Orthodynamic Roundup
Nov 4, 2017 at 3:55 AM Post #25,156 of 26,679

nick n

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Ishcabible can you describe the damping scheme , materials, order of layers ( if any ) and shapes/sizes of materials?
Or dBel maybe?
 
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Nov 4, 2017 at 8:33 AM Post #25,157 of 26,679

dBel84

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Update on my YH100: @dBel84 sent me some damping material and after taking a leap of faith and removing pads, I took to some quick modding. They sound pretty solid now other than some very noticeable upper midrange ringing and noticeably less sub extension. I think I overdamped them.

Before:


After:


I'm going to try to figure out how to bring that subbass back but they're pretty listenable now.

Those are great results!


Ishcabible can you describe the damping scheme , materials, order of layers ( if any ) and shapes/sizes of materials?
Or dBel maybe?

This is all Ischabible's work.

..dB
 
Nov 4, 2017 at 10:35 AM Post #25,159 of 26,679

Ishcabible

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Ishcabible can you describe the damping scheme , materials, order of layers ( if any ) and shapes/sizes of materials?
Or dBel maybe?

Basically I copied the basic scheme here: https://www.head-fi.org/threads/orthodynamic-roundup.111193/page-393#post-5028225

But I didn’t feel like going out to get new stuff for preliminary experiments. So what I used is a layer of thermaloam behind the stock yellow foam, a cotton makeup pad (I tried another layer of thermaloam instead of the cotton, but the cotton acted as a better reflector and increased treble), and fleece around the ports. dBel84 sent me some speaker caulk to seal the driver to the baffle and some dynamat to put on the outer rim of the driver. I’m going to try some other damping schemes because they sound pretty compressed so I’m 90% sure this is overdamped this way.

Those are great results!
..dB

Thanks! I definitely have a lot of work to do though; I know I can eek out more from this Driver. Just need to get more creative. I want to believe I can tame the bass hump with a bit of cotton, but I’m afraid that’ll make them even more overdamped.
 
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Nov 4, 2017 at 11:16 AM Post #25,160 of 26,679

GREQ

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So what I used is a layer of thermaloam behind the stock yellow foam, a cotton makeup pad (I tried another layer of thermaloam instead of the cotton, .

Nice to see thermolam getting more use around here. Great cheap alternative and a lot more common than arctic cotton/bamboo.
 
Nov 4, 2017 at 12:02 PM Post #25,161 of 26,679

Ishcabible

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Seems to be on sale too so I should probably get a couple yards...
 
Nov 4, 2017 at 4:36 PM Post #25,164 of 26,679

hemipowered007

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Anyone got experience pad rolling with Shure 1540 pads and how those generally affect sound?

They work great on t50rp builds, and I put them on my he4 as well, they didn't change the sound alot but are very comfortable. If I remember right the only sonic change on my he4 was a slight roll off of treble emphasis, but nothing major.
 
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Nov 4, 2017 at 9:45 PM Post #25,165 of 26,679

Feilong4

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I've only read and heard that they barely work on ANYTHING other their intended headphone.
I have zero experience with them.

They work great on t50rp builds, and I put them on my he4 as well, they didn't change the sound alot but are very comfortable. If I remember right the only sonic change on my he4 was a slight roll off of treble emphasis, but nothing major.

Hmm, guess I'll have to pick them up at some point and test them out.
 
Nov 4, 2017 at 9:49 PM Post #25,166 of 26,679

Feilong4

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Received my YH-100's today. I stripped two of the holes while trying to shove dampening materials into the cups. Whoops.

Boy is it hard to get the bass to sound right. It has this weird one-note "thud" characteristic.

I'll be reading up on some dampening methods.

Any updates on yours @Ishcabible?
 
Nov 4, 2017 at 11:55 PM Post #25,167 of 26,679

Ishcabible

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Received my YH-100's today. I stripped two of the holes while trying to shove dampening materials into the cups. Whoops.

Boy is it hard to get the bass to sound right. It has this weird one-note "thud" characteristic.

I'll be reading up on some dampening methods.

Any updates on yours @Ishcabible?

Yeah, I learned how easily the plastic strips on these. I managed to strip four on one side tonight
 
Nov 5, 2017 at 12:51 AM Post #25,168 of 26,679

nick n

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There's a trick you can try to avoid overtightening the screws and stripping the threads.

But you need to use a ratcheting screwdriver.
Turn the ratcheting mechanism to the opposite direction and tighten them down until it starts to give and begins to spin, then you know you are close ( have a look ).
This usually happens right at the point where the screwhead bottoms out at the baffle top.
It's usually a careful small finger tighten after that.

I find this works on most things, but if the screwholes are a bit snug right away it might start skipping and not work this way.
Had to resort to that on the Fostex T50rp's after opening ~100 times ( no joke ) but after that point doing the reverse ratchet method worked perfectly for another 20+ openings :)

BMF successfully redid screwthreads with superglue I think.
I may or may not have done that also i forget.
Might have used a plastic melting solution dropped into a hole then tiny drill bit to give just enough of a hole for the screws to rebite.

That info is buried on the first post at the T50RP Incremental Mods thread.

Sorry to hear hope this works out for you.
 
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Nov 5, 2017 at 6:31 AM Post #25,169 of 26,679

WallofHooligans

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I don't have much to offer on yh-100 mods, but I wanted to say that people putting orthos up on ebay as "orthopedic headphones" really tickles me.
Aside from that bit of worthlessness, I do believe that we haven't done enough to tap the original t-20 potential. They seem really impossible to fix, though different pads seem to do a great deal. The small center hole on stock pads seems to give off the most hard to tackle negative aspects.
 
Nov 5, 2017 at 12:38 PM Post #25,170 of 26,679

Feilong4

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There's a trick you can try to avoid overtightening the screws and stripping the threads.

But you need to use a ratcheting screwdriver.
Turn the ratcheting mechanism to the opposite direction and tighten them down until it starts to give and begins to spin, then you know you are close ( have a look ).
This usually happens right at the point where the screwhead bottoms out at the baffle top.
It's usually a careful small finger tighten after that.

I find this works on most things, but if the screwholes are a bit snug right away it might start skipping and not work this way.
Had to resort to that on the Fostex T50rp's after opening ~100 times ( no joke ) but after that point doing the reverse ratchet method worked perfectly for another 20+ openings :)

BMF successfully redid screwthreads with superglue I think.
I may or may not have done that also i forget.
Might have used a plastic melting solution dropped into a hole then tiny drill bit to give just enough of a hole for the screws to rebite.

That info is buried on the first post at the T50RP Incremental Mods thread.

Sorry to hear hope this works out for you.

I'll check it out when I can. Thanks!

I don't have much to offer on yh-100 mods, but I wanted to say that people putting orthos up on ebay as "orthopedic headphones" really tickles me.
Aside from that bit of worthlessness, I do believe that we haven't done enough to tap the original t-20 potential. They seem really impossible to fix, though different pads seem to do a great deal. The small center hole on stock pads seems to give off the most hard to tackle negative aspects.

Yeah, my T20v1 is still a work in process. I've done a number of dampening methods, vent covering, and pad swapping but nothing yielding satisfactory results. I'm feeling like the HM5 hybrid pads aren't really helping them either, which is why I'm thinking of seeing how the Shure 1540 pads would do - seems to be shallower with a fenestrated design.
 

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