Hamlap
100+ Head-Fier
A quick question: So the Onkyo DP-X1 does play Tidal MQA and does it offline? Is it still a good player nowadays for this?
Last edited:
ONKYO DP-X1 | Dual Sabre Dacs | Balanced | Sabre BTL Amp | MQA | DSD 256 | Android 5 |
- Thread starter T.R.A.N.C.E.
- Start date
About to buy used pioneer XDP300r/DPX1A. What's the latest Android version on this DAP? Are there any mod of higher Android version?
Planning to buy this because of the Snapdragon 801, I think it's better compared to ibasso dx160 with Android 4XX series.
And last, Is this dap can be used as external DAC/amp?
Thanks
Planning to buy this because of the Snapdragon 801, I think it's better compared to ibasso dx160 with Android 4XX series.
And last, Is this dap can be used as external DAC/amp?
Thanks
TokyoEvilBird
New Head-Fier
About to buy used pioneer XDP300r/DPX1A. What's the latest Android version on this DAP? Are there any mod of higher Android version?
Planning to buy this because of the Snapdragon 801, I think it's better compared to ibasso dx160 with Android 4XX series.
And last, Is this dap can be used as external DAC/amp?
Thanks
Saw your other post in the xdp300r. Really depends on what is your use-case and the cost of the 2nd hand.
For balanced, it should be good value as I have been using mine to power a HD6xx with enough punch and clarity.
For single-ended, there are more choices now at the same price point as a 2nd hand DPX1a.
Whether you need the latest Android, again depends on what is your use case. Using the built-in player and Spotify is perfectly fine. Using UAPP and Tidal will use a lot of battery which will depend on the state of the battery of the 2nd hand.
In the end, it will depend too on your other components i.e. are you using iem's or headphones and are you using it at home or for mobility. Best to try it out (if you can).
When the Onkyo/Pioneer came out, there was not a lot of choices (I remember expensive AK's and other DAP's with their own linux-based OS's, no streaming). Nowdays you have a lot more choices.
DBaldock9
Headphoneus Supremus
About to buy used pioneer XDP300r/DPX1A. What's the latest Android version on this DAP? Are there any mod of higher Android version?
Planning to buy this because of the Snapdragon 801, I think it's better compared to ibasso dx160 with Android 4XX series.
And last, Is this dap can be used as external DAC/amp?
Thanks
The DP-X1 runs Android 5.1.1 Lollipop, even when rooted.
They work as good DAPs, but they don't operate as USB DACs.
Hamlap
100+ Head-Fier
Why do these two use a lot more battery then Spotify?
TokyoEvilBird
New Head-Fier
I should be more clear: You can use Spotify off-line and turn on stand alone mode.
Tidal offline and turning on stand alone mode is similar battery use as Spotify offline.
With UAPP + Tidal, you need to be online all the time, which consumes a lot of battery.
I hope this clarify the statement.
Hamlap
100+ Head-Fier
Ah right, I understand now! Thanks! For me: most of the time I would be using Tidal in offline mode I guess. But I'm still not sure what to get for my Oppo PM-3. This or just a usb dac/amp...
TokyoEvilBird
New Head-Fier
Do you have the balanced cable for the Oppo? If not, there are other choices out there for single ended. I am not familiar with the Oppo so I would not be able to recommend what would be a good pair.
Hamlap
100+ Head-Fier
Not yet. Depends on which source or dac/amp I going to get...
Pete7
Headphoneus Supremus
I realize this post is a year old, but I could use help replacing the battery. I bought one on AliExpress, just need help with removing the screen safely. On a related note, I also bought a replacement battery for the Opus 1 and had success replacing it.
What I did was I went by some random handphone repair store where they used a heat gun and suction to pull the screen off. After that I did the rest but the most difficult part is when you pull the battery that is stuck on the housing by a double sided tape. I got some guide from this link though I cant understand the language used. Hope this helps.
Last edited:
Pete7
Headphoneus Supremus
Thanks. I was trying to heat the screen with a blow dryer, but trying to pry it myself I would have cracked it, so I stopped. I'll check with my local repair guy.
scottm18
500+ Head-Fier
- Joined
- Dec 27, 2016
- Posts
- 592
- Likes
- 534
Looking for a replacement for my Calyx M, which has no online capability. Unfortunately, I'm using nearly 100% DSD with my local files and I believe this converts all DSD to PCM (no native HP playback) which is a No-No. Is that still the case even after all the firmware options available? Same if using uapp?
Re Onkyo dpx1A repairs
This March i also took the chance to open my Onkyo to see if I could repair my balanced headphone output. Stereo worked only when i torqued the cable in a certain direction, so I hoped it could be fixed by resoldering.
