Pioneer XDP-300R | Twin DAC ES9018K2M | Balanced Out | Android | MQA | 2x MicroSD | WiFi | AptX
Aug 31, 2017 at 1:04 PM Post #946 of 2,532
I am charging mine at this very minute via the computer and it is only very slightly warm. Never had a problem with it being hot even when in very low charge state. You might want to contact dealer about that.
 
Aug 31, 2017 at 1:26 PM Post #947 of 2,532
Haven't noted excessive heat on charging or transferring files from my PC either (all these things get a bit warm, but nothing that would, say, cause discomfort or worry).
 
Aug 31, 2017 at 1:33 PM Post #948 of 2,532
I finnished the first charge via a multi usb thats plugged in to wall socket and the heat was near normal, like when I charge the phone. I will give it a few more charge-up's before sending it back, perhaps the battery charging will improve with use.
 
Aug 31, 2017 at 4:38 PM Post #950 of 2,532
Mine will sometimes get warm, even when it isn't charging. Haven't figured out why, but it did get hot when I had some fake-a$$ micro disks in it. Those screwed up my life for a few days! Nothing worked right until I got a "real" micro disk that didn't come from Ebay (live and learn).
 
Sep 1, 2017 at 5:52 AM Post #952 of 2,532
Well, things seem to have normalised, at the moment it is plugged into the PC and playing to my phones via Bluetooth. It must have been the initial charge on a fresh battery, I honestly thought I had a "Note 7" equivalent.
Now I'm just waiting for the cover to arrive. I did see some criticism that you can't access the SD's, but that at least makes them less likely to get lost, and at £65 per 200gb card I'll take a little inconvenience. :)
 
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Sep 11, 2017 at 1:01 PM Post #953 of 2,532
As a long time lurker, and mid-fi music lover, I imported the 300R a few months back, and have been enjoying it immensely. I find it unusual how different the threads are for this vs the X1/A, and that there is far less activity here. I am trying to find out where this player sits in the scheme of things: Warm vs Neutral vs Analytical as a point of reference, however, reviews are very few and far between. I would appreciate any feedback from more experienced listeners who may shed some light on the 300R's place in the audio spectrum and how it compares to other price/feature comparable options like the FiiO x5-III. As I said, I have already made my purchase, but I am hoping to have a better understanding of the spectrum of audio qualities.

~Ex
 
Sep 11, 2017 at 3:53 PM Post #954 of 2,532
All,

So i opened up my XDP-300R this evening. I took a few pictures along the way but couldn't do a video and to be honest you wouldn't want to hear me cursing throughout! Also they were taken on my phone so aren't great.

First off you do this (if you choose to) at your risk. You'll also void your (somewhat useless) warranty.

You'll need some tools commonly used to open mobile phones, I'll list what I used as I go. Now I'm going to keep this brief as to be honest if you aren't confident or competent doing this kind of repair or disassembly then you honestly shouldn't try, there's a lot at risk and you should probably have done something similar in the past.

Anyway here is goes.

Firstly heat the screen with a hair dryer. Do not overheat, I heated the screen so it was warm to touch.

I then used some screen pliers to lift the bottom of the screen a little bit, just enough so I could get a small guitar pick type pryer in. It is imperative that you start at the bottom as there are two ribbons that attach the screen the PCB. You'll see below. This was after I loosened the bottom with the pick.
36334902794_9e1ea0b6a7_o.jpg


You'll see the glue on the pic below. It's the double sided tape type - not liquid!

36334901994_2439bf3630_o.jpg


At this point you work your way with the pick to the top right hand corner, being very careful of the ribbons, you'll see them if you look up from the bottom as you go. The below image is looking from the top of the device and the ribbons are on the bottom left of the picture. You'll need to remove the little black sticky protective pads to expose the connector. I used some small tweezers.

37029324521_20aa65c484_o.jpg


Like this (sorry it's not in focus):

37172097065_054210715b_o.jpg


You need to lift the back of the white part of the connector to release the ribbon - you'll see in later picture's where it's a bit more in focus.

