"Open Alpha" T50 3D printed headphone project from MrSpeakers
Dec 5, 2016 at 2:24 PM Post #136 of 979
Make sure you don't fill in the bass port holes with paint or they will be a nightmare to tune. Learned that one the hard way. 
wink_face.gif

 
Dec 5, 2016 at 5:59 PM Post #137 of 979
Make sure you don't fill in the bass port holes with paint or they will be a nightmare to tune. Learned that one the hard way. :wink_face:


Many thanks for the precious reminder! This surely falls in the category of the "obvious" things, which suddenly slip out of control, until the disaster has been accomplished! :wink:
I'll most likely use some metal paper clips to preserve the holes, by inserting them from the inside of the cups.

On a totally different note, I'd really appreciate some help with the Hirose connectors.
I've seen the note included on the PDF file with the exploded view of the cups, indicating that Pin # 1 on the receptacle is for the signal, while Pin # 2 is for the ground.

Would it be possible to get confirmation that the PIN numbers are intended as viewed from the internal side of the Hirose connector, where the internal wires will be soldered?

Also, I'd be grateful if someone could shed som light on the correct pinouts for the plugs on the headphone cable as well.
Unfortunately, I have zero experience with the Hirose connectors, so I'm really afraid I could end up mixing the scheme up, thus rendering the connection between the cable and the headphone null! :-/

Many thanks for any indications on the above!
 
Dec 5, 2016 at 8:48 PM Post #139 of 979
On a totally different note, I'd really appreciate some help with the Hirose connectors.
I've seen the note included on the PDF file with the exploded view of the cups, indicating that Pin # 1 on the receptacle is for the signal, while Pin # 2 is for the ground.

Would it be possible to get confirmation that the PIN numbers are intended as viewed from the internal side of the Hirose connector, where the internal wires will be soldered?

Also, I'd be grateful if someone could shed som light on the correct pinouts for the plugs on the headphone cable as well.
Unfortunately, I have zero experience with the Hirose connectors, so I'm really afraid I could end up mixing the scheme up, thus rendering the connection between the cable and the headphone null! :-/

Many thanks for any indications on the above!

If you look at the side of the connector that you solder under a magnifying lens, you will see that each pin is numbered. I'd take a picture but I don't have a macro lens. 
 
Dec 6, 2016 at 5:22 AM Post #140 of 979
Many thanks for the info!
 
I'm waiting for the Hirose receptacles to be delivered. Once received, I will take a macro shot of the connector and share the photo on this thread, in case it could be useful to others in the future.
 
Meanwhile, I'd like to ask one more question:
 
I guess pin #1  and pin #2 on the receptacles (female connector) are mirrored on the cable plugs accordingly, so that both pins on the two connectors will match when the cable is plugged into the headphone jacks, right? Or should the pinouts on the two connectors be figured out properly when soldering the wires to the receptacle and plugs (i.e. is Pin#1 the signal/positive and Pin#2 the ground/negative on both connectors, or should the orientation of the two connectors be considered and reverse the pins on one of the two accordingly?).
 
Dec 6, 2016 at 6:59 AM Post #141 of 979
I'm going to receive my cups very soon. I am also working on a thunderpants mod for my t50rps. I'm busy right now, so in the coming months I will post a review of both and a comparison. 
Another question I have is what would be a good amp to drive the alphas? I'm leaning towards the Project Ember 2, Beezar Torpedo 1, Schiit Asgard 2 and Valhalla, but I can't decide. 


I'd consider a Gustard H10 as well.
 
Dec 6, 2016 at 8:14 AM Post #142 of 979
  Many thanks for the info!
 
I'm waiting for the Hirose receptacles to be delivered. Once received, I will take a macro shot of the connector and share the photo on this thread, in case it could be useful to others in the future.
 
Meanwhile, I'd like to ask one more question:
 
I guess pin #1  and pin #2 on the receptacles (female connector) are mirrored on the cable plugs accordingly, so that both pins on the two connectors will match when the cable is plugged into the headphone jacks, right? Or should the pinouts on the two connectors be figured out properly when soldering the wires to the receptacle and plugs (i.e. is Pin#1 the signal/positive and Pin#2 the ground/negative on both connectors, or should the orientation of the two connectors be considered and reverse the pins on one of the two accordingly?).

The pins are numbered on the solder side. Depending on your, um, maturity level, you will need to use a magnifier to see the numbers and to solder the wires. I wrote up something on the DIY cables thread about the pinouts of MrSpeakers connectors and some others: http://www.head-fi.org/t/676402/diy-cable-questions-and-comments-thread/6045#post_12982540
 
Dec 6, 2016 at 6:50 PM Post #143 of 979
I'd consider a Gustard H10 as well.


Amp choice is kinda personal and everyone will have a different answer. They'll all be correct.

Personally:

Considering sound only:
Torpedo>Ember>Valhalla>Gustard>Asgard.

Disclaimer: I've never heard a gustard though, so I'm going straight off secondhand accounts.

Things to consider:

Valhalla is an OTL, so while it'll work and sound good, it really isn't an ideal match like the Ember and Torpedo.

The Torpedo is awesome, but it's much more expensive than the rest. (Unless you assemble it yourself)

The Ember can be bought as a kit, but buying it assembled only adds a small markup.

Final fit and finish will put the Torpedo a distant last. The Ember is slightly behind the Schiits and Gustard.

The Torpedo form factor is really crappy! It doesn't fit well on a desk. All the rest are fairly small and convenient.

For straight ease, the Gustard and Asgard are ahead of the others. If you like to tinker (and you probably do since you're reading this thread) the Torpedo offers the most customization options during the build and the Ember offers the most after the build.

