[jamington2004]

Thanks. Going on my last post - that’s great to hear bifrost is a bit warmer in general if I decide to stay away from the rabbit hole of EQing

 

[MrCypruz]

after a couple of more hours I am feeling more and more like I won’t need it in the end.

This happened to me. I used to EQ the bass from 60-80 Hz down by +6 dB and after a month or so of ownership I found myself dialing it down to a point that I don’t EQ them at all.

Welcome the world of clean fast bass

Oh that bass...I know that there’s no omph as you get with conventional cup design headphones due to reverberation but the bass is fast, clean and simply intoxicating!

 

[Torq]

For those worrying about the behavior of the Jotunheim R, heat output and position of the volume dial - bear in mind that the volume setting is only part of the equation in determining how much power the amp is being asked to deliver. It is also dependent on the input level from your source. A source with a higher signal level will produce the same output level at the headphones with a lower volume setting.

The practical upshot of which is that, unless you're using the same music and source (DAC), the position of your volume dial is not a useful indicator of how much power you're asking the amp to deliver. You'd need to compare SPL from the headphones themsemselves for a meaningful comparison.

Here's an FLIR shot of my Jotunheim R ... taken in a 72F/22C room after several hours of burning things in at 100 dB/SPL:

I've never had either of my Jotunheim R units shutdown or trip out, no matter what I've run through them or at what SPL. So if you're getting regular shutdowns that suggests you've got other issues - including possibly a problem with your unit.

 

[JLoud]

What temperature is the surface of the case running? The point of your reading is inside the case. Curious to compare to external temp of case. I did infrared thermography for 10 years. Seen a lot of those Flir images.

 

[Torq]

What temperature is the surface of the case running? The point of your reading is inside the case. Curious to compare to external temp of case. I did infrared thermography for 10 years. Seen a lot of those Flir images.

The picture shows three temperatures.

The outer white rectangle is the case temperature of 93.6F (so cooler than body temperature). The second, smaller, rectangle is the average of the output stage, at 102.8F, and the final temperature of 113.7F is the hottest point of the internals as a spot measurement. None are a concern at all.

 

[JLoud]

I couldn't see all the readings on my phone. See them now that I'm on my computer.

 

[jamington2004]

I’m running my phone on full volume into a chord mojo on line input mode (3v) - and I barely need the dial past 10am. It barely gets warm after an hour or so

 

[MacedonianHero]

So hopefully I should have the new HSA-1b in house for a full review for Headphone.Guru. I spoke with Danny last night and based on his comments of this amplifier, I am really excited for this one!

 

[Sherwood]

As an additional data point, I run my Jotunheim R wide open, i.e. volume dial cranked to max. I attenuate volume through my RME DAC, and EQ through Roon. I run the amp 24/7 in a standard temperature room, and even have it under a shelf with somewhat restricted airflow. Mine has never once shut off.

 

[Torq]

So hopefully I should have the new HSA-1b in house for a full review for Headphone.Guru. I spoke with Danny last night and based on his comments of this amplifier, I am really excited for this one!

I expect you're going to love it, too ... but I'll say more in my write-up sometime over the weekend (need to finish pictures, excuse the quick-and-dirty shot of my unit here).

 

[bearcatsandor]

That's a gorgeous amp. Too bad that volume pot won't fit on a Jotunheim R (i assume).

 

[jamington2004]

In case anyone else didn’t realise how adjustable the headphones are - I certainly didn’t and suddenly they are loads more comfortable, no inward pressure at all now from the foam bars on my face



Also - is the white stuff on the inner side of of the drivers just a thin protective coating? Mine seems to have a few marks on and a couple of tiny holes - I’m assuming it’s not a problem?

And can I get any old extension cable with 2.5mm female to male? Or needs some special impedance whatever that is!?

Thanks all!

 

[jamington2004]

Oh and also - these things are ****** insane!!! (Insert your own expletive!)

Haven’t tried high end headphones really - only IEM.

I can only liken them to the Kii Three Speakers I had, before entering the rabbit hole of headphones earlier this year. They had all sorts of clever DSP wizardry to stop the bass booming in-room and allow the rest of the music to shine through un-adulterated!

But I would have had to have them pretty damn loud to make everything stand out ..... these RAAL serve everything up on a silver platter to you with literally no effort, and relatively low volumes!

Just awesome

 

[Torq]

And can I get any old extension cable with 2.5mm female to male?

What are you trying to extend?

There are no 2.5mm connections on the SR1a; the connections on the headphone side are 3.5mm TRRS.

Are you thinking of adding extensions at the headphone end of the cable?

Or needs some special impedance whatever that is!?

If you're using the "Amp/Ribbon Interface" box, via a speaker/power amp, then increasing the resistance of the cable will result in increased treble level. Adding adapters will probably double the overall cable resistance and that will be audible. If you're using active compensation and direct-drive, as with the Jotunheim R or HSA-1a/1b then it's less of a factor.

You're much better off just getting cables of the right length to begin with.

 

[jamington2004]

Ho sorry thought they were 2.5mm.

meant a longer cable from jot r amp to the headphones so I can lounge on the sofa 3m away

But don’t want to spend £400 odd on their longer offering.

So any 3.5mm female to male trrs will do?

Thanks - your input is very much appreciated!