[kalbee]

It may or may not be, although the split load does seem pretty unique.
But I'd be glad to be told otherwise anytime... the more I know/learn... -=☆
*cues nick for that picture*

 

[leeperry]

Originally Posted by GREQ /img/forum/go_quote.gif
 
Was it really Bellini? I'm pretty sure it wasn't.

Would be glad to be proven wrong

 

 

[leeperry]

Just for the giggles, so this is what $269 get you in the dynamic world: http://www.musicdirect.com/p-119290-alpha-design-labs-h118-headphones.aspx
 

 
One of the worst earpads shape I've seen and I can hear the cheap plastic resonate just by looking at the picture

 
 
Of course the plug is rhodium plated ^^

 

[kalbee]

Just a few thoughts to share with you guys as I am finishing a replacement HP/YH-1/2 headband. This directly applies to making new headbands of the same shape/type as the original, but could come in handy for other headphones too.
 

• The weight distribution of the stock headband is mainly split along the ribs (plastic covered part) and partially spread over the cloth part.
• Even if the rib is cracked (to some extent), the headband is still perfectly usable and comfortable.
• Using the length and hole layout of the original HP/YH-1/2 headband, chances are that the same headband will not fit a T50RP. It needs to be shorter for the latter.
• When selecting material for making the headband, do a small stretch test. Some materials will elongate too much too fast, in which case could be remedied by making the headband shorter. Even a thick, two layer synthetic leather will stretch out easily with use, possibly making the headband too long even for the adjustment sliders.
• If your scalp or hair tends to get greasy, synthetic leather might not be the best choice since it risks hardening (although not as badly as when used as earpads).
• If using neoprene for to replace the cloth part, forming a grid by triangle or other shape cutouts could increase the elasticity i.e. feels softer on the head. However, before doing this, test the neoprene by cutting an strip of the material at the average width of the grid and pulling it's two ends. If the neoprene breaks leaving just the cloth outstretched or permanently elongated, either avoid using grid form or increase width of grid strips.
• Using a thicker material as the middle section of the headband (the cloth part of the stock headband) such as neoprene could be comfortable but will still not give the same sensation as the stock headband. The actual part resting on the head will not be the rib, depending if you sew the thicker material over or under the rib... in which case, consider the orientation of the materials.
• Splitting the headband in the middle along the length can help spread the load instead of concentrating on the top of the head.
• The stock YH/HP-1 headband is actually thicker than the stock YH/HP-2 headband. Not too important.
• The ends of the headband should still be a strong enough material that can retain its shape but also thin enough. The HP/YH-1 headband is about 1.16mm thick at the ends and about 1.00mm for the HP/YH-2. Something not too much thicker is the target thickness. Too thick and the screws might not be seated properly.
• The ends of the headband should ideally not be too much of a squishy material. When screwing in the "JAPAN" plastic washer, a soft (and especially if thicker) material will cause it to crack right down the middle along the screw path.

 
 
And just to serve as example...

Yes, I took the picture in the washroom. The only place still bright enough at this hour.
I tried using neoprene with a textured leather rib. The textured leather isn't very thick but has little to no elasticity or stretch, perhaps because of the surface hardening to make the textured surface.
 
Most of the shortcomings are listed in my enumerated thoughts above. I couldn't cut out a grid on the neoprene because this neoprene was way too cheap quality. Dollarstore laptop/tablet sleeve. Tested a small piece and the whole thing deformed when pulled, meaning it will deform a lot in the long run if done that way.
 
The neoprene was sewn UNDER the leather rib, with the rough, textured surface facing outwards. Problem is the loading/weight distribution happens all in the middle on the neoprene. Perhaps the neoprene part been looser in the center it would have been a bit closer to the original. My previous builds (below) with two layer synthetic leather were actually a lot more comfortable, although now stretched out beyond proper usability. I might have to cut the neoprene along the length because it is quite uncomfortable in comparison to past builds.

Left: Weight split completely on two parts, with the spread adjustable. The narrower width of material meaning it stretches out more easily...
Right: Instead of ribbed design, just a headband sliced across the length in the middle. The cut bends the headband on the top of the head to conform and spread weight over head.
 
 
And now regarding the ends of the headband.

I actually added an extra layer of soft brown leather to go under the plastic washers. My reasoning was that I liked how the synthetic leather had the washer imprint it's shape on it, making it feel more permanent. It would also serve as extra material to slow down wear and tear of the leather rib. BAD idea.
It is hard to see it in the picture but the washer cracked. I looked around at my HP-2 shell that has a synthetic leather headband and surely enough it is also cracked although not as badly. The combination of thickness, spongy material, and screw layout makes tightening the screws bend the washer outwards to it's left and right. 
 