If you want to include tube rolling as part of your Open Alpha tuning, the Ember has by far the most options. (Even FrankenEmber)
 
Dec 7, 2016 at 4:40 AM Post #144 of 979
Amp choice is kinda personal and everyone will have a different answer. They'll all be correct.

Personally:

Considering sound only:
Torpedo>Ember>Valhalla>Gustard>Asgard.

Disclaimer: I've never heard a gustard though, so I'm going straight off secondhand accounts.

Things to consider:

Valhalla is an OTL, so while it'll work and sound good, it really isn't an ideal match like the Ember and Torpedo.

The Torpedo is awesome, but it's much more expensive than the rest. (Unless you assemble it yourself)

The Ember can be bought as a kit, but buying it assembled only adds a small markup.

Final fit and finish will put the Torpedo a distant last. The Ember is slightly behind the Schiits and Gustard.

The Torpedo form factor is really crappy! It doesn't fit well on a desk. All the rest are fairly small and convenient.

For straight ease, the Gustard and Asgard are ahead of the others. If you like to tinker (and you probably do since you're reading this thread) the Torpedo offers the most customization options during the build and the Ember offers the most after the build.

If you want to include tube rolling as part of your Open Alpha tuning, the Ember has by far the most options. (Even FrankenEmber)


I just went back and reread this old article from Headfonics: http://headfonics.com/2014/08/12-flagship-headphones-compared-the-totl-guide/12/

According to Michael the Alphas sound best with a 2+ watt amp with a warm signature. This pretty much narrows your list down to the Ember. (I can't find the specs on the Torpedo)

If you want other options that match this description, you may want to consider the Lyr. It would probably be a better match than the other Schiits.
 
Dec 7, 2016 at 5:06 PM Post #145 of 979
  The pins are numbered on the solder side. Depending on your, um, maturity level, you will need to use a magnifier to see the numbers and to solder the wires. I wrote up something on the DIY cables thread about the pinouts of MrSpeakers connectors and some others: http://www.head-fi.org/t/676402/diy-cable-questions-and-comments-thread/6045#post_12982540


I've received the Hirose receptacle today (HR10A-7R-4S).
I've taken out my camera and macro lens and took a picture of the connector from the back (pins side):
 

 
I was quite surprised to see such an offset between the pins and the reference numbers! Quite confusing! :)
 
Am I right in my understanding that the order of the pins is the following?
 
1   4
 
2   3
 
Many thanks again!
 
Dec 7, 2016 at 5:22 PM Post #146 of 979
 
I've received the Hirose receptacle today (HR10A-7R-4S).
I've taken out my camera and macro lens and took a picture of the connector from the back (pins side):
 

 
I was quite surprised to see such an offset between the pins and the reference numbers! Quite confusing! :)
 
Am I right in my understanding that the order of the pins is the following?
 
1   4
 
2   3
 
Many thanks again!


WEIRD! That is not how mine are labeled at all. It's clear as can be the pins on mine. They may as well not even labeled them at all.
 
Give me a little bit to see if I can get a picture of one of mine for you.
 
Dec 7, 2016 at 5:30 PM Post #147 of 979
Pics aren't happening, sorry, but on mine the pins are:
 
4 1
3 2
 
So long as you are consistent, it should be ok so long as you are not mixing cables with Dan's. If it were me, I'd be using Dan's pinouts though.
 
Dec 7, 2016 at 7:02 PM Post #148 of 979
Now, this is really strange!

Sorry for double checking... but are you looking at an Hirose female or male connector?

If yours is a male connector, then I guess it's normal that the pinouts are reversed/mirrored when compared to mine.
It should be a design feature, in order for each pin on a female connector to match the corresponding pin number on the male connector... if your connector is a male one, we have a definitive answer! :wink:


Edit: To clarify, the photo I've posted before is showing one of the two female receptacles (HR10A-7R-4S), the ones to be mounted on the headphone cups.
 
Dec 7, 2016 at 8:14 PM Post #149 of 979
Now, this is really strange!

Sorry for double checking... but are you looking at an Hirose female or male connector?

If yours is a male connector, then I guess it's normal that the pinouts are reversed/mirrored when compared to mine.
It should be a design feature, in order for each pin on a female connector to match the corresponding pin number on the male connector... if your connector is a male one, we have a definitive answer! :wink:


Edit: To clarify, the photo I've posted before is showing one of the two female receptacles (HR10A-7R-4S), the ones to be mounted on the headphone cups.


HR10A-7J-4S is the mate to what Dan uses on his cables pinout from the back, with the notch up is:
 
1 4
2 3
 
HR10A-7P-4P, which is what Dan uses on his cables, pinout from the back, with the notch up is:
 
4 1
3 2
 
I don't have the part that attaches to the headphones. The pinout should match the HR10A-7J-4S. So long as it matches the connector on the end of the cable, it should be fine.
 
Dec 8, 2016 at 9:46 AM Post #150 of 979
 
I don't have the part that attaches to the headphones. The pinout should match the HR10A-7J-4S. So long as it matches the connector on the end of the cable, it should be fine.

 
Many thanks for further clarifying this point!
 
Yes, the part that attaches to the headphone (Hirose receptacle, P/N: HR10A-7R-4S) shares the same pinout with the Hirose Jack (P/N: HR10A-7J-4S).
 
So... in essence, and to recap, the pinout of the receptacle to be mounted on the headphone is:
 
1  4
2  3
 
(Looking from the back, with the small notch up).
 
Thanks again! Hope this will be useful to others as well!
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top