newbie armed with PortaCorda, soldering iron and PSU.. help needed
Oct 25, 2002 at 2:14 PM Thread Starter Post #1 of 9

taoster

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help required!

my porta corda battery clip broke yesterday.
rather than replacing it with anotheri am thinking of adding a power socket for my psu to go in with when im at work.

My question is, what gate/diode thingy would i need to put in the diagram attached to allow the 23v psu to override the 9v when its on otherwise use the 9v power supply.

i hope i am making sense?!
 
Oct 25, 2002 at 5:30 PM Post #2 of 9
None, really - unless you wanted to...

You need a power jack that has a NC (normally closed) switch built-in. Radio Shack sells them for $2.

You wire the black lead from the battery to one leg of the switch, another black lead from the other leg of the switch to the place on the circuit board the black lead used to go. Then the red wire goes to the centerpin leg of the jack AND off to the board.

No PSU plugged in = switch is closed and power comes from the battery.
PSU plugged in = switch is open and power comes from the PSU.

ok,
erix
 
Oct 26, 2002 at 1:41 AM Post #3 of 9
Quote:

Originally posted by erix
None, really - unless you wanted to...

You need a power jack that has a NC (normally closed) switch built-in. Radio Shack sells them for $2.

You wire the black lead from the battery to one leg of the switch, another black lead from the other leg of the switch to the place on the circuit board the black lead used to go. Then the red wire goes to the centerpin leg of the jack AND off to the board.

No PSU plugged in = switch is closed and power comes from the battery.
PSU plugged in = switch is open and power comes from the PSU.

ok,
erix


You mean there are switches like that? Wow.. I've never seen such switches being sold here before.
 
Oct 26, 2002 at 2:57 AM Post #4 of 9
Quote:

Originally posted by erix
None, really - unless you wanted to...

You need a power jack that has a NC (normally closed) switch built-in. Radio Shack sells them for $2.

You wire the black lead from the battery to one leg of the switch, another black lead from the other leg of the switch to the place on the circuit board the black lead used to go. Then the red wire goes to the centerpin leg of the jack AND off to the board.

No PSU plugged in = switch is closed and power comes from the battery.
PSU plugged in = switch is open and power comes from the PSU.

ok,
erix


i bought a 2.1mm power socket that has three pins on the back..
could that be it?
 
Oct 26, 2002 at 3:02 AM Post #5 of 9
Quote:

Originally posted by taoster
i bought a 2.1mm power socket that has three pins on the back..
could that be it?


Yup!

There should be a diagram showing the connections on the package....

ok,
erix
 
Oct 26, 2002 at 3:50 AM Post #6 of 9
what package?! haha

thanks erix.. i dont have a multimeter so i might try it out on my dog instead.

(only joking folks)
 
Oct 26, 2002 at 4:14 AM Post #7 of 9
Quote:

i dont have a multimeter so i might try it out on my dog instead. (only joking folks)


Good thing! I was about to report you to PETA.
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Oct 26, 2002 at 4:41 AM Post #8 of 9
If you got it at the Shack, there is a diagram on the back of the package. the jack should have 3 solder lugs, orient the jack so the lugs are arranged in an upside down "U."

The lug on the left is to the center pin, this will go to the postive pad on the circuit board and to the positive battery lead.

The lug across the top is connected to the negative pad on the circuit board.

The lug on the right (this is the normally closed switch) is connected to the negative battery lead.

When there is no plug inserted, the voltage from the batter will flow through the jack to the board. When there is a plug inserted, the switch opens which disengages the battery and allows voltage from the wall wart to flow to the board, but not the battery.

Hope that helps a bit.
 
Oct 27, 2002 at 5:38 AM Post #9 of 9
thank you all for responding to dumb newbie questions, once again!

I got out the soldering iron and my pet dog Teddy today. Turns out Teddy was insusceptible to high voltage DC currents and managed to sleep right through various voltage tests, much to my annoyance. Luckily, my little cousin was nearby. He proved to be more susceptible and was a very effective and willing (small bribe required) human multimeter.
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Now it’s all done and I am very excited with the result. It’s got a little amateurish feel as there is a small visible gap and it’s not quite up to the circuitry achievement of the DIY here. None the less, here's the pic of the finished socket upgrade.
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Thanks again!

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