Orthodynamic Roundup
Feb 18, 2013 at 4:47 PM Post #21,151 of 27,203
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Electricians Putty (slang name Monkey S..T) available in bricks at Home Depot or Lowes will do. It's incredibly dense, we use it to make silent pellet traps as it stops about anything that vibrates.

 
Is there another name for it? I can't find anything like that through the home depot search.
 
Feb 18, 2013 at 6:45 PM Post #21,152 of 27,203
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I'm curious what that resistor's doing there, too; hopefully that won't need replacing.

The resistor is probably a special kind, a silistor, a type of PTC (positive temperature coefficient) thermistor. It's an overcurrent protection device. Yours may be a different kind of PTC thermistor, but the function is the same. I've often wondered if it would be possible to restore, at least partially, a typical half-blown electret headphone by simply jumpering these little devils. 
 
Feb 18, 2013 at 6:49 PM Post #21,153 of 27,203
Good to know.
 
The strain relief, as it turns out, is an overmoulded piece of rubber that isn't glued in place, it's just stuck with friction. So sticking a fine-tip screwdriver between the rubber and the wire at all contact points was enough to loosen it.
 
Right now I'm scrounging for a piece of wire to solder across the gap. You'd think I'd have done the most obvious step already. So would I.
 
Feb 18, 2013 at 8:35 PM Post #21,154 of 27,203
Something tells me it is a silistor-c... DON"T QUOTE ME THERE I forget which model I got it out of, oh YES it was from a Stax SR-40 I think I used the cable from. Same driver essentially. I may have posted that up in here or in the Philips EM6721 thread which is where the cable is used.
 
Interesting idea about jumpering it. I'd be inclined to replace the thing myself but how often would they be blown, and would it then now be completely dead on one side or?
 
 Have to love the directly damped rears there using that special yellow biscuit. It's what sets these and the stax drivers apart for sure.
 
Feb 18, 2013 at 8:40 PM Post #21,155 of 27,203
Quote:
 
Is there another name for it? I can't find anything like that through the home depot search.

 


Bugger, I bought a brick there not long ago. It was in the electrical section and I don't have the wrapper around. It's used to seal electrical boxes so if you ask for that they may know. Some one once told me it is the same as industrial duct seal putty so you might want to try that as well.
 
Hot Darn, a demo no less   http://www.schnarff.com/blog/?p=155
 
PS if you have one around the dollar store has chamois (real not fake) for 2 bucks. They also have a neat little leather insole which is foam backed that works a treat for pads.
 
Feb 18, 2013 at 8:46 PM Post #21,156 of 27,203
Quote:
The resistor is probably a special kind, a silistor, a type of PTC (positive temperature coefficient) thermistor. It's an overcurrent protection device. Yours may be a different kind of PTC thermistor, but the function is the same. I've often wondered if it would be possible to restore, at least partially, a typical half-blown electret headphone by simply jumpering these little devils. 


If you jumper it and it has a spike, are you not in the deep pain zone? Sort of like sticking a penny in a fuse box.
 
Feb 18, 2013 at 9:55 PM Post #21,158 of 27,203
Quote:
 


Bugger, I bought a brick there not long ago. It was in the electrical section and I don't have the wrapper around. It's used to seal electrical boxes so if you ask for that they may know. Some one once told me it is the same as industrial duct seal putty so you might want to try that as well.
 
Hot Darn, a demo no less   http://www.schnarff.com/blog/?p=155
 
PS if you have one around the dollar store has chamois (real not fake) for 2 bucks. They also have a neat little leather insole which is foam backed that works a treat for pads.


Something like this, I guess?
http://www.homedepot.ca/product/14-oz-plumbers-putty-s/959705
(well that one's a plumber putty of some sort)
 
Feb 18, 2013 at 10:28 PM Post #21,159 of 27,203
Feb 18, 2013 at 10:38 PM Post #21,160 of 27,203
Had trouble trying to assemble everything with the blu-tak involved, so on a lark I put it together without anything.
 
I've got some plumber's putty around here somewhere, and I might try that. The problem with the blu-tak was it wouldn't stay put for long enough to get everything back together; I couldn't make a fine enough bead to fit the space without it trying to shrink a bit.
 
 
So far, with the left side untouched and the right side rewired and gasket scraped out, I can't hear an imbalance. I suspect this has more to do with the foam being hard, brittle and cracked up in the left cup as well than with whether this is an optimal arrangement. Overall things sound pretty good. There's a slight sibilance and not much bass. I'm more worried about the former than the latter; The ATH-7 was never known for slammin' bass. That's what the tone knobs on the receiver are for...
 
Feb 18, 2013 at 11:22 PM Post #21,162 of 27,203
Hah, I just read your post on the Unipolar. I might have to find a set.
 
There's audible bass, but it's pretty rolled off and can sound like it's missing entirely if there's a lot of action in the midrange. I'm listening to "damn" by deadmau5 to see how well that works; without EQ, there's no bass to speak of, but with the 30 Hz and 150 Hz knobs on the receiver turned a little to the right it comes back enough to be audible, if not actually contribute to the energy of the track.
 
Feb 18, 2013 at 11:23 PM Post #21,163 of 27,203
Is there any different between TDS-5 and TDS-5M? Is this link TDS-5 or TDS-5M? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Rare-Soviet-Russian-Orthodynamic-planar-magnetic-Headphones-TDS-5-/121058630841?pt=US_Headphones&hash=item1c2fa81cb9
 
Feb 19, 2013 at 3:17 AM Post #21,165 of 27,203
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You're supposed to be the grownup and make sure it doesn't "has a spike".  Once the silistor is jumpered, you can determine if the 'phone is damaged. If not, replace the silistor.


Ah mea culpa, I thought you were advocating the jumper as a permanent replacement for the silistor.
 

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