newbie cmoy....boy, if I can do it......
Feb 28, 2006 at 8:10 PM Thread Starter Post #1 of 13

flashbackk

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Feb 28, 2006 at 9:48 PM Post #2 of 13

jl123

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Well now you're just showing off...
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Looks good.
 
Feb 28, 2006 at 10:18 PM Post #3 of 13

firefox360

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I'm going to be building a CMoy during the March Break from school. Just received the parts from Digi-Key & TI today. Now I just need to buy the parts from The Source CC (RadioShack) & get the power switch from the local electronics store. I'm building mine with the TLE2426 voltage divider, since it seems to be worthwhile for a part costing not much more than $1.50 (CDN). I'm still not sure, whether or not if I should add a DC jack to power the amp via wall power at home.

Hopefully my build will go smoothly without too much problems
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Mar 1, 2006 at 2:14 AM Post #4 of 13

flashbackk

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Quote:

Originally Posted by firefox360
Hopefully my build will go smoothly without too much problems
tongue.gif




I hope you have better luck than I do...... I did everything wrong that I possibly could do wrong.......a great way to learn , I guess. These things are worse than sudokus.

..and thanks for the compliment jl.
 
Mar 1, 2006 at 4:00 AM Post #5 of 13

Polaris111688

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I love having an electronics lab in my school. I can etch boards instead of using the Radioshack perf boards. First CMoy I built was in school.
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Mar 1, 2006 at 9:03 PM Post #6 of 13

firefox360

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Quote:

Originally Posted by flashbackk
I hope you have better luck than I do...... I did everything wrong that I possibly could do wrong.......a great way to learn , I guess. These things are worse than sudokus.

..and thanks for the compliment jl.



Thanks! And out of curiosity, what happened to your build exactly? Messed up the protoboard? Sourced the wrong components? Shorted the circuit? Killed the OP-AMP? Leaked the capacitors? Made your CMoy into a miniature tin can rocket!?!?

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Mar 2, 2006 at 2:09 AM Post #7 of 13

flashbackk

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As I said this was my third one. It actually went pretty smoothly. I had no protoboard templet to follow like I had with Tangents great walkthrough, so I had to come up with something with 2 single op-amps and it ended up working, after a change or two. I am no EE and my design cannot stand much scrutiny, but it worked.
I then added the meier modified crossfeed circuit that I had been doodeling with for a long time. Plus, I had to learn to solder all over again.
I am old (55) and work in GM truck plant ( paint dept )..... I can paint a heck of a race stripe on the can, but my poor fingers are all burnt up.
Besides the cold joints, burning most of the insulation off the wire, etc,etc,,,,the dumbest thing I did was get so frustrated at my first amp ( only one channel would work ), that I ripped it apart ruining the opamp only to realize that the only thing wrong was that the r5 jumper on the right channel had fallen out.
The dumbest thing I did on my second build (tle and 2 x9v's) was bring it into work to shrink the heatshrink with heatgun I have here at work. I had the whole thing smoking. All the wiring is shiney and melted together ......still works tho.....
Anyway thanks to Cmoy and Tangent for the introduction. I have a great respect for the minds on here. The designs, the soldering (some of it is a work of art) and mostly the great sound that I am getting back into lately and really enjoying.
Good luck and good listening.
 
Mar 2, 2006 at 2:52 AM Post #8 of 13

firefox360

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Ouch! Gotta becareful with those heat guns. From what I've read seems like they could be deemed as fire hazards. Now that I think of it, would a hair blow dryer be good enough for heatshrink?
 
Mar 2, 2006 at 8:22 AM Post #9 of 13

diredesire

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Quote:

Originally Posted by firefox360
Ouch! Gotta becareful with those heat guns. From what I've read seems like they could be deemed as fire hazards. Now that I think of it, would a hair blow dryer be good enough for heatshrink?


depends on the output of your hair dryer. It typically will work, but it will take a while.
 
Mar 3, 2006 at 9:37 AM Post #10 of 13

Eric1285

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I just use a bic lighter to shrink heatshrink. Works better than anything else I've tried.
 
Mar 3, 2006 at 12:28 PM Post #11 of 13

tomb

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flashbackk,

I feel your age and your fingers. This is another old fart that finished my first CMoy last week - thanks to Tangent's website as well. It doesn't sound like my experience was as bad as yours, but I had to cut and re-solder jumper wires about a dozen times. Some of the Shack board pads were so fried I was soldering wires together through an open hole - or on top of an open hole, rather. I broke almost all of the tabs off of the Panasonic pot before I was done. I would take a picture, but you can't see anything because there's so much wire stuffed into the can.

The nice thing, though, was that it worked and sounded great right from the start!

The size of this whole thing just shocked me. That's why I had so much wire - I thought 2 or 3 inches was conservative! I couldn't see a thing to do this work until I took my glasses off (very nearsighted). A brand-new Hakko soldering iron from Frys' helped a lot. For the heat shrink tubing, I used a Monokote heat shrink gun from RC model planes. It's only slightly hotter than a hair dryer and works great.

I'm looking forward to building more, and thinking about Amb/Morsel's new Mini3 as a first PCB project, too.
 
Mar 4, 2006 at 2:15 AM Post #12 of 13

Twombly

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Eric1285
I just use a bic lighter to shrink heatshrink. Works better than anything else I've tried.


Not the safest method, I should think.
tongue.gif


Although I did use a soldering iron to heatshrink once, the shrink looked really nasty afterwards.
 
Mar 4, 2006 at 5:02 AM Post #13 of 13

The_Duke_Of_Eli

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Wouldn't use anything but hairdryer or heatgun for shrink-warp. If you use a bic-lighter that's crazy. May turn out bad. I had an old heatgun, they're not THAT hard to come by....
 

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