scorpionate13
New Head-Fier
- Joined
- Dec 28, 2016
- Posts
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- Likes
- 1
hi everyone.
*i should note that this is a repair guide for the people who are capable on repairing electronics, more specifically smart devices. if you bought a second hand device, or a new device with the problem with the headphone jack, this is for you. it is worth noting that once you opened the device, the warranty is voided. if your device is still under warranty, i suggest taking advantage of it, otherwise proceed at risk. A lot of the procedures require delicate hands on work. i will try my best to describe the procedures*
to anyone who is looking for a way to fix the problem with their 3.5mm jack that shifts from side-to-side and back and forth, you are now reading into a step-by-step guide on how to repair the jack yourself. you will require a few tools;
*i am experienced when it comes to fixing smartphones and smart devices, but i am NOT a professional. this is for people who are handy.*
-Blow dryer
-container (for the mini screws)
-Crazy glue epoxy
-Firm Epoxy
-Bright desk light
-a plastic drinking straw (described as thin piece of plastic)
-Small philips head screw driver (iphone repair screw driver is acceptable)
-Smartphone glass glue
-Scalpel or guitar pick (preferably guitar pick that is thin but strong)
-Sewing needle
-Tweezers
1). first, start by heating up the glass with the blow dryer until the device is slightly hot. Make sure the screen on the onkyo DP-x1 doesn't get too hot, or it will damage the screen PERMANENTLY.
2). once the glass is slightly hot, run your guitar pick or scalpel starting at the bottom of the screen and continue along the whole device. (* IMPORTANT* : be careful on how much of the scalpel/guitar pick you put into the device. you might risk cutting ribbon wires which would be very upsetting to cut or ruin by accident. the ribbon wires are located at the top right of the device*)
3). once the screen and glass assembly is lifted, there are 2 ribbon wires that are located at the top right of the device. tilt the screen upwards towards the right to expose the ribbon wires.
4). you will see that there are tabs that lift up where the ribbon wires are fastened into. lift the Beige tabs to release the wire. i would use the guitar pick or a piece of long flat plastic to pry the tab up.
5). once the tabs are loose, gently push the 2 ribbon wires out of the tab lock sockets. this will completely release the screen. set the screen down on a non-static surface.
6). once the screen is gone, you will see a metal shielding plate which isolates the circuit boards from the screen, you will need to un-do the 6 screws that hold down the large metal shielding.
7). once the shielding is un-screwed from the housing, you will need to remove a piece of isolating tape that goes from the large metal shielding to another ribbon cable that will be close to the bottom of the device. the color of this tape is silver.
8). after the shielding is removed from the device, you will see 2 circuit boards in the device; the left circuit board is the one we want to look at. you will see the ribbon cable we removed the tape from earlier. you will have to remove it from the board, it has a piece of black security tape on it, that needs to be removed so that the black tab can be lifted to release the ribbon cable. that cable acts as the bridge from one board to the other. it is critical that the ribbon is not damaged, be extremely careful!
9). there is a microphone at the bottom of the device on the left side. it is the tiny braided red and black wire with a plug that is plugged into a socket. you want to remove that plug by gently wiggling the plug from left to right to shimmy the plug out.
10). you will see two other philips head screws that need to be removed; one at the top right near the headphone jacks and the other at the bottom left. these screws are easily spotted, as they are the only ones highlighted by a copper ring.
11). once that is done, the circuit board can be removed by elevating the bottom portion of the circuit board and removing it from the device with caution. *there are a series of capacitors under the board, DO NOT DAMAGE those or the device will no longer send or produce audio signal*
12). now you are at the headphone jack, there are a few things to analyze; check to see that the 3.5mm headphone jack is straight, and look at the jack to see if any metal is sticking out of it. this is easy to see since there is a small white outline which the jack should be situated within, if it is not, that can be re-aligned by adding a thin piece of plastic to correct the crooked position. the thin plastic piece can be added between the circuit board and the socket housing. add crazy glue to secure the piece of plastic in place.
13). once you have finished re-aligning the socket, there are 2 tabs that need to be re-positioned in the 3.5mm jack. you will see the tabs when you turn the circuit board around . the tabs are on the same side as the capacitors on the board. The second tab is the one that is closest to the metal plate on the 3.5mm jack. that is the tab creating the issue of the headphones disconnecting every so often. the process is to bend the tab out from is resting position to repair the lack of tension on this tab. since the device is opened up, you might as well repair both of them to restore the 3.5mm jack's ability to connect to the headphones appropriately.
