HossDelgado
New Head-Fier
- Joined
- Nov 26, 2011
- Posts
- 8
- Likes
- 0
I hope everyone is doing well.
Here's a request for advice: are there general 'best practices' for converting single entry headphones into dual entry? I'd also love to read anyone's experiences with drilling into an ear cup for the dual entry.
I ask because my current project is to convert my wife's well-loved-but-aging Sony MDR ZX 700 headphones into dual entry. I've twice replaced sections of the cable over the years because the single entry design snakes the right side cables through very small openings on the bale and then inside the headband and back in through another tiny hole to the right ear cup. Because the ear cup pivots a lot over time, the wires invariably flex to the point that they break. This is annoying so I decided to 'fix' the design problem.
So far I've removed the old wiring, and soldered up a TRS 2.5mm jack onto Mogami W2893 mini quad. The Mogami has been split and the pairs have been protected with heat shrink. Continuity seems OK as I tested with a multimeter and then temporarily soldered the leads onto the drivers to test for signal and both work OK.
The project is on hold while I wait for some parts from China (strain relief, y splitter), so it's a good time to ask for the board's advice before I start messing with structural elements.
Many thanks in advance for the help.
Here's a request for advice: are there general 'best practices' for converting single entry headphones into dual entry? I'd also love to read anyone's experiences with drilling into an ear cup for the dual entry.
I ask because my current project is to convert my wife's well-loved-but-aging Sony MDR ZX 700 headphones into dual entry. I've twice replaced sections of the cable over the years because the single entry design snakes the right side cables through very small openings on the bale and then inside the headband and back in through another tiny hole to the right ear cup. Because the ear cup pivots a lot over time, the wires invariably flex to the point that they break. This is annoying so I decided to 'fix' the design problem.
So far I've removed the old wiring, and soldered up a TRS 2.5mm jack onto Mogami W2893 mini quad. The Mogami has been split and the pairs have been protected with heat shrink. Continuity seems OK as I tested with a multimeter and then temporarily soldered the leads onto the drivers to test for signal and both work OK.
The project is on hold while I wait for some parts from China (strain relief, y splitter), so it's a good time to ask for the board's advice before I start messing with structural elements.
Many thanks in advance for the help.
