"Open Alpha" T50 3D printed headphone project from MrSpeakers
Dec 2, 2016 at 2:14 PM Post #121 of 837
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Dan Clark Audio Make every day a fun day filled with music and friendship! Stay updated on Dan Clark Audio at their sponsor profile on Head-Fi.
 
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Dec 2, 2016 at 2:14 PM Post #122 of 837

ktmracer12345

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The first pair!
 
Couple questions:
1. Do you have a materials list?
2. Any surprise expenses?
3. Any special equipment needed? I have a soldering gun, 3D printer, and basic tools (pliers, scissors, knives, screwdrivers, etc.) 
 
I'm just worried because for me, DIY tends to run about 10x the predicted cost. Hence the reason I am the proud owner of a $1500 pinewood derby car. It came with a free table saw, scroll saw, 3D printer, drill, drill press, axle jig, hand sander, dremel, vinyl cutter, half dozen cans of paint, primer, clear coat, etc. My bill for actual pinewood derby parts (wheels, axles, weights, block) was under $150. 
 
I calculate up the costs in my head and it seems to be under $250. What is the real cost?
 
Dec 2, 2016 at 2:15 PM Post #123 of 837

Eudis

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I'll be uploading editable IGIS and Parasolid files for the 3D models to the first post.  Have to sort a few issues out to get them posted, it seems.


Ive successfully managed to import the .stl for modification. I can upload other converted file types as well if youd like.


I user blender to model (i know i should use something better haha).
 
Dec 2, 2016 at 6:58 PM Post #124 of 837
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IGES and Parasolid formats for the files have been added to the first link.
 
Dan Clark Audio Make every day a fun day filled with music and friendship! Stay updated on Dan Clark Audio at their sponsor profile on Head-Fi.
 
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Dec 2, 2016 at 9:35 PM Post #125 of 837

Arty McGhee

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Beautiful, how do they sound to you?  Did you have any other questions?

 Thanks,  they sound really good, i used pair of tr50p's that i had modded to death and it still sounded like crap. i had micropore tape on the back of the driver when i removed it the paper backing came off with it, so i just left it off everything fit together really well and printed easily, i wanted to use velour pads but they sounded like crap, i tried the alpha pads and still wasn't happy, i put the HM5 pleathers on there (eccentric ones) and holy crap, these sound really good, excellent isolation and soundstage, strong well defined bass forward mids and slightly rolled off trebles (which is a preference of mine, previously the highs were shrill and annoying) i never thought a tr50p could sound so good...
 
 
 
The first pair!
 
Couple questions:
1. Do you have a materials list?
2. Any surprise expenses?
3. Any special equipment needed? I have a soldering gun, 3D printer, and basic tools (pliers, scissors, knives, screwdrivers, etc.) 
 
I'm just worried because for me, DIY tends to run about 10x the predicted cost. Hence the reason I am the proud owner of a $1500 pinewood derby car. It came with a free table saw, scroll saw, 3D printer, drill, drill press, axle jig, hand sander, dremel, vinyl cutter, half dozen cans of paint, primer, clear coat, etc. My bill for actual pinewood derby parts (wheels, axles, weights, block) was under $150. 
 
I calculate up the costs in my head and it seems to be under $250. What is the real cost?

um ok
 
the materials list is on the first page, the exploded diagram even lists what screws to use i substituted the rean connectors for the hirose's they cost $1.50 ea. my cost was very little, i had set of tr50's, i have a pretty good selection of filament around, the rest is sandpaper and time, i dont have a lot of fancy tools, the hardest part is finishing,  this stuff is great;
 
https://www.amazon.com/HATCHBOX-3D-WOOD-1KG1-75-Filament-Dimensional/dp/B01092XXD4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480732346&sr=8-1&keywords=hatchbox+wood
 
it sands fairly easy and takes a finish like wood, eliminating the need for epoxies and noxious fumes, the ones in the photo are sanded to 400 grit and rubbed with a bit of vegetable oil
 