14). now, take the sewing needle and put (firm but gentle) force on the one of the tabs to repair the lack of tension. *use the desk light to keep an eye on what is happening inside the jack to see how much the metal tabs are being bent. if the tabs are over bent, there could be a physical problem with the jack. it is remedied by using the sewing needle to bend the metal tabs as close as you can towards the wall of the 3.5mm jack. bending the tabs might damage/break the metal tabs , so be careful when doing this*
15). insert your headphone plug to ensure that you have put the correct amount of tension or "bend" to the two inner contacts in the jack. *if the tabs were over-bent, the plug might bind on one of these tabs inside the jack. the easiest way to fix this is to insert a headphone plug, see which tab is binding and move the tab into its own channel. the sewing needle will come in handy here for manipulating the tabs inside the jack*
16). now that the jack was repaired now you can re-assemble the device! read the instructions of the guide in ascending order for re-assembly. *Note: you will need to re-apply some Smartphone glass glue to replace the old glue that was on the device screen.*
17). after the device is closed up, take a piece of solid epoxy and roll it to a very thin strand to fit in the area where the large gap is for the 3.5mm headphone jack. give the epoxy time to set so that the epoxy can harden up and finish the job. this will conclude the guide to repairing the 3.5mm headphone jack.
i will try to add photos, but this forum is not letting me since i am considered i guest i suppose. hopefully you can re-use your expensive music player. i hope this guide was helpful to you and leave me any suggestions or concerns regarding my guide. or about the device
in this fix, i noticed that even the most expensive devices can have major flaws. i have heard of problems with the 2.5mm jack, but i have not used mine so i don't have a bad experience with it yet. there is a fundamental flaw with both the jacks considering that the are DIRECTLY SOLDERED to the circuit board which is archaic in terms of design. most smart devices that have a compact style build usually have the 3.5mm jack that has contact points that are NOT SOLDERED to the board, but have contact points on the jack that touch 2 or more points on the phone's/smart device's circuit board (also know as the logic board). my guide is just here to tell you that even fundamental flaws can be corrected by delicate work and patients. anyone will tell you that they hate loosing a lot of money on something that did not last as long as it should have.
P.S. if someone could help me post pictures, i will do this imediately.
*i should note that this is a repair guide for the people who are capable on repairing electronics, more specifically smart devices. if you bought a second hand device, or a new device with the problem with the headphone jack, this is for you. it is worth noting that once you opened the device, the warranty is voided. if your device is still under warranty, i suggest taking advantage of it, otherwise proceed at risk. A lot of the procedures require delicate hands on work. i will try my best to describe the procedures*
to anyone who is looking for a way to fix the problem with their 3.5mm jack that shifts from side-to-side and back and forth, you are now reading into a step-by-step guide on how to repair the jack yourself. you will require a few tools;
*i am experienced when it comes to fixing smartphones and smart devices, but i am NOT a professional. this is for people who are handy.*
-Blow dryer
-container (for the mini screws)
-Crazy glue epoxy
-Firm Epoxy
-Bright desk light
-a plastic drinking straw (described as thin piece of plastic)
-Small philips head screw driver (iphone repair screw driver is acceptable)
-Smartphone glass glue
-Scalpel or guitar pick (preferably guitar pick that is thin but strong)
-Sewing needle
-Tweezers
1). first, start by heating up the glass with the blow dryer until the device is slightly hot. Make sure the screen on the onkyo DP-x1 doesn't get too hot, or it will damage the screen PERMANENTLY.
2). once the glass is slightly hot, run your guitar pick or scalpel starting at the bottom of the screen and continue along the whole device. (* IMPORTANT* : be careful on how much of the scalpel/guitar pick you put into the device. you might risk cutting ribbon wires which would be very upsetting to cut or ruin by accident. the ribbon wires are located at the top right of the device*)
3). once the screen and glass assembly is lifted, there are 2 ribbon wires that are located at the top right of the device. tilt the screen upwards towards the right to expose the ribbon wires.
4). you will see that there are tabs that lift up where the ribbon wires are fastened into. lift the Beige tabs to release the wire. i would use the guitar pick or a piece of long flat plastic to pry the tab up.
5). once the tabs are loose, gently push the 2 ribbon wires out of the tab lock sockets. this will completely release the screen. set the screen down on a non-static surface.
