New TOL A&K DAP : the AK Ultima SP1000
Jul 20, 2017 at 9:39 AM Post #886 of 9,406
Like anything else you buy from a company, there is always the risk that it will bring out a newer/better/upgraded model sooner or later. Computer companies are a good example of this. It's not a matter of fair, simply marketing. I'm sure you could sell your 380SS for a decent price and upgrade.
Well said, however i have decided to go with the Tera Player.
1 player only, made properly since 2011, The Tera Player.
What i care the most is size and sound quality. I have been using mine since 2013 nearly daily and love it.
I would have lots of regrets if i bought SP1000 and six months later they released another better.
Note : best audio purchase i have ever made.
 
Last edited:
Jul 20, 2017 at 10:01 AM Post #887 of 9,406
What is what ? You need some lesson about electrical and conductivity ? Wikipedia it up :). Wm1z has thicker copper body than SP1000 (thicker for a reason). Someone mentioned about the Sp1000 has better form. To me bulky and thickness is acceptable if it comes with good quality and performances. Sizes does matter. There is no need to get a super thin DAP then stack up an amp on it. Have a properly done all in one device like KANN is more desirable. Very interesting to see the comparison between sp1000 copper and Wm1z.
 
Last edited:
Jul 20, 2017 at 10:16 AM Post #888 of 9,406
Not to quibble here, as I am not an electrical engineer, but I am a teacher, and the first thing I and other educators teach our students is to NEVER quote Wikipedia as a source. The manner in which Wikipedia works does not lend itself to credibility, as any information there can be posted/reposted/changed/updated by anyone who has access to the site. That is not to say that ANY information on Wikipedia is incorrect, but it is not appropriate source material in the scholastic world. There are plenty of other places on the Web to get information about various subjects that are credible, have fact checkers, and have standing.
 
Jul 20, 2017 at 10:33 AM Post #889 of 9,406
Not to quibble here, as I am not an electrical engineer, but I am a teacher, and the first thing I and other educators teach our students is to NEVER quote Wikipedia as a source. The manner in which Wikipedia works does not lend itself to credibility, as any information there can be posted/reposted/changed/updated by anyone who has access to the site. That is not to say that ANY information on Wikipedia is incorrect, but it is not appropriate source material in the scholastic world. There are plenty of other places on the Web to get information about various subjects that are credible, have fact checkers, and have standing.

I understand where you come from, and while I don't claim of myself being in any profession, I do understand that teachers do not like Wikipedia as a source. However, I can tell you that electrical conductivity and grounding purposes are correctly stated on Wikipedia, period. I am not here to give any lesson, and I do understand what I am saying while having someone to quote me then say "what"....he clearly needs to educate himself more before he should say such things. Especially when I stated something so simple as a fact that thicker and larger wires have better conductivity.
 
Last edited:
Jul 20, 2017 at 10:40 AM Post #890 of 9,406
I'm not arguing (as I stated) that the information is or is not correct, I am suggesting that Wikipedi-ing information is not particularly credible. Two different things.
 
Jul 20, 2017 at 10:43 AM Post #891 of 9,406
What is what ? You need some lesson about electrical and conductivity ? Wikipedia it up :). Wm1z has thicker copper body than SP1000 (thicker for a reason). Someone mentioned about the Sp1000 has better form. To me bulky and thickness is acceptable if it comes with good quality and performances. Sizes does matter. There is no need to get a super thin DAP then stack up an amp on it. Have a properly done all in one device like KANN is more desirable. Very interesting to see the comparison between sp1000 copper and Wm1z.
When you talk about the 1Z you saying it in balance ? Cause SE its weak and too warm and hyped.
 
Jul 20, 2017 at 10:44 AM Post #892 of 9,406
I'm not arguing (as I stated) that the information is or is not correct, I am suggesting that Wikipedi-ing information is not particularly credible. Two different things.
Perhap you can point him to somewhere more credible to check on electricivity and conductivity. I have no problem with them.

My point is that both of the WM1Z and SP1000 Copper have a special grounding, and that is Copper chassis. The materials itself is special as it electrically more conductive. This materials were seen on Zx2 as an inner chassis and copper 380 as a whole chassis and then WM1z, now SP1k Copper. However, someone mentioned the thickness, and I simply stated that thickness plays a role too, on technical level.
 
Jul 20, 2017 at 11:03 AM Post #894 of 9,406
"Perhap you can point him to somewhere more credible to check on electricivity and conductivity"

The fun of the internet is in the search.

And to your point re conductivity, I happen to love my AK240 Stainless Steel and am doing my due diligence re the Sp1000SS prior to purchasing one.
 
Jul 20, 2017 at 11:33 AM Post #895 of 9,406
.... There is no need to get a super thin DAP then stack up an amp on it.

could not agree more :ksc75smile: . This is why I have.... SP1000 + SHURE KSE1500 with it's Amp :deadhorse:
 
Jul 20, 2017 at 4:24 PM Post #896 of 9,406
Which model to order : SP1000 Copper or SP1000 SS ?
I'm in a real dilemma.
I don't like oxydation on the copper, but I'm thinking that the copper will bring something special comparing to SS version.
On the other side, SS version is stable, no problem of oxydation, and tarnish.
Which one to chose ?
thanks for your contribution.
sam
 
Jul 20, 2017 at 4:32 PM Post #897 of 9,406
Which model to order : SP1000 Copper or SP1000 SS ?
I'm in a real dilemma.
I don't like oxydation on the copper, but I'm thinking that the copper will bring something special comparing to SS version.
On the other side, SS version is stable, no problem of oxydation, and tarnish.
Which one to chose ?
thanks for your contribution.
sam

You will have to audition them both to decide. The differences could be ver pronounced or negligible, it will heavily be dependent on your experiences and what you pairs it with :). If you are worried about Copper being tarnished, then you may need to look into waxing it with Liquid Polymer stuff from car wash. Some of them after waxing and cure under the sun can last for a year on cars...let alone on a DAP.
 
Jul 20, 2017 at 4:47 PM Post #898 of 9,406
You will have to audition them both to decide. The differences could be ver pronounced or negligible, it will heavily be dependent on your experiences and what you pairs it with :). If you are worried about Copper being tarnished, then you may need to look into waxing it with Liquid Polymer stuff from car wash. Some of them after waxing and cure under the sun can last for a year on cars...let alone on a DAP.
Could you please give me a link to find that product (Liquid Polymer stuff) for cleaning ? if the product doesn't make the copper shining and lose its initial color...
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top