Great Job!
Have you checked pin 2 - 4 if there‘s a short cut? There are rumors about being so with the new x-series cables.
First time I heard this, I checked 1st ring to 3rd on the 4.4 plug I soldered to my RS2e. There is no connection.
Maybe it‘s just a rumor, maybe it wasn’t with the e-series 8- and 12-cores. (Did a GS to XLR4 to a friend.)
Great Job!
Have you checked pin 2 - 4 if there‘s a short cut? There are rumors about being so with the new x-series cables.
First time I heard this, I checked 1st ring to 3rd on the 4.4 plug I soldered to my RS2e. There is no connection.
Maybe it‘s just a rumor, maybe it wasn’t with the e-series 8- and 12-cores. (Did a GS to XLR4 to a friend.)
On my RS-1X all 8 conductors go from the earcups to the plug:
2 red = L+
2 white = R+
4 blue which are the negatives for both channels.
Using a multimeter (Fluke 87), I determined that there are two pairs of the blue conductors because all 4 are not shorted together. Once I figured out which the two pairs are, I put the headphones on and briefly tested (with the Fluke set to ohms) across red (L+) and one pair of blue and then the other. When I heard a "click" in my ear, I knew I found the proper pairing. I only ever hear the 'click" in one channel at a time and only with one specific conductor pair.
I verified the same with the right channel. The RS-1X has its channels independently wired making it easy to run it legitimately balanced.
Hey all,
I just got the 225x and want to add 3.5mm sockets and use a balanced Meze cable with them, I know nothing about what to solder to what end, does anyone have a picture or diagram for soldering ?
Hey all,
I just got the 225x and want to add 3.5mm sockets and use a balanced Meze cable with them, I know nothing about what to solder to what end, does anyone have a picture or diagram for soldering ?
What kind of 3.5mm sockets are you using? Mono or Stereo? I found that 3.5mm sockets don't last very long for use in headphone cups and depending on what type you use can intrude into the cup too much. For Grado's I've stayed with SMC connectors, small, secure connection, and no enlarging of the hole going into the cups.
Soldering info if using TRS sockets: (+) is the "T" and (-) is usually the second "R"
If using TR sockets: (+) is the "T" as before and (-) is the "R"
What kind of 3.5mm sockets are you using? Mono or Stereo? I found that 3.5mm sockets don't last very long for use in headphone cups and depending on what type you use can intrude into the cup too much. For Grado's I've stayed with SMC connectors, small, secure connection, and no enlarging of the hole going into the cups.
Soldering info if using TRS sockets: (+) is the "T" and (-) is usually the second "R"
If using TR sockets: (+) is the "T" as before and (-) is the "R"
You will have to drill/enlarge the slot in the cups to fit those, not sure if you really want to do that but if I were doing it I'd enlarge the inner cup slot to allow the jack to fit slide through and enlarge the outer slot just enough to let the threads to pass so you can still use the nut to secure it. I would also use some hot glue to hold the jack to the inner cup. See attached pictures, hope this helps
I used similiar 3,5mm connectors in my Grado sr225e mod. They've been good and solid so far. Be careful though with hot air and cup separating, I made mistake using heat gun too close and plastic got deformed. Lucky that driver survived. Ended up buying wooden cups.
I prefer to confirm pin layout with multimeter and 3,5mm - 3,5mm cable. I connected positive to TIP, and negative to GND. RING not connected. You can use RING instead of GND as negative, I don't know which one is correct/commercial standard. I've made/modded all of my cables, and decided that I use gnd as negative.
In my experience those connectors work great for a while and then get loose if you take the cable out a bunch. I like them cause they're cheap and fit inside grados really well.
Question to anyone who has purchased Rhoulpat cups with 3 pin mini xlr headphone connector. I just got mine in the mail. I have all my supplies ready to put the drivers in. Which cable coming from the headphone connector should I solder to the red and which should I solder to the white on the driver? Does it matter? I ask because one of the cables on the cups has a not tied in it and the other doesn't and I'm thinking that is trying to tell me the answer but I can't tell if it is meaning solder the knotted one to the red or to the non-red connector. The drivers are the Elleven Acoustica Epsilon G1 if that matters.
I messaged Rhoulpat asking as well but I figured someone on here might have experience with them as well.
I built these for fun recently. Drivers are SR125e, cups were made from olive wood and are a gift from a friend from Germany, and the rest are my Nyczaj mods.
My SR125e had a very stiff and twisted cable, so it was time to cut it and give them a new home. I forgot how fun these are to listen to
I built these for fun recently. Drivers are SR125e, cups were made from olive wood and are a gift from a friend from Germany, and the rest are my Nyczaj mods.
My SR125e had a very stiff and twisted cable, so it was time to cut it and give them a new home. I forgot how fun these are to listen to
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long time no see this Thread..