 
TLR? No worries I feel ya.
Just a few observations that will hopefully come useful to anyone replicating the Yamaha headband design.
I have yet to replicate again the foam & elastic one.

 

[Tasoeur]

Thanks a lot ! Very usefull post ! 

 

[ericj]

  Just for the giggles, so this is what $269 get you in the dynamic world: http://www.musicdirect.com/p-119290-alpha-design-labs-h118-headphones.aspx
 
One of the worst earpads shape I've seen and I can hear the cheap plastic resonate just by looking at the picture

 
 
Of course the plug is rhodium plated ^^

 
Rhodium doesn't actually plate. It's rhodium spatter coated. Under a powerful enough microscope, it would look like a boulder field. not really ideal for a connector. 

 

[nick n]

Did a final tuning tweak on the TDS-16 H-40c things be interesting to see the impressions when they get them. Unless they are afraid to post here.
 
I had to go in and swap a few drivers around  between a few sets ( did I just say that, I think I did yes ) to match impedances, the jerk

had his set near perfect already! My set now is down to 0.8 db difference. But comparing to the first one I ever got with a massive copper recable isn'y entirley fair. Far as I know it is stock but with restuffed pads.
 
 [ Of possible interest also I figured from multimeter measurements that the stock cable at the stock length is roughly 1.2 ohms on it's own. Not bad. ]
 
At the worst range was ~6 db difference betwen drivers in a single stock pair. Most obvious when mods are applied. Anyone not modding these is missing out, especially since the inner foam is the only thing holding the driver tight. Chuck a few bits of Dynamat to at least hold the driver tight , I mean c'mon get out that screwdriver you weaklings.
 
And the stock pads well you know interesting but better new ones can be had on the cheap. Only thing is I had to scuff up the shiny pleather backing with sandpaper to get the contact cement to grab. Left the contact cement surrounding the screw-access points though so easy to pull back in case something goes astray later on.
 
Toned back the Angelhair from high 0.3 grams down to the cusp of 0.2 and 0.3.
It's lucky I did all this because I noticed I left the stock inner dustguard under one of the damping pads on one side, and even this was noiticeable slightly since the special fuzzy damping wasn't directly contacting the driver rears, or basically the sound wasn't encountering that first..  Strange and nope I'm not crazy that I know of.
 
Next maybe I will try removing the baffle guard directly over the driver on a pair , the posts about doing that improving things markedly is a haunting idea that won't go away. Maybe recable it with SPC wire.
 
Posting this junk for the heck of it, mainly for my future reference also.
 I swear the larger version, even though they sound different, must use the same size drivers. Honestly can't see them making an entirely different one between the two sizes. Shells yes . Only thing that clued me into that was a suspiscion at first , then seeing a set of the largers up on a site and they had the same long black cup entry strain reliefs as the smaller things here as opposed to the noraml larger version's red and blue markings.
 
 Why do I feel the need to collect every variant ? Maybe there is some craziness here.
 
 Still not entirely figured out the stock damping schemes between the TDS-15 either, a fair bit but not all. Basically what place made what according to the white or gold lettering, circles, no circles, black or grey, vertical or horizontal magnet arrangements.
 
Another thing that bothers me to no end is  WHERE are the H-16's and H-100 ohms versions?
 
There's also TDS-7 variants. White vs gold lettering Yikes.

 

[nick n]

  So I got the memory foam HM5's, their pleather isn't as soft as the regular ones, the foam disc is stiffer and the extra distance from the drivers is a no-go in my case. I've let them sleep under a huge pile of books, maybe that'll help.
 
BTW, why don't the neo-ortho designers learn from the vintage ones? The Hifiman manager told me that he never heard a yamie, this might be true after all.
 
1) Lame attempts at damping: http://www.innerfidelity.com/content/audeze-lcd-x-fazor-and-fresh-listen-current-lcd-2-and-lcd-3
 
Angel Hair would be far more effective.

 
Are they improving any? the pads?
 
