[Dulalala]

Hi, sorry if this is a bit of a simple question but I'm afraid of bricking my driver and am not sure if this is the right way to remove it.

Spoiler: image

There are two clamps holding down the driver on the top and bottom of the picture, do I need to pry those back to remove the driver?

edit: image too big, inserted into spoiler

 

[dnalekaw]

Hi, sorry if this is a bit of a simple question but I'm afraid of bricking my driver and am not sure if this is the right way to remove it.

Spoiler: image

There are two clamps holding down the driver on the top and bottom of the picture, do I need to pry those back to remove the driver?

edit: image too big, inserted into spoiler

Yes, you need to remove the three inner screws on the front of the baffle first, then pry open the two aforementioned clamps to free the driver.

 

[Dulalala]

Yes, you need to remove the three inner screws on the front of the baffle first, then pry open the two aforementioned clamps to free the driver.

Thanks for the clarification!

On another note, has anyone tried printing the cups with PVA supports?

 

[Balazar]

For those of you using Facfox what material settings are you using? SLA like abs resin? FDM? There are several options for types of ABS FDM. Thanks in advance! And how did it work out with solid vs. hollow printing?

I have not tried Facfox. I have my own printers. I did 3 outer shells and 15% infill with the crosshatch pattern. I don't have a solid infill set to compare to. It would require too much effort to duplicate the build that I have exactly except for the shells. One thing that makes these builds fun is the idea that your build will probably be 100% unique (tailored to your taste). I am sticking with the hollow because Dan Clark has a stated reason for doing so (isolation). In my eyes he did a ton of research to come up with this design and I will keep that aspect of the build true to the original because experimenting with shell tweeks is just too much for me to handle. How much difference does it make? I don't know. Make two sets and tell us witch one you like better Here is an idea for you. Do a hollow shell on SLA. Keep light exposure to a minimum and paint it so the trapped uncured liquid resin is never allowed to cure. Now you have hollow shells with liquid inside that could create a fluid damping effect for isolation.

 

[DenverW]

Thanks a billion for responding! Unfortunately since I’m buying from a vendor I have to try to get it right the first time to keep costs down. I think I will choose to not completely fill the cups, though. I can always ask them what the percentage is.

still curious what material people who’ve used facfox are using...

 

[OkinaDaikon]

I was just fiddling with their site, looks like they have a material option in the quoting sections. I only got options for PLA though.

I printed my own with PLA and it turned out fine. I believe I used 25% infill on mine. A word of caution though, PLA tends to softens around 70 degrees celsius. I would avoid leaving your headphones in the car on a hot day. You might risk warping the cups.

 

[Balazar]

I think the reason Mr Speakers decided to use ABS, is that it is easy to finish with acetone. It's super easy to smooth the ridges with acetone, lightly sand and then paint. Other materials like nylon are harder to finish. Lots of sanding ect. PLA would be ok for finishing, but like OkinaDaikon said, the heat limitations are there. Nylon is probably the strongest. I have a set made from nylon and another from ABS. The nylon is ok was a pain to finish. I will go ABS for all future endeavors.

 

[OkinaDaikon]

I've been planning to print another in ABS too! but this project branched out into another money draining hobby haha.

@Balazar do you have a 3d printer your self? I find ABS particularly hard to print due to shrinkage. I also don't have an enclosure for my 3d printer for this issue.

 

[Balazar]

I've been planning to print another in ABS too! but this project branched out into another money draining hobby haha.

@Balazar do you have a 3d printer your self? I find ABS particularly hard to print due to shrinkage. I also don't have an enclosure for my 3d printer for this issue.

I have a Prusa i3 that I originally built from scratch in 2011 and I have upgraded it over time. It has a Wades extruder, e3D hot end and a decent heated bed. The frame is MDF and it has a RAMBO 1.1 board. I am running 3mm black ABS. It's a dinosaur compared to what you can buy today, but it has been a workhorse that still performs well. If you get the right settings for your printer you should do just fine. The video of the commercial production of Alpha cups shows printers very similar to mine. I do a raft and a wall around the part as it prints. If it cools too quickly it will warp. You don't need an enclosure unless you are printing in a cold garage or next to an open window with a breeze, or something like that. Just keep the bed heater on for a minute after it's finished, then let it cool slowly. Don't try to pull it off the bed until it is fully cooled. Make sure your bed gets hot enough (110c) and is evenly hot. I have the bed 10 degrees hotter for the first few layers. I also have the hot end a little hotter for the first few layers. Don't use your cooling fan if you have one. If you do a little searching you can find all sorts of advice for calibrating your printer and dialing in the print settings.

 

[omegaorgun]

Facfox is legit! These are the modded 3.5mm .
bass version.

 

[OkinaDaikon]

Facfox is legit! These are the modded 3.5mm .
bass version.

Wow beautiful. How much did that cost you?

 

[omegaorgun]

Wow beautiful. How much did that cost you?

$104 posted per set which included the baffles and pad rings which are black. We got a deal because we got two sets, it should be a similar price.

 

[omegaorgun]

Does anyone have a stencil I could print for the section around the driver? I want to cut some damping and already glued the parts.

 

[omegaorgun]

 

[musicfan145]

Does anyone have a stencil I could print for the section around the driver? I want to cut some damping and already glued the parts.

Here’s a stencil for cutting the felt on the ear side of the driver:
https://www.tinkercad.com/things/67PFtjAkzmN

Here’s a stencil for cutting the gasket between the ear cup and baffle assembly.

https://www.tinkercad.com/things/0oTNXVKIY0O