6). once the screen is gone, you will see a metal shielding plate which isolates the circuit boards from the screen, you will need to un-do the 6 screws that hold down the large metal shielding.
7). once the shielding is un-screwed from the housing, you will need to remove a piece of isolating tape that goes from the large metal shielding to another ribbon cable that will be close to the bottom of the device. the color of this tape is silver.
8). after the shielding is removed from the device, you will see 2 circuit boards in the device; the left circuit board is the one we want to look at. you will see the ribbon cable we removed the tape from earlier. you will have to remove it from the board, it has a piece of black security tape on it, that needs to be removed so that the black tab can be lifted to release the ribbon cable. that cable acts as the bridge from one board to the other. it is critical that the ribbon is not damaged, be extremely careful!
9). there is a microphone at the bottom of the device on the left side. it is the tiny braided red and black wire with a plug that is plugged into a socket. you want to remove that plug by gently wiggling the plug from left to right to shimmy the plug out.
10). you will see two other philips head screws that need to be removed; one at the top right near the headphone jacks and the other at the bottom left. these screws are easily spotted, as they are the only ones highlighted by a copper ring.
11). once that is done, the circuit board can be removed by elevating the bottom portion of the circuit board and removing it from the device with caution. *there are a series of capacitors under the board, DO NOT DAMAGE those or the device will no longer send or produce audio signal*
12). now you are at the headphone jack, there are a few things to analyze; check to see that the 3.5mm headphone jack is straight, and look at the jack to see if any metal is sticking out of it. this is easy to see since there is a small white outline which the jack should be situated within, if it is not, that can be re-aligned by adding a thin piece of plastic to correct the crooked position. the thin plastic piece can be added between the circuit board and the socket housing. add crazy glue to secure the piece of plastic in place.
13). once you have finished re-aligning the socket, there are 2 tabs that need to be re-positioned in the 3.5mm jack. you will see the tabs when you turn the circuit board around . the tabs are on the same side as the capacitors on the board. The second tab is the one that is closest to the metal plate on the 3.5mm jack. that is the tab creating the issue of the headphones disconnecting every so often. the process is to bend the tab out from is resting position to repair the lack of tension on this tab. since the device is opened up, you might as well repair both of them to restore the 3.5mm jack's ability to connect to the headphones appropriately.
14). now, take the sewing needle and put (firm but gentle) force on the one of the tabs to repair the lack of tension. *use the desk light to keep an eye on what is happening inside the jack to see how much the metal tabs are being bent. if the tabs are over bent, there could be a physical problem with the jack. it is remedied by using the sewing needle to bend the metal tabs as close as you can towards the wall of the 3.5mm jack. bending the tabs might damage/break the metal tabs , so be careful when doing this*
15). insert your headphone plug to ensure that you have put the correct amount of tension or "bend" to the two inner contacts in the jack. *if the tabs were over-bent, the plug might bind on one of these tabs inside the jack. the easiest way to fix this is to insert a headphone plug, see which tab is binding and move the tab into its own channel. the sewing needle will come in handy here for manipulating the tabs inside the jack*
16). now that the jack was repaired now you can re-assemble the device! read the instructions of the guide in ascending order for re-assembly. *Note: you will need to re-apply some Smartphone glass glue to replace the old glue that was on the device screen.*
17). after the device is closed up, take a piece of solid epoxy and roll it to a very thin strand to fit in the area where the large gap is for the 3.5mm headphone jack. give the epoxy time to set so that the epoxy can harden up and finish the job. this will conclude the guide to repairing the 3.5mm headphone jack.
i will try to add photos, but this forum is not letting me since i am considered i guest i suppose. hopefully you can re-use your expensive music player. i hope this guide was helpful to you and leave me any suggestions or concerns regarding my guide. or about the device
in this fix, i noticed that even the most expensive devices can have major flaws. i have heard of problems with the 2.5mm jack, but i have not used mine so i don't have a bad experience with it yet. there is a fundamental flaw with both the jacks considering that the are DIRECTLY SOLDERED to the circuit board which is archaic in terms of design. most smart devices that have a compact style build usually have the 3.5mm jack that has contact points that are NOT SOLDERED to the board, but have contact points on the jack that touch 2 or more points on the phone's/smart device's circuit board (also know as the logic board). my guide is just here to tell you that even fundamental flaws can be corrected by delicate work and patients. anyone will tell you that they hate loosing a lot of money on something that did not last as long as it should have.
P.S. if someone could help me post pictures, i will do this imediately.