37171450095_13fce0cff5_o.jpg


Next you need to remove the silver frame with a small philips screwdriver; there are 6 screws in total, seen below. You need to remove the sticky protective strip - it runs into the middle of the unit next to the sticker that says MB and is grey. I recommend removing it from the metal frame first because it's attached to the ribbon connecting the DAC.

Note, I didn't use the metal pry bar above, it was just taken out of the box.

36773754350_5a6aa58a84_o.jpg


Once removed you'll see both the DAC/Amp and CPU board. The top left are the offending jacks!

36773753040_37113a7a5f_o.jpg


There are two Philips screws holding the board in place that need removed. I also removed the snapped jack, which was probably the most difficult because I had super glued it in!

36334896104_44787f29f8_o.jpg


Once both jacks are free of glue you can, very carefully pull it towards the bottom of the unit to clear the holes in the case and then pull it over to the right. You need to be careful of the capacitors on the top of the DAC/Amp. They're to the left of this next picture, about in line with the volume knob.
You also need to be careful of the wiring for the reset button which is red and black twisted rusher and of the ribbon from the DAC/Amp.

36773747750_767fa55e70_o.jpg



This is the underside of the jacks, where they are soldered into the board.

36773746880_efbe230f3e_o.jpg


This is as far as I could get tonight. I need to source some replacement jacks, which may be trial and error to be honest, and then come up with some sort of permanent fix. I suspect it will involve bonding them from the inside - to the inside of the case.

I'll update once I make some more progress.

Unfortunately it's now in an array of ziplock bags in a box so I have to use my phone to listen to Tidal!

John
 
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Sep 12, 2017 at 1:46 PM Post #955 of 2,532
I have taken a couple of more in focus pictures of the jack connectors, in the hope someone can help identify a replacement. I have looked for a couple of hours today but can't find one that looks as if it will fit. I have also emailed Pioneer asking if they'd send new jacks, although I'm not holding my breath!

Anyway here are a couple of pictures.

The rear of the PCB
36376422033_708a0bb72e_o.jpg


The Front

36376669803_ef04271cd6_o.jpg
 
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Sep 14, 2017 at 3:18 AM Post #957 of 2,532
Thanks for taking the time to get some photographs and post them John. Finding the correct surface mount sockets will be a problem. In the past I've used in-line sockets on short pigtails soldered to the board and sticking out of the case to solve this issue, its not pretty but it works.
 
Sep 14, 2017 at 3:32 AM Post #959 of 2,532
Thanks for taking the time to get some photographs and post them John. Finding the correct surface mount sockets will be a problem. In the past I've used in-line sockets on short pigtails soldered to the board and sticking out of the case to solve this issue, its not pretty but it works.
Thanks. That is likely to be the solution to be honest. I did find these but I emailed the company (Sourcingmap) and they haven't got any. They did say they have contacted their manufacturer to ask if they are available. I've also emailed Pioneer but I don't expect a solution from them. I'm going to give it a week or so and if I can't source them I'll be wiring an external socket as you've suggested.
 
Sep 19, 2017 at 5:29 AM Post #960 of 2,532
Small update....
  • I had a reply from Sourcingmap about the above linked jack's - their manufactures have none so I have asked if there is a prospect of them being available long term.
  • Pioneer haven't replied. I've emailed twice and their timescale for a reply is 3 days, both emails have exceeded this.
  • I emailed every authorised pioneer repairer in the UK and those that looked into the repair all came back with the same response; The XDP-300R has no repair manual available and their contacts in Pioneer say it is a non repairable device and therefore parts are not available. I don't accept this, it is evident it is repairable, if the parts are available and not the other way around. In fact with a SMD heat gun and solder paste it should be relatively painless.
I'm going to either have to try and glue it back together and come up with some way of filling the gap in the body, which should be easier, cleaner and more effective having the PCB out. Or, as mentioned above solder some wires to the PCB and pigtail them to an external connector.
 

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