 
Dec 2, 2016 at 10:06 PM Post #126 of 837

bigro

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I'm Not going to get into why I have a set of MK II and an MKIII TR40's But Just a heads up the inner cup is different, The head band is different as well as the ear pads. The MKIII Head Band is padded with that big ugly silver fostex Logo on it. It is decently comfortable .The foam in front of the driver is different as well as The grill in front of the driver is different.The MKIII has a very thin almost not there grid in front of the driver and the MKII seems to have plastic with round holes which block most of the driver. Personally I think the MKIII is a better starting point for light mods. It Looks like it will not really have any issues with the alpha project as you are not using a lot of these parts however the earpads on the MKIII will not work on the MKII but the MKII Earpads will work on the MKIII. What this means is That if you bought an MKIII and are printing new cups you need new ear pads. Also the white felt/fabric on the back of the driver is different . The MKII is Solid and there is a Square cutout on the MKIII. 
 
Dec 2, 2016 at 10:14 PM Post #127 of 837

caenlenfromOCN

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Anyone on here willing to let me pay for labor and the pre-made cups and do this mod for me? I already own the Fostex T20RP MKIII, I would pay shipping both ways and labor as well as it is reasonable... anyone willing to help me out here?  Just PM me please if so.
 
Dec 3, 2016 at 12:09 PM Post #128 of 837

Wuthoqquan

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Although I was initially not in the mindset to endeavor in this project, after looking at the great work done by Arty McGhee I decided to carry on and start getting the pieces required to modify my T50RP-MKIII.
 
Today the lab that I selected a few days ago on 3Dhubs has sent a preview of one of the cups, right off the printer.
 


 
The idea is to paint the cups in glossy paint, after having finished them with sandpaper and used a primer to protect the ABS. Since they will be painted, is it anyway required to wipe the external side with acetone (and then maybe further finish them again with a finer sandpaper before applying the primer/paint)?
 
Dec 3, 2016 at 1:30 PM Post #129 of 837

Arty McGhee

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  Although I was initially not in the mindset to endeavor in this project, after looking at the great work done by Arty McGhee I decided to carry on and start getting the pieces required to modify my T50RP-MKIII.
 
Today the lab that I selected a few days ago on 3Dhubs has sent a preview of one of the cups, right off the printer.
 
 
 
 
The idea is to paint the cups in glossy paint, after having finished them with sandpaper and used a primer to protect the ABS. Since they will be painted, is it anyway required to wipe the external side with acetone (and then maybe further finish them again with a finer sandpaper before applying the primer/paint)?

those look good, there's a lot of views on finishing, sanding etc, first are they made of abs?, there are some epoxies out there to help smooth  it this stuff;
 
https://www.amazon.com/XTC-3D-High-Performance-Print-Coating/dp/B00PFXK4JY/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1480788824&sr=8-8&keywords=epoxy+3d
 
or you could us a bondo, or "red lead" type of automotive filler
 
either way i would treat it like car painting, coat ,sand sand sand, start at like 200 grit and sand to 800 or 1000, wet sanding with a block then by hand
when its smooth as a baby's bottom, then prime and paint- lotsa light coats is better'n few thick coats, let dry wet sand again lightly (color sanding its called)
very carefully with 800 0r 1000 grit then a couple coats of clear and you have a show quality paint job
 
lots of info on the web and youtube, also reddit
 
https://www.amazon.com/XTC-3D-High-Performance-Print-Coating/dp/B00PFXK4JY/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1480788824&sr=8-8&keywords=epoxy+3d
 
i'll post more later of what i'm working on this is what i started

now i'm here

 
good luck
 
Dec 3, 2016 at 3:00 PM Post #130 of 837

Arty McGhee

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mock up for a "prettier set"
wood pla with 10-12 coats of formby's
HM5 pads (15 bucks black friday)
3.5mm jacks mounted in 0 rings to reduce microphonics
waitng for the Mk3 drivers
 

 
want to hear what an ABS set will sound like
sanded these smooth to the touch and rubbed with a little vegetable oil
 

 
Dec 3, 2016 at 7:27 PM Post #131 of 837

ktmracer12345

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Although I was initially not in the mindset to endeavor in this project, after looking at the great work done by Arty McGhee I decided to carry on and start getting the pieces required to modify my T50RP-MKIII.

Today the lab that I selected a few days ago on 3Dhubs has sent a preview of one of the cups, right off the printer.






