange, *knock on wood* but I haven't had any issue with mine. Though, I don't use it as a USB DAC.

I'm wondering if I give this thing one more shot and use it through bluetooth to my PC instead of over USB. Then just use a 1A phone charger to plug it into the wall while I'm using it or something. I really don't know what I'm doing wrong here.

 

[rkw]

I have gone through 3 replacement devices, and I'm now on my 4th one and it just died minutes ago. I'm using it as a USB DAC with my IE80's on my PC and I just went to plug my headphones in and it died on me. I get a loud popping and rustling noise through the headphones and it's clearly damaged.

Was audio actively playing when you plugged in the headphones?

There is a warning in the EarStudio app:

 

[B_Rich]

Was audio actively playing when you plugged in the headphones?

There is a warning in the EarStudio app:

No it was not. Also, I've had the output locked since day one on the last 2 ES100's that I received.

 

[randytsuch]

I haven't been able to replicate it. I use it weekly on both my PC and while I'm at work (on bluetooth). I have a pretty high end setup with a nice Seasonic power supply and MSI Z370 mobo. I can't imagine that would cause any issues.

Has in broken while on bluetooth, or only while on USB?
I only use mine on bluetooth.

 

[B_Rich]

Has in broken while on bluetooth, or only while on USB?
I only use mine on bluetooth.

I really can't remember the exact times it's broken. There is a chance it was only when it was plugged in over USB. I think I'm going to order a nice bluetooth 5.0 adapter w/ aptx for my PC and then use a small 1A phone charger to keep the ES100 charged while I play. Or since the battery life is actually pretty good I can probably get away with never charging it and using it at the same time. However I feel like charging it with a 1A phone charger and using it at the same time would be ok....

That's how much I love this device. I'm willing to buy a $40 bluetooth 5.0 adapter just to use it with my PC. I'm telling you guys, it's that good. I just need to figure out this problem I'm having with it.

 

[B_Rich]

Speaking of which, does anyone know if something like this is able to pair to the ES100? I'm not sure how I would tell the TaoTronics device to pair to the ES100...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...title_srh_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2KUZVNQ9LP7N9

Thanks to everyone who reads my posts and helps me out here. I'm kind of desperate.

 

[MisterMudd]

I haven't been able to replicate it. I use it weekly on both my PC and while I'm at work (on bluetooth). I have a pretty high end setup with a nice Seasonic power supply and MSI Z370 mobo. I can't imagine that would cause any issues.

I have not used it as a USB DAC, but for 8 months using with my phone - no problems. I wish you were not having that problem. Good luck.

 

[B_Rich]

I have not used it as a USB DAC, but for 8 months using with my phone - no problems. I wish you were not having that problem. Good luck.

Thanks for the reply. I ordered one last ES100 and won't be using this as a USB DAC anymore. I bought that bluetooth module as well and will be seeing if I can be happy with this aptx setup. I'm optimistic.

 

[mhoopes]

I don’t know much about these Bluetooth transmitters, but I can attest that LDAC>>AAC>>aptX>>aptX-LL. I’m not sure how SBC compares to aptX-LL, but it’s not as well-regarded as the others.

Don’t let the bitrate advantage of aptX over AAC fool you; AAC uses perceptual coding techniques that reduce bitrate considerably for a given perceived quality. aptX-HD may be comparable, but will require a more optimal RF environment, as does LDAC. AAC also has been shown to have excellent re-encoding quality (demonstrated in tests on hydrogenaud.io).

I found 990 Kb/s LDAC to have the lowest latency out of the higher quality codecs, but it needs low background RF levels around 2.4 GHz.

There will be differing opinions on this matter. Check it for yourself. You can encode some high-fidelity music with these different codecs and ABX it in Foobar2000.

 

[arbiter76]

You sure your USB port is not jacked up? It is rare but happens. Or perhaps a combination of the ES100 not having great circuit design with a jacked up port. Or it could be the ES100. Not a big sample size for people using it a USB DAC.

 

[benoe]

What does this "audio output lock" do exactly? It shouldn't be a hw lock, so how it would protect the device?

Btw, I would be glad to see headphone/earphone profiles in the app, where, by selecting a profile it would adjust the EQ, volume limit, output level estimation in one step.
I'm using an MH751 at home through the 3.5 jack and a Tin Audio T2 at work through the 2.5 jack, so I would just select the correct profile in the app, and go. Or if it could sense the connection, it could also select the profile automatically.

 

[davehutch]

What does this "audio output lock" do exactly? It shouldn't be a hw lock, so how it would protect the device?

Btw, I would be glad to see headphone/earphone profiles in the app, where, by selecting a profile it would adjust the EQ, volume limit, output level estimation in one step.
I'm using an MH751 at home through the 3.5 jack and a Tin Audio T2 at work through the 2.5 jack, so I would just select the correct profile in the app, and go. Or if it could sense the connection, it could also select the profile automatically.

It's all to do with Radsone's 'Dual Drive' tech
When you insert/remove a plug you can damage the unit as it tries to switch automatically and when music is playing you'll get a warning. By setting the output to 'Locked' you can avoid that issue by stopping it from trying to switch

 

[mhoopes]

It's all to do with Radsone's 'Dual Drive' tech
When you insert/remove a plug you can damage the unit as it tries to switch automatically and when music is playing you'll get a warning. By setting the output to 'Locked' you can avoid that issue by stopping it from trying to switch

Check me on this: I think the 3.5 mm jack has a switch (or other means) that detects insertion.

Without locking, when there is no plug inserted in the 3.5 mm jack, the unit assumes that we're using the 2.5 mm jack, and inverts L+ and R+ to L- and R- on Ring 1 and Sleeve of the 2.5 mm jack.

The moment you insert a TRS in the 3.5 mm jack, L+ and L- are shorted, and R+ and R- are likewise shorted. Bridged mode, apparently, doesn't kick in before those connections are made.

Hopefully, the output at that moment before the 3.5 mm plug is detected is small, as the output impedance is relatively low. Locking is a bit inconvenient, if you're switching between those outputs often, but I prefer the present configuration over "paying" for extra relays (battery power, BOM cost, board space, and impedance). I really think that the locking should always kick in after leaving the Audio Output menu.

 

[davehutch]

Check me on this: I think the 3.5 mm jack has a switch (or other means) that detects insertion.

Without locking, when there is no plug inserted in the 3.5 mm jack, the unit assumes that we're using the 2.5 mm jack, and inverts L+ and R+ to L- and R- on Ring 1 and Sleeve of the 2.5 mm jack.

The moment you insert a TRS in the 3.5 mm jack, L+ and L- are shorted, and R+ and R- are likewise shorted. Bridged mode, apparently, doesn't kick in before those connections are made.

Hopefully, the output at that moment before the 3.5 mm plug is detected is small, as the output impedance is relatively low. Locking is a bit inconvenient, if you're switching between those outputs often, but I prefer the present configuration over "paying" for extra relays (battery power, BOM cost, board space, and impedance). I really think that the locking should always kick in after leaving the Audio Output menu.

That sounds like a good idea for a future firmware update