 I wonder if they still sell the old version as well as the new ones.
Any idea?
I checked but couldn't tell without an email to the seller.
By the way have you seen this
 http://www.head-fi.org/t/741698/new-brainwavz-hm5-pads-different-colours-velour-leather
 
Twaron Angel Hair: people are too cheap to bother maybe? Yet it is ridiculous amounts. And NOT expensive. I filled two fullsized JBL L-88speakers and two original Wharfedale Denton bookshelf ones to spec with a 100 gram sample bag with some to spare I think even...and the first bag is all over the place now 

  Stuff is absolutely awesome....
I wonder how often manufacturers actually dowse this thread for ideas. Seem very little from what I have read, in the way of damping methods, people with the newer stuff generally seem a bit too focussed on pad rolling without addressing what I see as the most obvious attack point. Right at the source.
pads are important yes but driver attack would be my first thing.
Easily repeatable methods abound.
Sorry for blabbing. I see this all the time.
I was coming in here for something else but now can't recall what that was after seeing leeperry's post
Feel free to ignore the useless rambling.
 
 
EDIT: just whipped into my first set of recabled HP-50A ( don't ask - MDR30 you have some competition now as far as HP-50's

) to tweak details.
this set does NOT have the white front earside damping papery layer anymore
Wow.
 Currently consists of rear ring of Arctic material covering outer perimeter of cup vents, ( probably Arctic Cotton magic sauce secret stuff will have to check notes )
then fullsized disk of Arctic material to cover vents again and also rear of driver ( so it overlaps stuff ),
then a direct Arctic disc same size as driver, fuzzy side against driver rear, with  a single layer of micropore  on backside to bring up details and clean up vocals etc.
 Will see if it needs a second layer.
 
This Arctic material with a back layer or two of Micropore method is proving to be excellent and repeatable effects over a few different arrangements and headphones. Tweakable in that it allows enough pass-through and reflecting  and also cleaning up things in general in the process by exposing details without sibilance like reflex dots tend to do..Completely different effect. Quite something each time it is used in this way = same deal.
Very fascinating actually.
Highly recommended even on a fuzzier felt ( backside always ). YESSIR! Complete change. You gotta try this setup. yep just VERY UBER clean tight detail increase without sibilance of any kind.
This is fascinatingly good, and also repeatable. 

( same effects as in the TDS-16 and others ) I'll be needing to revisit a few older things to "ultimatize" them now OMG.
Might put my JVC HP-DX700 urge to rest once and for all. ( don't hold me to that

)
 
yep stoked. No more sitting in the cabinet from being just average like before..
 Was just messaging someone with an HP-3 and described it best: Like dust free clear fresh air after a rainstorm :0
 
FURTHER EDIT:
 For some more tactile pulsating bass slam( still very tight ) remove the outer vent ring of Arctic Cotton. Or go thinner on that for a bit less clean rumble

 

[ericj]

Hey. Some of you may remember me from, this thread.

I regret to admit that i have broken my yh-100. Snapped a strut. I forget which side.

Have there been successful repairs?

Anybody got spare parts?

.:Sent by pneumatic tubes

 

[nick n]

How'd you manage to stay away for so long

 

[dBel84]

I have a spare assembly - send me your address and I will send them off to you. The cups have holes drilled in them but hopefully you can salvage the strut. The holey cups actually worked well and sounded great , you might want to play with them too..dB

 

[ericj]

The obsession over exotic woolens sort of put me off. And there was some behind the scenes stuff in the community that left a bad taste. And my job was spiralling out of control and ruining my life.

Plus i am pretty happy with my headphone collection. There are a few stax i might like to own, and maybe some of the new orthos, but i can't afford them.

Dbel, thank you for the kind offer. I'll take you up on it!

.:Sent by pneumatic tubes

 

[bootdsc]

Can anyone recommend a brand that makes inexpensive real leather ear pads? Needed for t50rp and my dt770 compatible 3d printed headset. My ears are setting tired of all the knockoff junk pads being sold on amazon, they are never that comfy and they fall apart way to fast with daily use.
 
Edit: and my ears are huge (fits well with my giant head) so i need something with extra deep padding.

 

[GREQ]

I've done a fair bit of research on leather earpads, and I'm pretty certain in this hobby the words 'leather' and 'inexpensive' never appear together.
I'm actually thinking of buying some soft leather and stitching my own pads... because I might be able to squeeze out 2 sets of pads out of one pelt.
 
I wouldn't mind using a super-thin bonded leather, but I guess they just don't make them thin enough. 

 

[bootdsc]

Well i guess it's all relative but that's why i used the word inexpensive and not cheap. Ill never drop $200+ just for some foam and a dozen square inches of leather. If you want to go the route of making your own check out using a form and press to create your shape so with say a donut you only have one outer and one inner seem. Ill elaborate if you like but my problem has also been finding a soft and thin leather to bother making my own but i have made pleather pads.