I found the same (Vietnamese?) video which gave me confidence. But I worried about the screen removal. I had seen a guy in Hong Kong open my iphone (5s) in 15 seconds and someone in California do the same to an ipod. Neither used a suction cup, both used half a razor blade. So there was a certain “Shouldn’t I be able to do this” macho involved. I bought a cheap heat gun on aliexpress, watched a few more opening phone videos on YouTube and went for it.
Once i had warmed up the screen (~30”) I used a super thin flat screw driver to find a spot where the glass was willing to let me wedge it up a bit. I was cautious and this first step was hard. It took a minute or three of searching around the edge until i really could dig in and pry it up. (I also had an old razor blade but was uncomfortable using it). Once started, I used one of those plastic screen wedge tools to hold it open and a second one to slide bit by bit around freeing the screen from the glue. It wasn’t hard, just required attention and courage.
This video really helped deal with the cables connecting the screen and the player mother board. These are delicate ribbon connectors which enter the board in two tiny cable locks which you must carefully flip open. This requires a very small pincer and real delicacy as these miniature parts are fragile! I see this as the bigest problem if/when i have to open the Onkyo again, so be careful especially when replacing the screen. It’s not clear how many times these ribbons can be reseated befor the socket is destroyed! Maybe a little overstated, but just a warning that this is the weakest link. All you can do to the screen is scratch it up a bit.
There are lots of screws to remove to expose the battery or in my case the headphone connectors , but no problems here. I fixed my balanced out problem by reheating the solder joints with a small tip low power soldering iron, and a tiny bit of new solder. Flux might have been enough, but I didnt have any.
If you have patience and some experience with soldering, eg. making cables, I would give it a try. I didn’t put in a new battery, mine is still fine after a year or so, so I’ll probably be back inside next year.
Still love this Onkyo. Use it to listen to my mixes with ety 4s, Blon03, revonext2 and sennheiser hd600 (the latter via a Sony dac/amp). Just took a while to realize you have to use “Low” settings with low impedance inears They sound so much better on low2. The clue was the noise problem listening to streaming services like Spotify. Low settings fixed the high noise floor. I was too used to needing extra power for the highZ Etymotics, Bayers and Sennheisers. Think of this setting not as high/low “gain”, but high/low “impedance”.
This March i also took the chance to open my Onkyo to see if I could repair my balanced headphone output. Stereo worked only when i torqued the cable in a certain direction, so I hoped it could be fixed by resoldering.
I found the same (Vietnamese?) video which gave me confidence. But I worried about the screen removal. I had seen a guy in Hong Kong open my iphone (5s) in 15 seconds and someone in California do the same to an ipod. Neither used a suction cup, both used half a razor blade. So there was a certain “Shouldn’t I be able to do this” macho involved. I bought a cheap heat gun on aliexpress, watched a few more opening phone videos on YouTube and went for it.
Once i had warmed up the screen (~30”) I used a super thin flat screw driver to find a spot where the glass was willing to let me wedge it up a bit. I was cautious and this first step was hard. It took a minute or three of searching around the edge until i really could dig in and pry it up. (I also had an old razor blade but was uncomfortable using it). Once started, I used one of those plastic screen wedge tools to hold it open and a second one to slide bit by bit around freeing the screen from the glue. It wasn’t hard, just required attention and courage.
This video really helped deal with the cables connecting the screen and the player mother board. These are delicate ribbon connectors which enter the board in two tiny cable locks which you must carefully flip open. This requires a very small pincer and real delicacy as these miniature parts are fragile! I see this as the bigest problem if/when i have to open the Onkyo again, so be careful especially when replacing the screen. It’s not clear how many times these ribbons can be reseated befor the socket is destroyed! Maybe a little overstated, but just a warning that this is the weakest link. All you can do to the screen is scratch it up a bit.
There are lots of screws to remove to expose the battery or in my case the headphone connectors , but no problems here. I fixed my balanced out problem by reheating the solder joints with a small tip low power soldering iron, and a tiny bit of new solder. Flux might have been enough, but I didnt have any.
If you have patience and some experience with soldering, eg. making cables, I would give it a try. I didn’t put in a new battery, mine is still fine after a year or so, so I’ll probably be back inside next year.
Still love this Onkyo. Use it to listen to my mixes with ety 4s, Blon03, revonext2 and sennheiser hd600 (the latter via a Sony dac/amp). Just took a while to realize you have to use “Low” settings with low impedance inears They sound so much better on low2. The clue was the noise problem listening to streaming services like Spotify. Low settings fixed the high noise floor. I was too used to needing extra power for the highZ Etymotics, Bayers and Sennheisers. Think of this setting not as high/low “gain”, but high/low “impedance”.
Users who are viewing this thread
