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- Mar 20, 2013
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Low key shots always work! Great!
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While not directed at me I've used MMCX connectors in the past and over time they are quite unreliable in my experience. Originally got them for my SRH-1840 but tried them on a 3D printed set of cups w/ Nhoord Red V2 drivers and while the cable worked for a few months after that the connection was always cutting out so after replacing the MMCX connectors 2 more times and only getting a few months of use I've changed over to SMC jacks which to me have been able to last for 5 years so far. The MMCX connectors seem to be great for IEMs since the cables are quite thin and light so there is much less strain on the connection.@ilmothedude what mmcx cinnector did you use? I've been thinking about converting my sr325e s to mmcx but I can't seem to find a trustworthy pair.
For the cups I use panel mount jacks from Vetco, a bit on the pricy side but well made. If you look on ebay don't get those with a removeable center pin since they are hard to work with and like the MMCX center pin they tend to get lose over time.@DavidA thanks for the reply, I have a pair of Shures and I was thinking I could just use the same cable for both.
I've also looked into SMC connectors and all the ones I can find are for panels. Do you know where to get ones good for Grado's?
Yeah, mmcx connector can be unreliable, but there's a way to fix them once signal cutting occurs. Now I don't really have much real life experience, but I assume that it's almost always center pin which becomes loose on connector side. One mmcx connector I installed on my Hifiman RE400 iem had this issue. I fixed it by manipulating center pin in connector. Center pin or more like center pin socket is made of two halves and pin in mmcx plug goes between those. I believe over the time those halves become more apart and gap between them becomes larger, that's the moment when signal cutting starts to occur. So solution is actually pretty simple: examine the direction of gap so you know the position of halves. That's very small so magnifying glass and good light can help. Once you know the direction of gap, you'll need some very tiny tool you can use to push the other half towards the other thus making gap smaller again. It must fit inside connector easily so you won't harm the connector. Pushing force should be very gentle as you don't want to bend whole socket part, but only the half you're pushing. So basically you don't feel actually bending it at all, it's so tiny movement. If connecting issues continue then use tiny drop of electronic contact cleaner. I took macro photo of mmcx connector of my Grado so you can see the idea what I described:While not directed at me I've used MMCX connectors in the past and over time they are quite unreliable in my experience. Originally got them for my SRH-1840 but tried them on a 3D printed set of cups w/ Nhoord Red V2 drivers and while the cable worked for a few months after that the connection was always cutting out so after replacing the MMCX connectors 2 more times and only getting a few months of use I've changed over to SMC jacks which to me have been able to last for 5 years so far. The MMCX connectors seem to be great for IEMs since the cables are quite thin and light so there is much less strain on the connection.
Yeah, mmcx connector can be unreliable
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Yea, I have had Shure srh1440 since 2013 and never had any issues with its mmcx connectors. Then again brand new mmcx I installed had contact issue right away. But for me mmcx gained reliability when I figured the way to fix the contacting issue.Thanks, you nailed it. MMCX connectors can be troublesome in time indeed, but there's no rule with them. Some can work for years with no issues.
Are there any US-based companies doing really nice metal cups / driver sleeves?
Some time ago I bought some aluminium sleeves from the forum partner @ambchang , very, very good.Are there any US-based companies doing really nice metal cups / driver sleeves?
How did you get the female 3.5mm connectors to stay in place?So my right side mmcx connector on my Grados started to cut off the signal, and no matter how much I tried to tighten the pin socket, cutting remained. I guess whole pin socket had somehow got pushed too deep inside mmcx connector and it couldn't reach the pin in plug. I decided to ditch the mmcx because no way I'd want to replace those mmcx connectors frequently, given that they're indeed that unreliable. So I replaced the mmcx connectors with standard 3.5mm plug socket. 3.5mm socket is very sturdy, snaps tightly in place and is most importantly very reliable, and some other headphones also use 3.5mm connectors so aftermarket cables are available, if I desired one. But as 3.5mm plugs are very common and easy to solder, it's easy to make my own cables aswell. I had to convert Grado stock cable into 3.5mm cable, and the Ourart mmcx cable I really didn't want to mess with so I made 3.5mm plug to mmcx female adapter so I can use also mmcx cables. Now my Grados feel so much more reliable and solid.
3.5mm socket
Stock Grado cable with 3.5mm plugs and Ourart mmcx cable with 3.5mm plug to mmxc female adapter.
3.5mm plug to mmcx female adapter. Mmcx goes slightly inside the plug metal housing, and it prevents the biggest wiggling motions of mmcx connector, so it perhaps and just perhaps will last longer. But that's not too big of a concern as it's just an adapter, and it was very quick one to make. Works great for now, and isn't too bulky either when attached to headphone. Ourart cable is so much lighter than Grado stock cable, and makes headphones feel considerably more comfy on the head.
I used panel mountable connectors, so they can be screwed into place.
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I used panel mountable connectors, so they can be screwed into place.