The idea is to paint the cups in glossy paint, after having finished them with sandpaper and used a primer to protect the ABS. Since they will be painted, is it anyway required to wipe the external side with acetone (and then maybe further finish them again with a finer sandpaper before applying the primer/paint)?


Regardless of the type of primer and paint, you'll need a really nice surface to start. I'd definitely acetone the outside. Acetone, sand fairly well through about 400, hi lift primer, wet sand primer, more primer, wet sand, more primer, paint 5-6 coats, wet sand, 1 more paint layer, 3-4 clear coat layers.

http://www.rustoleum.com/en/product-catalog/consumer-brands/auto/primers/filler-primer-spray

Also, if you do an extremely light layer of paint after priming and before sanding, you'll know where you still need to sand.
 
Dec 4, 2016 at 10:09 AM Post #132 of 837

Wuthoqquan

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those look good, there's a lot of views on finishing, sanding etc, first are they made of abs?

...

either way i would treat it like car painting, coat ,sand sand sand, start at like 200 grit and sand to 800 or 1000, wet sanding with a block then by hand
when its smooth as a baby's bottom, then prime and paint- lotsa light coats is better'n few thick coats, let dry wet sand again lightly (color sanding its called)
very carefully with 800 0r 1000 grit then a couple coats of clear and you have a show quality paint job

good luck


Yes, the cups have been printed using an ABS filament, using a Zortrax M200 printer.

Many thanks for the tips provided on how to finish the cups before painting them. My intention is also to proceed with treating them like a car paintwork. I would actually use some leftover of the micalized (pearlescent) mid-dark blue paint of my car, after having treated them properly to protect the ABS plastic.

On a total different note, could you please confirm which type of HM5 pads did you like the most so far? Are those the angled pads version of the HM5, with a width of 40mm on the back and 25mm on the front? At least, that's what I understand by looking at the pictures you have posted.

Many thanks again!
 
Dec 4, 2016 at 3:39 PM Post #133 of 837

Arty McGhee

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Regardless of the type of primer and paint, you'll need a really nice surface to start. I'd definitely acetone the outside. Acetone, sand fairly well through about 400, hi lift primer, wet sand primer, more primer, wet sand, more primer, paint 5-6 coats, wet sand, 1 more paint layer, 3-4 clear coat layers.

http://www.rustoleum.com/en/product-catalog/consumer-brands/auto/primers/filler-primer-spray

Also, if you do an extremely light layer of paint after priming and before sanding, you'll know where you still need to sand.

i couldn't remember the name of that primer, i haven't used it but i've heard its good stuff
i would reccomend all these steps the more prep, the better the finish
 
the pads are these, not angled
 
https://www.amazon.com/Brainwavz-Replacement-Memory-Foam-Earpads/dp/B00MFDT894/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1480883697&sr=8-2&keywords=hm5+pads
 
they were 15 bucks black friday, they may go on sale again
 
good luck and post pictures
 
Dec 4, 2016 at 6:13 PM Post #134 of 837

Wuthoqquan

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  the pads are these, not angled
 
https://www.amazon.com/Brainwavz-Replacement-Memory-Foam-Earpads/dp/B00MFDT894/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1480883697&sr=8-2&keywords=hm5+pads
 
they were 15 bucks black friday, they may go on sale again
 
good luck and post pictures

 
Many thanks Arty! A few days ago, I almost bought the angled pads... :-/
 
Now, after your confirmation that you were actually referring to the normal, not angled ones, I went back on Amazon and did some comparisons, which - to my surprise - even made me notice that the angled ones are smaller (width of 80mm instead of 90mm). So, the angled pads could even be a tighter fit or not fit at all on the Open Alpha pad ring...
 
I went on and purchased the Brainwavz pleather pads on Amazon.it (I'm from Italy) for the equivalent of US$19. Many thanks again for clarifying which version of the pads to buy, on the basis of your experience so far.
 
Dec 4, 2016 at 10:05 PM Post #135 of 837
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I'm going to receive my cups very soon. I am also working on a thunderpants mod for my t50rps. I'm busy right now, so in the coming months I will post a review of both and a comparison. 
Another question I have is what would be a good amp to drive the alphas? I'm leaning towards the Project Ember 2, Beezar Torpedo 1, Schiit Asgard 2 and Valhalla, but I can't decide. 
 

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