infinitesymphony
Headphoneus Supremus
- Joined
- May 15, 2006
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A bit of a long explanation, but hopefully someone will find it useful... Also note that this is only my subjective opinion.
I bought a new receiver last week that's capable of performing passive bi-amplification by delivering extra power to the front L/R channels using the surround back outputs. Until then, I'd hooked up the speakers using Blue Jeans Cable 10 AWG cables, with jumpers between the top and bottom speaker binding posts made with tiny segments of BJC 12 AWG wire (I found that using the speakers' original brass bridges negatively affected the non-wired driver).
I started by connecting the 10 AWG wires to the new receiver. It sounded great! Everything had improved in comparison to my older amplifier. Satisfied that the receiver wasn't a dud, I decided to try the passive bi-amping feature. I unhooked the mini-jumpers and ran the only other decent speaker wires I owned--BJC 12 AWG--to the tweeter binding posts and surround back outputs.
Suddenly, something was different... It sounded bassier, thicker, slightly warmer than neutral--not what I've come to expect from the speakers. I ran the receiver's auto-calibration feature, but it didn't improve the balance. However, the results did show EQ corrections for a lower-end bloat.
***
Tonight it dawned on me that the cables might have different specifications, and that they might be affecting the balance between the woofer and tweeter, and thus, the frequency response. To test the theory, I swapped the 10 AWG wires to the tweeter posts, and the 12 AWG wires to the woofer posts. Voila! The sound suddenly seemed brighter than neutral. My guess was that the larger gauge wire was allowing more signal to the tweeters (bright), where before it was allowing more to the woofers (dark).
Unscientific, I know, but the difference was quite clear to me. Matching cable gauges seems to matter with passive bi-amplification.
I bought a new receiver last week that's capable of performing passive bi-amplification by delivering extra power to the front L/R channels using the surround back outputs. Until then, I'd hooked up the speakers using Blue Jeans Cable 10 AWG cables, with jumpers between the top and bottom speaker binding posts made with tiny segments of BJC 12 AWG wire (I found that using the speakers' original brass bridges negatively affected the non-wired driver).
I started by connecting the 10 AWG wires to the new receiver. It sounded great! Everything had improved in comparison to my older amplifier. Satisfied that the receiver wasn't a dud, I decided to try the passive bi-amping feature. I unhooked the mini-jumpers and ran the only other decent speaker wires I owned--BJC 12 AWG--to the tweeter binding posts and surround back outputs.
Suddenly, something was different... It sounded bassier, thicker, slightly warmer than neutral--not what I've come to expect from the speakers. I ran the receiver's auto-calibration feature, but it didn't improve the balance. However, the results did show EQ corrections for a lower-end bloat.
***
Tonight it dawned on me that the cables might have different specifications, and that they might be affecting the balance between the woofer and tweeter, and thus, the frequency response. To test the theory, I swapped the 10 AWG wires to the tweeter posts, and the 12 AWG wires to the woofer posts. Voila! The sound suddenly seemed brighter than neutral. My guess was that the larger gauge wire was allowing more signal to the tweeters (bright), where before it was allowing more to the woofers (dark).
Unscientific, I know, but the difference was quite clear to me. Matching cable gauges seems to matter with passive bi-amplification.