post your grado mods....
May 22, 2015 at 12:31 AM Post #6,316 of 8,987
 It's a very hard wood but rather easy to work with. 

They say the black ebony is harder to work with.


Good to know...I flirt endlessly with the idea of a pair of T50rp in striped ebony with mini-xlr detachable cables...soon...
 
May 22, 2015 at 8:15 AM Post #6,318 of 8,987
I think padouk is one of the nicest woods to work with. 


It is indeed...I also like Walnut a lot. Rosewood is a pain in the arse. I just finished a pair of T50 rp in Afzalia. It was my first time with it, and I was actually pleasantly surprised :).
 
May 28, 2015 at 6:39 AM Post #6,321 of 8,987
  If you're in the U.S., you might wanna give the Earzonk L-cush on Amazon a shot. They are not like the grado L-cush, but they are more comfortable (softer, not as scratchy IMO), they're $10 so very affordable.
 
As far as velour pads, check out the "Grado Modders go magnum thread", recent posts by member/Grado modder extraordinaire @stratocaster shows his pads are a combination of grado L-cush and beyer DT-250 pads together. 

 
Thanks for the suggestions btw. I like stratocasters mod, so I think I'll give them a try. Will post results.
 
May 30, 2015 at 3:51 PM Post #6,325 of 8,987
Got some pretty mild mods here:


If you can find a better use of a pen spring, gimme a shout :wink:
Also tied a bit of elastic band to move the stress down a bit as the previous owner had clearly giving the cable some bending.


Blu tak on the back of the driver and I painted L red and R blue. Hope the paint doesn't have a negative effect on the sound, but it looks cool anyway.
Also see if you can spot the blu tak I stuck around the cup, I painted it black to keep the sleek look.


Standard foam dampening on the outer shell and also got some black painted blu tak round the edge here too.


Spring makes cable look much nicer and more stable, but unfortunately the foam dampening means you can't see my read/blue L/R paint. Oh well.
 
Jun 1, 2015 at 4:04 PM Post #6,326 of 8,987
Hey guys! 
 
I just bought a pair of the sr80e's a few weeks ago and love their sound. I had heard about the numerous mods you can pull off on these and cant wait to start experimenting! I'll probably be getting a second pair to test out some cup designs I've been working on. I currently have access to a small lathe and various machine shop equipment so once i get the funds ill be seeing what kind of madness i can create. One idea ive had for a while now is to open up some vent holes around the cup right about where the lip of the ear pad catch is at. I got the inspiration from the Flare R1 headphones and was wondering if anyone has done something similar before. 
 
Anyhow, I,m currently waiting to hear back from my uncle (he runs a woodworking business) to see if he can supply some good burls or laminates I could use for the cups.
 
(By the way, does anyone have any recommendations for non-grado, circular drivers that might sound nice?
 
Jun 1, 2015 at 4:22 PM Post #6,328 of 8,987
  Quote:

EyuiOL-8ff.jpg
Originally Posted by kschul2
What kind of headband pad is that?


that is the DT770 snap on padded headband. just 12 bucks shipped direct from Beyer. every grado owner should have it imho!

 
For 12 buck, clearly!!
 
Jun 1, 2015 at 4:24 PM Post #6,329 of 8,987
  really? wouldn't doing that creates some reflection to the sound wave considering the wave is longitudinal?

Well the vents would be practically horizontal to the driver but I believe the whole point of doing such is to (if ever so slightly) reduce any distortion caused by slight pressure generated by the driver having to "push" air through the grill and into the foam. I do realize that the grados specifically might not have to worry about this, but im still wondering if it would make a difference, if at all. Perhaps that would help pull off the ten hole driver vent mod some people are trying on the sr60's and 80's without strengthening the bass too much. 
 
Also i realized that the stock cups wouldnt really benefit from the mod I'm planning (due to the foam of the ear pads closing off the vent holes) but i will definitely give it a shot by extending the cup area in front of the driver by about maybe 1/8th or 1/16th of an inch.
 
IDK thats just what i have in mind so far. I'll try drafting some plans for the modified cup dimensions later on tonight.
 

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