Post pics of your builds....
Apr 6, 2009 at 11:00 AM Post #4,756 of 9,811
Let me try that again, this time with some more reliable image hosting:

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Apr 6, 2009 at 11:46 AM Post #4,759 of 9,811
The case is from Jaycar, catalogue number HB5462. I can't find it on their website, but it's in the 2008 catalogue, perhaps it's discontinued. I believe johnwmclean used the bigger version of it (HB5466) for his Jaycar amp. I like the smaller case, but there isn't much extra room inside.

The attenuator arrived today and I put it in this evening as well as removing some components at the HP out as per the AK mods, but now it's hissing and whooshing randomly
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I must have made a dodgey solder joint...

Otherwise, yes, it does sound great.
 
Apr 7, 2009 at 6:50 PM Post #4,763 of 9,811
Quick question:
The 100nF capacitors (the yellowish caps) I used where the ones from the alternatives list from Tangent. Will they still do well? or should I really try (I know that they don't have those bigger ones in a store closer then 100km
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) to get those bigger ones... or isn't that really worth the effort?

hehe srry for this maybe foolish question, but I was also wondering why the 'bigger' ones are better?

1013238.jpg
 
Apr 8, 2009 at 3:25 AM Post #4,764 of 9,811
I have a transplanted rackmount 1U box working now as my preamp.

3423127762_6d1d93867e_o.jpg


its using the VoluMaster code base I'm working on (I'm about 3/4 done in coding it) and its just the PGA volume control chip/board, a 'boarduino' from lady ada (a kit maker), a radio shack cheap IR receiver module, a hitachi 16x2 backlit lcd, and not much else (other than a sony cd player IR handheld remote control).

I have quite a bit implemented so far. what's new is that I added named inputs and outputs, so you can see I've selected 'popcorn' (popcorn hour, which is a media streamer or set-top box networked player) as the input and the beta22 as my output. I also have 'speakers' programmed as an alternate output. the x10 integration part is what really makes it unique, I think: when you change output devices (from speaker amp to headphone amp) it does a whole script of things, such as muting the amp that's currently on, powering it off (via the x10 firecracker module and some plugged in appliance relay modules), powering ON the new amp, keeping that one on mute and waiting for a 'turn-on delay' period. once that expires the volume is ramped up slowly to the last saved full setting. switch back and you get a ramp down, power click, another power click (other amp coming on), turn on delay and slow fade up of volume.

the software is up to almost 3000 lines of C code. it does quite a lot but there's still more to be done before its ready for release. but I am able to use this thing, now, and its now a total replacement for my previous preamp and 'home stereo' setup.
 
Apr 8, 2009 at 3:59 AM Post #4,766 of 9,811
thanks
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the neat thing about that crinkle stuff is that its very cheap at my plastics store (TAP plastics), its workable by hand tools (almost a butter knife will cut thru it) and if you make a mistake, it only makes it look BETTER (LOL!). fingerprints on surfaces? what are those?
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can't beat this stuff for rapid prototyping. not for finished goods, its too soft, but its great to get a feel for things before you send out for front-panel express or similar.
 
Apr 8, 2009 at 4:09 AM Post #4,767 of 9,811
Quote:

Originally Posted by linuxworks /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I have quite a bit implemented so far......


I'd buy that for a dollar. Nice work!
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Apr 8, 2009 at 4:24 AM Post #4,768 of 9,811
Quote:

Originally Posted by Beefy /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I'd buy that for a dollar. Nice work!
smily_headphones1.gif



you won't have to - the code will be released in source form, free. as soon as it makes sense to (when its not going thru so many re-do's).

hardware was also cheap, at this point. arduino was $25 for the board and chip, volume control was in the $20 range for both chip+board, case was a throw-away (almost), lcd was $10, IR receiver is a dollar and if you have a sony cd or dvd player, you have the sender already
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what is that - $50 or less? in that range. tools to take source and shove it down your usb pipe are also free
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you run a free windows or linux program, load the source, press 'download' and watch das blinkenlichten for about 10 seconds, then the lcd reboots and you have the new firmware on the box.

when the source is ready and released, I'll write up some tutorials on how to customize it and that will be a whole project in itself
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but the point is to LET people customize it, change the look around, change the names (even translate to local language) and all that can be done since the tools are free, source will be available and you only need a usb1.1 port to do the firmware upload.

so, stay tuned, if you want to build one
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Apr 8, 2009 at 1:01 PM Post #4,770 of 9,811
Quote:

Originally Posted by Llama16 /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Quick question:
The 10µF capacitors (the yellowish caps) I used where the ones from the alternatives list from Tangent. Will they still do well? or should I really try (I know that they don't have those bigger ones in a store closer then 100km
tongue.gif
) to get those bigger ones... or isn't that really worth the effort?

hehe srry for this maybe foolish question, but I was also wondering why the 'bigger' ones are better?

1013238.jpg



I don't think those yellow caps are 10uF capacitors. Haven't seen 10uF caps so small. At least not those I have seen. Would you like to take a closeup of the caps?
 

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