Orthodynamic Roundup
May 16, 2014 at 4:36 AM Post #22,981 of 26,868

MDR30

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  Think I ended up using HM5 pads. From the old  catalogs the modern MB Quart pads sure look the same as stock. Thomann has them I think as do MB Quart or whatever their company is called now. I lose track on that one.
Photo courtesy of Wikiphonia:

On a side note be careful if you decide to bypass that inline volume control the wiring in the cable is strange and doesn't like different solder very much.

 
 
I tried the Maestro pads as well, but the old ones sounded better. Well worth a try, though. I'm not a beliver of fancy cables, but in this case a replacement could improve the sound. The PMB cables are of steel to withstand physical abuse (maybe from their microphone lineup), but they also have as much as 7-10 ohms resistance, if I remember correctly, and definitely influence the sound.
 
And that volume control, o boy, I spent an afternoon taking it apart and putting it together again. With its carbon tracks it should be left out altogether.
 
May 16, 2014 at 6:34 AM Post #22,982 of 26,868

szerecsen

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That steel wire is indeed a bitschscchHsH. Took me a lot of time just to solder it back to the driver.
 
The volume control on this decent vintage ortho is a fancy nice surprise. I"ll definitely keep it.. 
wink.gif

 
May 16, 2014 at 7:05 AM Post #22,984 of 26,868

szerecsen

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I am preamping my DIY C3M tube amp with a DIY copy of the HEED Canamp for all of my planars.
 
It turned out to me that they require high volts besides high amperes. Especially I found the rp18 to be very hungry for volts.
 
So, I started to preamp the tubes. 
 
Here is a pic of my amp (I already linked this here some weeks ago):   
 

 
May 16, 2014 at 7:37 PM Post #22,985 of 26,868

bootdsc

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Oh, I see now, Blu-Tack it is.
 
Would you, guys, suggest only to cover the holes marked with the red circles on MDR30's drawing, or all of the larger ones, or even those small ones around the centre hole on the baffle?
 
From what you say, I feel you suggest to cover all the holes, like this:
 

 
 Am I correct?
 
szerecsen

I would cover all but one of the holes on the baffle and then test how it sounds with that last hole covered and uncovered. You want at least a tiny amount of air to pass through to let the pressure behind the driver diaphragm equalize.
 
May 16, 2014 at 7:45 PM Post #22,986 of 26,868

nick n

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  I would cover all but one of the holes on the baffle and then test how it sounds with that last hole covered and uncovered. You want at least a tiny amount of air to pass through to let the pressure behind the driver diaphragm equalize.


If you are sealing the driver to the baffle and decide on this trial, any of the inner perimeter of small holes are not granting access to the cup rears since these are still within the inner opening  ( inside the driver-to-baffle seal point )since the driver extends beyond those holes. You will have to leave one of the rectangular holes open to do that. If that's what you try.
 
May 17, 2014 at 5:01 AM Post #22,987 of 26,868

MuZo2

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  I would cover all but one of the holes on the baffle and then test how it sounds with that last hole covered and uncovered. You want at least a tiny amount of air to pass through to let the pressure behind the driver diaphragm equalize.


You mean ear side? Dual 830 is open headphone.
 
May 17, 2014 at 5:44 AM Post #22,988 of 26,868

szerecsen

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For now, I am doing it just as easy as this:
 

 
- All holes covered
- The driver is not sealed to the baffle, just fitted it in there the factory way
- just done this to the right earcup, now trying to compare the two sides (no holes covered on the left earpiece at all)
 
Need some time to compare them, but will provide feedback to you!
 
Best!
 
szerecsen
 
May 20, 2014 at 12:26 AM Post #22,991 of 26,868

nick n

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New project in the works. First stages.
 The other  Sony thing I posted last time is in a million different pieces hope I can reassemble it ok.
 Also got a killer looking thing  for another transplant, headband is similar to the Sony SA1000/3000/5000 series I'm excited about that one, some nice chrome looks totally unique. Will post when it shows up.
 
Using Echo H-16-40C, black badge-lettering one that if I am correct and according to the seller's auction way way back, was made in  a different place than normal. To make it more confusing it seems we have two variants made in KIEV. A small style TDS-16 and the large style one spoken of in the wiki and generally known as Kiev.
 
Far as I am aware the typical Echo H-16-40C with the white badge-lettering is made in SMELA.
 
So 2 Kiev's ( larger different style headphone and the smaller more basic looking styled one ), one Smela ( the smaller styled one with white lettering ). Confused? You should be.
I'll dig up the saved acution info next build post.
 
The Russian guy would know right...
If I am not mistaken the inner cable entry spot has the cabling routed through a secured little surround the cable runs through. Don't think that's the same in my others. Maybe it was???

Enough of that , it might stir some debate that's good. Or clear me up. I kinda don't really care but it is interesting :)
 
I wanted to use these drivers in a larger shell to allow for utilization of AngelHair to maximum effect and let the drivers fly free, since unlike stock this will have not much in front of them, and they are pretty fast things as it is, will have to see what happens. I always liked using Koss shells the baffles are always super easy to open up in front of the drivers, and there is space to toy around, and they are for the most part solid as a rock, older stuff anyhow. The Rare Koss KRD-711 shelled SFI I did up is still one of the better builds here it constantly surprises me both in comfort and spacious sound, and it is a closed one.
So in keeping with the  Klingonen style ( < link ) I wanted something industrial, strong/bold  and older looking that once done could pass for Soviet.
 Digging through the big stash of moddable headphones in the closet/drawers I came across this thing which to me should work perfect after painting the baffles black , a new cabling, adding in top and bottom mesh in the 2 cup recesses on each side ( one is a big hole to be used as vent on each one ), thinking HM5 pads, replace top headband foam with black leather pad applied in eaxct same spot, etc.
 
Anyone recognize this thing.
ph34r.gif
Super easy to open, screwless, simply put a thin screwdriver down a slot and bump a tiny tab top and botom, twist slightly to the side and off comes the baffle. .

yep looks like a pile of... but you have to have that vision!
wink_face.gif
 
 
May 20, 2014 at 3:43 AM Post #22,993 of 26,868

nick n

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also known as Realistic Pro20 :)
 
May 20, 2014 at 9:47 AM Post #22,994 of 26,868

fattyu

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Hello all. 
 
Just checking in. I am infected with the ortho disease as well.
 
Current stable ( some of them on still on the way to me ) is:
Hp1
Hp3
Hp50a ( stereo converted )
ss100
sl55
Pmb100
Pmb8
Hok 80-2
Tds16 smela 
 
I am pretty happy with these especially with the ss100 and the hp1. everything is stock here and for me the ss100 takes the cake above anything I ever heard. Unfortunately it is open and thus at work it is the hp1 as the main thing for me.
 
Still looking to score a pro 30 but no luck so far.
 
I already learnt a lot reading here and thanks all for the contribution
 

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